ouchmyfinger Report post Posted May 3, 2012 just got my artisan toro 4000, want to make a few guitar straps. is it possible to stitch these on the machine? also how do i slick the edges and make a nice professional product, i will be using this same technique for belts and other items i assume so is there somewhere to get pointers or a book so i don't have to keep bothering you guys this week lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted May 3, 2012 just got my artisan toro 4000, want to make a few guitar straps. is it possible to stitch these on the machine? also how do i slick the edges and make a nice professional product, i will be using this same technique for belts and other items i assume so is there somewhere to get pointers or a book so i don't have to keep bothering you guys this week lol Hey ouch, I was going to ask about exotic inlays on a guitar strap too. But I can tell you where to get the best edge advice you'll ever get. Go to 'how do I do that' and Read Bobby Park's (Hidepounder) tutorial on edge finishing. Follow it and it will look more profession than you'll ever think something could. Cheryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ouchmyfinger Report post Posted May 3, 2012 Hey ouch, I was going to ask about exotic inlays on a guitar strap too. But I can tell you where to get the best edge advice you'll ever get. Go to 'how do I do that' and Read Bobby Park's (Hidepounder) tutorial on edge finishing. Follow it and it will look more profession than you'll ever think something could. Cheryl thats how i do my edges, just not sure if it worked on gator and other materials Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted May 3, 2012 thats how i do my edges, just not sure if it worked on gator and other materials Well DUH Cheryl, I never thought about you running it clear to the edge. I just ordered a bag of the SLC pieces of different exotic leathers and they're described as being pretty small so I had planned to maybe just inlay some on my strap. Sorry ouch, I'm out of my league because this will be a first for me. Cheryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ouchmyfinger Report post Posted May 4, 2012 i just don't know if i can stitch through the stingray or alligator or do i have to pre drill my holes and hand stitch that. i was thinking about doing just a large style inlay with a border around it of veg tan so i can get great edges but i need to know what i can stitch through and what i can't. your right though, i tried that burnishing method and never went back, its soooooooooooooooo much better and you can use the same color dye that you use to paint in the background to dye the edges and it makes everything match and so much more appealing to the eye its the little things we find out that make our products better than the average joe, thats why i love this site thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WinterBear Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Those pebbles on the stingray are impossible to stitch. They'll break or deflect your needle, or the nubbins will break and leave a sharp edge. Some of the users here use a dremel to grind the nubs off the sewing line (wear a respirator as the dust is bad for you), border with veg tan, or drill the holes and hope for the best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted May 4, 2012 Stingray can be stitched on a machine but it takes a few considerations. First, use ball point needles instead of bladed or tri-point. The ball point has a pointed but rounded tip so it deflects off the beads slightly and penetrates next to them. They work very well on 'ray hide where the beads are smallish. In areas where the beads are larger, you can use the handwheel to advance the machine manually which will reduce the power & increase the torque allowing them to deflect the same way. Trying to power through the larger beaded sections using the motor will result in a few broken needles. Also, with the ball points & 'ray, if inlaying under veg-tan, use a needle one size larger than needed for the thread. Ball point needle holes tend to close around the needle tightly as it goes in and the extra size will allow the thread to follow. Otherwise, the thread can catch on the edge of a bead as the needle penetrates and can cut/fray the thread. The backrest pad in this photo was sewn 100% using this method. For Alligator back, using a standard LTHR needle is fine, just keep in mind as you move closer to the middle of the back the scales get thicker and harder so you may have to switch to manual to get through them. Even running the machine manually it's still faster than hand stitching if you're looking for expediency. Here's a gator back inlay (tail section) I did this way for a Harley rear fender bib. Both were sewn on a Techsew 2700 with 138 thread top and 92 thread bottom. Cheers, Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
