Abram Report post Posted May 2, 2012 I have made only two or three Avenger Style holsters using 8/9 oz. leather. All of them ride pretty nice but I have noticed that the gun angles away from the body. Is this just the inherit nature of the design or would thinner leather help to draw the holster back in? Any and all suggestions are welcomed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 2, 2012 Without seeing the holsters, . . . my first guess would be that you did not position them correctly when you did the molding. That "position" thing makes the final determination as to how the butt points, . . . and my guess is that you just put the gun in the wet leather, . . . laid it down on a table and began molding. That will force the butt out most of the time. That rear flap on the avenger style has to be up and off the table when you are molding the holster, . . . directly in line with the handle of the weapon. Hopefully, you can see what I mean in the little drawings. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted May 2, 2012 I have made only two or three Avenger Style holsters using 8/9 oz. leather. All of them ride pretty nice but I have noticed that the gun angles away from the body. Is this just the inherit nature of the design or would thinner leather help to draw the holster back in? Any and all suggestions are welcomed As usual I agree with Dwight, however, there may also be another possibility. You may have set up the holster with the shooter riding too high above the belt line. With too much of the gun above he belt line, the weight of the gun, especially when loaded, will tend to lean out away from he body. Just a thought, but without pics, it's difficult to tell. In general, the avenger style rides nice and tight to the body. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abram Report post Posted May 2, 2012 Here are two images of one of the holsters. I lined the gun up so the back slot would be inline with the center of the gun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 2, 2012 From the pictures, it's kinda hard to tell, . . . but the first two things I would look at, . . . pull your rear slot closer to the gun, . . . I'd come awful close to a full slot on the one you show in the picture. Another thing that makes a gun ride tighter, . . . more cant. Tilt that puppy forward a bit more, . . . Those two things should bring it in good, . . . but remember that if you get it in too tight, . . . as high as that is riding, . . . it could chafe the old rib cage real bad. You've got a good start on your holster making skills there, . . . keep it up. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abram Report post Posted May 2, 2012 Thanks Dwight. Right now I have a 15 degree cant and I can easily change that to 20 degree. Someone suggested in another thread, it might have been you, to try 4/5 oz. leather and once I get some more funds i may do just that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
evandailey Report post Posted May 3, 2012 I'm not nearly as experienced as Mike or Dwight, but I have noticed that a lot of makers build in some curve to the holster to theoretically help it conform to the waist. But when you pre-curve that rear flap on an avenger or pancake, you are actually removing the holsters ability to pull the but of the gun in. I like for mine to be molded and dried as flat as possible (as shown in Dwight's second picture), so when the belt goes in, it pulls the butt of the gun back to the body. It may not be as comfortable, at least initially, but it will conceal better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted May 3, 2012 The rear loop looks fine to me, it's the front one that needs to be adjusted. I would move it forward more. The further back the front tunnel loop is, the more the gun will angle away from the body out in front. You didn't say in your original post if the gun angles away from the body at the front or the rear, but judging from the photos, I'd bet it was at the front. I'd have to respectfully disagree that you need more cant on this one, especially with this type of holster. I'd also disagree with the statement that more cant makes a gun ride tighter. Extreme forward cant or nearly vertical, it's all in the pattern and loop placement. Just my .02 I think the holster looks really nice and clean. Good luck! @evandailey - If the holster isn't built on a curve, then when the belt is threaded through, especially on a pancake, it will cinch the mouth closed a bit which will affect the draw, the reholster, and the lifespan of the holster. The curve (not bending) is vital to the holster's performance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abram Report post Posted May 4, 2012 I apologize I should have been more clear. The top of the gun (slide) is the part that angles outward. I tried changing the tightness of my belt last night and that helped a great deal. After studying the holster some more and looking at other folks work some more I realize it may very well be the front slot. I am going to alter my pattern and give it another go. Thanks for all of the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites