Technique Questions

[Phatdaddy]

Hey Everyone,

As some may know I recently bought a Techsew 2700, I feel like I'm getting a bit more comfortable with it. I have no prior machine sewing experience, so this is a first for me.

I have a few process/technique sewing questions, not with the machine per se, but in general. I can start stitching a piece of scrap like no ones business now, stitching wildly in zig zags or around the perimeter. Sometimes it looks great, others not so much. Now I want to develop skills to the point I feel comfortable to try stitching projects etc.

- when starting to stitch a project, do I start ahead a bit, backstitch first, then forward over and then continue around?

- when I get back to the start do I stop at the "peak" of my initial back stitch and then back stitch a bit to finish off?

- the 2700 has a relatively small bobbin(imo), especially with 207 below. Are you limited to stitching the distance the bobbin will get you or is there a tidy way to stop and start with a full bobbin?

- is it cheating to hand walk around corners or is that considered common practice?

- With my machine I got regular needles, is there a huge difference in the leatherpoint/tri needles? Do they have a noticeably easier time "cutting" through leather than the regular needles? (135x17)

- Is there a resource where these newbie questions are all laid out?

I'll start with this, I'm sure there will be more. classes locally are not an option. Unfortunately.

Thanks a ton,

Kevin

[Northmount]

Many of these questions have been covered in posts over the past couple months, so use search to help find them. I'm no expert (x is an unknown quantity, spurt is a drip under pressure) but can help a little.

- when starting to stitch a project, do I start ahead a bit, backstitch first, then forward over and then continue around?

Start 2 or 3 stitches in from where you want to start, backstitch back to your starting point then forward and keep going. At the end, back stitch 2 or 3 stitches. I find it easier to keep needle and hole aligned by stopping with the needle down, then pulling the reverse lever down. Tie off the threads after. There are lots of posts about how to tie off, use super glue, burn the ends, etc. When starting out, always make sure you hold the threads tight until you have gone a couple stitches.

- when I get back to the start do I stop at the "peak" of my initial back stitch and then back stitch a bit to finish off?

Lots of choice here. Can start with no backstitch, make sure stitch is tight when you come back around to it, stitch over top, then a backstitch. Or no back stitches, but tighten and tie off the threads, especially if you can hide the tails between layers. Should be able to do it so you can't see the begin/end. I'm sure there are other options too, but I like to see no doubled up stitching. No beginning, no end!

- the 2700 has a relatively small bobbin(imo), especially with 207 below. Are you limited to stitching the distance the bobbin will get you or is there a tidy way to stop and start with a full bobbin?

My 2700 won't even feed 207 thread through the bobbin. Use a smaller diameter thread on the bottom. I did manage to replace the bobbin without losing the top once. Not easy to do. I took the article out from under the presser foot and didn't cut the top thread. I pulled stitches back to give me a couple inch tail on the bottom, pulled the top thread back through the needle and past the top tension disks, basically to the spool, then placed the needle in the next hole, picked up the bottom thread, and carried on. Then tied the bottom thread after. Was able to hide the note and tails. Not nice running out the bobbin part way through a long stitch line. You may have to hand wheel the machine to be able to stay in the original holes.

- is it cheating to hand walk around corners or is that considered common practice?

To me, there is no other way to start and stop exactly where you want to, and to be able to navigate tighter curves and corners. You do what is necessary to get the appearance and quality that you want in your finished product. A number of older machines had a hand crank pulley and later someone added a motor. The best of both worlds! Just don't whack yourself!

- With my machine I got regular needles, is there a huge difference in the leatherpoint/tri needles? Do they have a noticeably easier time "cutting" through leather than the regular needles? (135x17)

You may get a nicer bottom side stitch. A #24 needle through 1/4" of leather takes effort, regardless of the type of point. But dull needle is worse. On my little Singer flatbed 20-33, a leather point needle improves both stitch quality and bottom side appearance. Lubricated thread makes a big difference.

- Is there a resource where these newbie questions are all laid out?

The search function at the top of the page is your best friend. You'll soon get to know which posters have the best answers and most helpful information for a wide variety of topics. For sewing and machines, Sewmun, Art, 50 years leather, Wizcrafts, Cobra Steve and several others.

Make a few small useful items, like protective knife sheaths for your leather knives, simple drawstring purse, and other things you can use around home. Helps to see your own progress, and to have made a few items you are going to use. At the same time you can experiment with fabrication techniques, carving and tooling, finishes, antiques, etc.

Good luck, keep at it.

CTG