Turning A Bag

[CowboyDan]

Some of the leather probably stretched while wet and pulling it around to turn inside out. Then it can't shrink back to flat anymore. Also dry slowly or stretched over a form to reduce distortion from drying. You may be able to smooth some of it by burnishing by hand or with a glass plate burnisher while drying, possibly several times as it dries slowly. I'm fairly sure most of the problem was it was stretched while wet. Minimize how wet you get the leather. The wetter it is, the more shrinkage you will see as it dries.

CTG

I don't know if you necessarily want to minimize how wet the leather is when turning it.

When I did a purse for my sister, I did all the cut-outs on the bench with the pieces flat, then stitched it inside-out. Then SOAKED it until it absolutely wouldn't take any more water. Then I took it out of the bucket and started turning it. Now the one I made had a lot of very intricate cuts that made for some extremely fragile 'threads' of leather, so I was being extraordinarily cautious as I turned it.

I think I found a round container of some sort and slid the (now turned right-side out) purse over it to dry. It wasn't a very tight fit, but I made sure it was sitting smoothly as it dried. I thought it turned out pretty well.

You can see the (now very worn) purse here; http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=39160

[Eve]

Thanks everyone for the great recommendation and information, I wouldn't find them on my books!

Next time I will try chrome tan or oil tan leathers instead of veg-tan leather, and I will soak it in the water until it wouldn't take in anymore before I turn it.

I have two more question - is there any book teach how to do sewn with the stitches on the outside with an inward curving gusset? Is this method for hand sew or machine?

Cheers all!

[Northmount]

1334982500[/url]' post='244581']

Thanks everyone for the great recommendation and information, I wouldn't find them on my books!

Next time I will try chrome tan or oil tan leathers instead of veg-tan leather, and I will soak it in the water until it wouldn't take in anymore before I turn it.

I have two more question - is there any book teach how to do sewn with the stitches on the outside with an inward curving gusset? Is this method for hand sew or machine?

Cheers all!

Just be aware that the wetter the leather is, the easier it is to stretch.

[Kustom]

Hi Eve,

This a good book to learn about gussets.

http://www.leathercourses.co.uk/the-leatherworking-handbook/

As well as the three Al Stohlman case making books.

Good luck,

Steve

Thanks everyone for the great recommendation and information, I wouldn't find them on my books!

Next time I will try chrome tan or oil tan leathers instead of veg-tan leather, and I will soak it in the water until it wouldn't take in anymore before I turn it.

I have two more question - is there any book teach how to do sewn with the stitches on the outside with an inward curving gusset? Is this method for hand sew or machine?

Cheers all!

[Andrew Chee]

Thanks everyone for the great recommendation and information, I wouldn't find them on my books!

Next time I will try chrome tan or oil tan leathers instead of veg-tan leather, and I will soak it in the water until it wouldn't take in anymore before I turn it.

I have two more question - is there any book teach how to do sewn with the stitches on the outside with an inward curving gusset? Is this method for hand sew or machine?

Cheers all!

You can still use Veg Tan leather. Generally speaking, if you use a thinner leather, it will be easier to turn. 4oz leather is pretty much as thick as you need for a purse. Maybe even thinner. I have some veg tan leather that are softer tempered (definitely not as soft as chrome tan) but they turn pretty easily without having to wet them.

Andrew

[Leatherimages]

I don't notice a welt. I think it would give the purse a line to fold at. And you can bone it to improve the fold even after turning.

The 4 oz. suggetion above is good, and chrome is certainly softer.

However if you wish to make a heavier veg tanned bag, you could go up to maybe 6-7oz., if you gouge a stitch line and use a welt.

And I'll affirm that drying over a form will always improve the look of a turned item. Also using a glass, or any kind of smooth "burnisher, will also help in shaping. I've got a cocobolo "paddle" that works wonders for shaping and moving leather around.

I think it's useful to mention that you don't have to be controled by the leather, Work with leathers that fit the bill for use, but also that you can in construction.

For example, It looks to me like this center section leather has a "patent" finish on it. Using it at the seam might have been part of the problem. I think there could be a difference in the flexiblity of the two different leathers at the seam as the veg side sections, the one not being as pliable as the other. Is that Calf?

FYI everyone, if you want to use a soft toolable leather for handbags (or other) try Wickett and Craigs Carving Leather, split 5-6 ounce (or your choice), milled. Milling bends all the straight fibers while tumbling in a large vat. When you open the box and lay your hand under the side of 'milled veg', it will feel as drapy as chap leather. And the texture of the belly and shoulder will excite you.

Good luck and remember, 'it ain't brain surgery, but a brain surgeon could do it'. You can, you've got the tools!

[Andrew Chee]

I don't notice a welt. I think it would give the purse a line to fold at. And you can bone it to improve the fold even after turning.

The 4 oz. suggetion above is good, and chrome is certainly softer.

However if you wish to make a heavier veg tanned bag, you could go up to maybe 6-7oz., if you gouge a stitch line and use a welt.

And I'll affirm that drying over a form will always improve the look of a turned item. Also using a glass, or any kind of smooth "burnisher, will also help in shaping. I've got a cocobolo "paddle" that works wonders for shaping and moving leather around.

I think it's useful to mention that you don't have to be controled by the leather, Work with leathers that fit the bill for use, but also that you can in construction.

For example, It looks to me like this center section leather has a "patent" finish on it. Using it at the seam might have been part of the problem. I think there could be a difference in the flexiblity of the two different leathers at the seam as the veg side sections, the one not being as pliable as the other. Is that Calf?

FYI everyone, if you want to use a soft toolable leather for handbags (or other) try Wickett and Craigs Carving Leather, split 5-6 ounce (or your choice), milled. Milling bends all the straight fibers while tumbling in a large vat. When you open the box and lay your hand under the side of 'milled veg', it will feel as drapy as chap leather. And the texture of the belly and shoulder will excite you.

Good luck and remember, 'it ain't brain surgery, but a brain surgeon could do it'. You can, you've got the tools!

Hm... I bought a side of W&C skirting leather split to 4oz and staked. I wanted it softer but I didn't want the grain pattern disturbed which heavy milling can do. I didn't know that W&C also milled the leather. Does the milling process change the look of the leather? I've seen some milled veg tan that was as soft as chrome tan leather but the milling gives the leather a very pebbly looking surface which I didn't like.

Andrew

[Leatherimages]

Andrew,

They do, and it does. That's the thing.

But you can still mount it on illurtration board for tooling, and get a nice effect.

However I'm curious about the staking. You imply it makes it softer?

Personally, I like the texture, and so have my customers.

Below is a project using the textured areas.

[Kustom]

Hi Andrew,

This is a sample piece of 4-5 oz milled bridle that Matt from W&C sent me. I don't consider it "pebbled".

Steve

[CowboyDan]

Well, it appears I have to eat a few of my words.

I just stumbled across my construction photos of the purse I made, and discovered how I supported the bag purse while it dried....

As you can see from the picture, my memory is what I forget with. The picture tells the truth.

My most sincere apologies to any who have been mislead by my faulty memory.

Now where did I put my glasses.........