Fiebing's Leathersheen.

[Chavez]

Hi!

I could find surprisingly little info about fiebing's leathersheen finish on this forum, so I thought I'd ask a question.

I've recently tried some leather sheen on a bookmarker and I was rather pleased with the results. Leathersheen did darken the leather a lot (more than I've seen with other finishes), makign my light brown look like dark brown, but it gave a very nice look and feel to the leather and it seems to be reasonably water resistant. It doesn't have the plastic effect of badly applied resolene (I still lack consistency with it) and it doesn't seem to crack when flexed.

Does anyone use this finish on a regular basis? Are there any problems with it apart from it darkening leather? Any reasons for not using it? I'm thinking of using it on a few bigger projects but don't want to ruin them in case leathersheen's got some problems that didn't show up on my first test.

Any comments are welcome.

Thanks!

[Josiah]

I have used it on alot of mine. The only caution is to put it on with a brush and don't rub it til it is dry or it pulls some color out. I started out using a sponge and it pulled some of the antiquing out.

[katsass]

Hi!

I could find surprisingly little info about fiebing's leathersheen finish on this forum, so I thought I'd ask a question.

I've recently tried some leather sheen on a bookmarker and I was rather pleased with the results. Leathersheen did darken the leather a lot (more than I've seen with other finishes), makign my light brown look like dark brown, but it gave a very nice look and feel to the leather and it seems to be reasonably water resistant. It doesn't have the plastic effect of badly applied resolene (I still lack consistency with it) and it doesn't seem to crack when flexed.

Does anyone use this finish on a regular basis? Are there any problems with it apart from it darkening leather? Any reasons for not using it? I'm thinking of using it on a few bigger projects but don't want to ruin them in case leathersheen's got some problems that didn't show up on my first test.

Any comments are welcome.

Thanks!

Chavez, Years ago (40 at least) I used nothing but Tandy's 'Neat Sheen', then one day, finding that I had either run out of it, or left the top off, or some other dumb-assed trick (I don't quite remember now) I had to go in search of an alternative. I live out in a desert area, a good 40 miles away from the closest store that could supply the stuff, and I REALLY didn't want to make that trip for a 4oz, $5.00 bottle of the goop. Ma Kat had been cleaning up the joint and had used 'Mop and Glow' on the kitchen floor. While squirting the stuff out of the bottle, I noticed that it looked a lot like the Neat Sheen. Reading the contents and doing a bit of research, I found that Neat Sheen and Mop and Glow are (were) almost identical. I experimented and found that a 50/50 mix of M&G and water produced the same finish as the Neat Sheen. I swiped her jug of Mop and Glow and have used the stuff as a finish on my holsters ever since. Over the years I have read the data sheet on Fiebing's 'sheen' stuff, Resolene, and any other 'sheen' type product I ran across --- all are basically the same --- an acrylic finish product. I find that a quart of Mop and Glow at around $7 to $8 ( which will produce a half gallon of finish) is one hell of a lot more economical than any of the 'dedicated' acrylic leather finishes --- and produces the same result. I use an airbrush to 'mist' on a light coat, which on warm leather penetrates and dries almost immediately, and follow a little later with a second light coat. When dry I'll usually rub in a little Kiwi neutral polish and buff to a mellow shine. The stuff can be wiped on with a rag dampened with the stuff, sprayed with an airbrush and even an old Windex pump sprayer will do the job. If a drip appears, just wipe with a rag or even your finger. Streaking is almost impossible. You might give it a go, and if you don't find it to your liking, well, your significant other has someting to do the floor with. As in all such products, too much of an application ends up just plain nasty, so moderation is always best. Here's a pic of two identical holsters -- one finished as I describe and one ready to finish. Hope this helps --- and saves you a dollar or two. Mike

Edited April 8, 2012 by katsass

[Chavez]

Thanks Katsass,

I've read a lot about mop&glo here but they don't sell it in the UK and shipping it from the US would cost more than any of the fiebing's finishes. I guess one day I'll just order a bottle of mop&glo and see what its like=)) In the meantime I'm trying out anything I can get my hands on=)

I also can't seem to find a uk seller of bag kote, montana pitch & sno-seal which are the other favourites on this forum =)

PS Very nice holsters by the way!

[Northmount]

1333895010[/url]' post='242878']

Thanks Katsass,

I've read a lot about mop&glo here but they don't sell it in the UK and shipping it from the US would cost more than any of the fiebing's finishes.

