electrathon Posted September 17, 2012 Report Posted September 17, 2012 The one on the left is correct. Aaron Quote
Members Spinner Posted September 17, 2012 Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 (edited) That's something I also never understood... 'tool up to the cut line' vs 'tool in the cut line'. Stohlman tech tips book says to put the toe of the beveler in the swivel knife cut and strike. Is that 'up to' or 'in' the line? Is one of the positions in this drawing the best way? ('Scuse the artwork!) The left side is what I understand Tech-tips to mean and what I think you mean by tooling 'up to' the cut line. Is the right side the ' to the line' position? That's something I also never understood... 'tool up to the cut line' vs 'tool in the cut line'. Stohlman tech tips book says to put the toe of the beveler in the swivel knife cut and strike. Is that 'up to' or 'in' the line? Is one of the positions in this drawing the best way? ('Scuse the artwork!) The left side is what I understand Tech-tips to mean and what I think you mean by tooling 'up to' the cut line. Is the right side the ' to the line' position? That's pretty much the theory. Obviously, the illustrated cut lines are a little exaggerated (either that or you need to put down the machete and get a swivel knife of proper proportions! ) but that's the idea. The best way I can think of to illustrate the benefits of "to the line" is to show one of my earlier pieces and a more recent one. In the first photo of the holster, take note around the edges of the oak leaf particularly the top right quadrant. If you look at the tooled edge of the leaf you will see a light colored aura. This aura is the bottom of the cut where the tool was used 'in the line' and it pulled the cut line open in an outward direction. The second photo shows a clear close up of "to the line". Note how the edges drop off nicely and there is very little separation between the raised edge and the textured background. The cut line is blended in by the forcing the leather down and the very edge filling in the cut line to create a seamless transition. As for the specific drawing, the left is "to the line/up to the line" whereas the right side would be "behind the line". "In the line" is what I refer to when (would require a third drawing) where the tool is even further to the left than your left side drawing, essentially trying to flatten out everything from the left high side back. I'll see about doodling a few sketches to elaborate. This is how I do it, the experience of others may vary but either way, I hope it helps. Cheers, Chris Edited September 17, 2012 by Spinner Quote Chris Three Mutts Customs Leather - http://www.threemuttscustoms.com
Members daveottawa Posted September 17, 2012 Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 ... (either that or you need to put down the machete and get a swivel knife of proper proportions! ) Thanks, that clears it up. No, I didn't use a machete, it was just a Tandy swivel knife (insert drumroll and cymbal crash here). Quote
Members Spinner Posted September 17, 2012 Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 This should explain better than my long winded paragraph above... Quote Chris Three Mutts Customs Leather - http://www.threemuttscustoms.com
Members daveottawa Posted September 17, 2012 Members Report Posted September 17, 2012 This should explain better than my long winded paragraph above... Even better ! Thanks! Quote
Members Big Daddy T Posted September 18, 2012 Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 That was exactly the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much. The illustration was perfect, all three! Thank you, BDT Quote
Members JoshDuvall Posted September 18, 2012 Members Report Posted September 18, 2012 I had noticed this too in my tooling once before. Mine mainly showed up after I applied antique and there was a definate line around my beveling. Another thing that can cause this besides everything that has already been said is your leather could be too wet. When your leather is too wet it seems like beveling seems to "sponge" back out a bit after you strike your stamp leaving your knife line a little deeper than your beveling too. Try letting your leather sit just a bit longer before beveling. Atleast that worked for me when I was having problems. Quote Josh Duvall
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