You should take a look and see what UK acrylic floor treatments are available in your local store. I'm sure you will find similar stuff.

CTG

[katsass]

Chavez, Sorry that I failed to notice that you reside in the U.K. Had I been a bit more observant, I would have suggested just what northmount suggested. Also, thanks for the compliment. Mike

Edited April 8, 2012 by katsass

[Chavez]

I have used it on alot of mine. The only caution is to put it on with a brush and don't rub it til it is dry or it pulls some color out. I started out using a sponge and it pulled some of the antiquing out.

Do you brush it on straight from the bottle or do you cut it with water? I have the same problem with leather balm & atom wax - if applied by sponge it lifts the dye up, mixes with it and then rubbs off like hell!

[Josiah]

Yeah. straight from the bottle and try to brush as little as possible. I dab it on kinda heavy and then don't touch it til dry. you will see it lifting the stain a little but it seems to get absorbed back in as it drys.

Do you brush it on straight from the bottle or do you cut it with water? I have the same problem with leather balm & atom wax - if applied by sponge it lifts the dye up, mixes with it and then rubbs off like hell!

[Chavez]

Thanks!

[ClaireAshton]

When I was in Police Training College in the UK we had to have very shiny shoes. We used to 'bull' them (shoe polish rubbed constantly with water) until an ex squaddie (Army) put us onto a floor polish liquid ....... Grrr! can't remember the name now (will research)

[gary]

'Dual', which I haven't seen for years but gets a blue-ish tinge when wet or 'Seel'. Use Seel straight from the can, apply with a cotton wool ball, don't use much and don't overwork it. A couple of thin coats being better than one thick one. I think it's a bit like Resolene so may have some drawbacks.

[fatbob1945]

Where are you finding Mop and Glo now days? Please reply to e-mail----fxdf96@gmail.com

Hi!

I could find surprisingly little info about fiebing's leathersheen finish on this forum, so I thought I'd ask a question.

I've recently tried some leather sheen on a bookmarker and I was rather pleased with the results. Leathersheen did darken the leather a lot (more than I've seen with other finishes), makign my light brown look like dark brown, but it gave a very nice look and feel to the leather and it seems to be reasonably water resistant. It doesn't have the plastic effect of badly applied resolene (I still lack consistency with it) and it doesn't seem to crack when flexed.

Does anyone use this finish on a regular basis? Are there any problems with it apart from it darkening leather? Any reasons for not using it? I'm thinking of using it on a few bigger projects but don't want to ruin them in case leathersheen's got some problems that didn't show up on my first test.

Any comments are welcome.

Thanks!




Chavez, Years ago (40 at least) I used nothing but Tandy's 'Neat Sheen', then one day, finding that I had either run out of it, or left the top off, or some other dumb-assed trick (I don't quite remember now) I had to go in search of an alternative. I live out in a desert area, a good 40 miles away from the closest store that could supply the stuff, and I REALLY didn't want to make that trip for a 4oz, $5.00 bottle of the goop. Ma Kat had been cleaning up the joint and had used 'Mop and Glow' on the kitchen floor. While squirting the stuff out of the bottle, I noticed that it looked a lot like the Neat Sheen. Reading the contents and doing a bit of research, I found that Neat Sheen and Mop and Glow are (were) almost identical. I experimented and found that a 50/50 mix of M&G and water produced the same finish as the Neat Sheen. I swiped her jug of Mop and Glow and have used the stuff as a finish on my holsters ever since. Over the years I have read the data sheet on Fiebing's 'sheen' stuff, Resolene, and any other 'sheen' type product I ran across --- all are basically the same --- an acrylic finish product. I find that a quart of Mop and Glow at around $7 to $8 ( which will produce a half gallon of finish) is one hell of a lot more economical than any of the 'dedicated' acrylic leather finishes --- and produces the same result. I use an airbrush to 'mist' on a light coat, which on warm leather penetrates and dries almost immediately, and follow a little later with a second light coat. When dry I'll usually rub in a little Kiwi neutral polish and buff to a mellow shine. The stuff can be wiped on with a rag dampened with the stuff, sprayed with an airbrush and even an old Windex pump sprayer will do the job. If a drip appears, just wipe with a rag or even your finger. Streaking is almost impossible. You might give it a go, and if you don't find it to your liking, well, your significant other has someting to do the floor with. As in all such products, too much of an application ends up just plain nasty, so moderation is always best. Here's a pic of two identical holsters -- one finished as I describe and one ready to finish. Hope this helps --- and saves you a dollar or two. Mike