Casing And Backing For Tooling

[M_S]

After leather has been cased, how do you attach it to a backing surface? I read that contact cement works well, but if so, how do you get your finished, tooled piece off the backing surface? Also, does the contact cement "stick" to cased leather? Thanks.

[pete]

You can case after backing on some lighter leathers. I never use cement as a backing but I use clear shelf paper and sometimes cement that to a plate of plexiglass.

The shelf paper works well and is easier to apply than cross strips of packing tape. I also like the nap that's left afterwards- makes for better contact to glue.

just make sure that you REMOVE THE BACKING FROM THE LEATHER RATHER THAN PULLING THE LEATHER FROM THE BACKING. HOLD THE LEATHER FLAT AND PULL THE TAPE OFF.

PETE

Edited May 16, 2012 by pete

[mlapaglia]

After leather has been cased, how do you attach it to a backing surface? I read that contact cement works well, but if so, how do you get your finished, tooled piece off the backing surface? Also, does the contact cement "stick" to cased leather? Thanks.

You can use cement but use RUBBER cement not contact cement. I cement it before I case it.

Michael

[Cyberthrasher]

rubber cement if I'm using a poster board or something. Other than that I usually just use packing tape since it's sitting right next to me anyway. I quick case with my backing on, if I do a full soak it and let it sit overnight casing, then I'll do that first and back it before I start working.

[Chief31794]

I use ordinary self sticking shelf paper, it holds good, won't allow thin leathers (5oz and lighter) to stretch and comes off fairly easy. It will not stick to the leather if the leather is wet, you can case before or after but if after, make sure the leather has returned nearly to it's natural color. I case by wetting both sides of the leather until soaked in good but not soggy, then I place it in a plastic bag with a seal (ziplock) unless it is too large for a gallon bag then I place it between two sheets of glass that I keep for that purpose, I leave it under glass or in the bag for at least 24 hours then take it out, let it dry until it starts returning to it's natural color. Like I said put the shelf paper on before or after. I sometimes leave the shelf paper on until after I've dyed and finished the piece it also protects the back from getting dye on it (like belts).

Ken

Edited May 16, 2012 by Chief31794

[lightningad]

Ken - why do you leave it overnight in the bag? I assume there are benefits to this method and

Its one of those things i see many mention, but as i have only ever wet the leather then left it a few minutes to return to its normal colour before tooling, and never had a problem with the tooling i'm intrigues by the need to leave it so long.

adam

[Cyberthrasher]

why do you leave it overnight in the bag? I assume there are benefits to this method and

Adam, have you reviewed Bob's article on casing?

http://www.leatherworker.net/Bob%20Park/Casing%20Leather.pdf

[ironhead13]

I use packing tape, but on the last two things I did were slightly large and I didn't have any tape. So I used vinyl that is used printing stickers. Works real good, glued nothing to anything...the vinyl didn't let it stretch enough to matter.

For casing, just to throw it out there. I stick the tape or vinyl then wet the leather down with a sponge real good, but not over board. Less than an hour I start, works for me. I've tried the other methods and couldn't tell a difference.

[Cyberthrasher]

Less than an hour I start, works for me. I've tried the other methods and couldn't tell a difference.

The main difference I see is how frequently I have to re wet the leather. If I do a good overnight casing I usually get pretty far before it feels like I'm drying out.

[Northmount]

As mentioned above, use rubber cement, but not Barge rubber cement. It is permanent. Ask me how I know!

Use LePages or similar rubber cement from a stationery store. It removes easier, and you can also rub residue off.

CTG

[NoName]

Mlapaglia is right.

Rubber cement your project down to Hot Press (Crescent) Illustration board prior to casing and tooling. The leather will emboss into the hot press board slightly and the tooling will appear deeper. Wait until completely dry to peel up so that your leather does not stretch out of shape. You will have rubber cement residue on the flesh side.

[Chief31794]

Ken - why do you leave it overnight in the bag? I assume there are benefits to this method and

Its one of those things i see many mention, but as i have only ever wet the leather then left it a few minutes to return to its normal colour before tooling, and never had a problem with the tooling i'm intrigues by the need to leave it so long.

adam

Adam,

Sorry, I've been busy and it took a while to answer. Not to beat a dead horse, X2 on reading Bob Parks article on casing. The idea in casing is to get the core of the leather wet and that takes some time. If I'm stamping designs, then I don't worry about the overnight, wet it on one side well, wait about 10 -30 min depending on the humidity and when it starts to return then do your stamping. Carving is better done with leather cased as Bob describes in his paper. I wasn't clear, I also like to let it dry to some before putting in the bag or under glass but sometimes I don't have the time on the front end so I have to let it dry a little longer when I remove it. Remember there is a differnce between thouroughly wet and "soggy", soggy is too far and is better used for forming leather as opposed to casing for carving. Hope that make sense. Try casing as Bob says and see if you see a difference, most people do see a significant difference in how the leather carves and works. Keep in mind, in a bag you don't have to take it out in 24 hours, that is about what I leave it sometimes I leave it for 48. Longer than that and I put the bag with the leather inside in my small refrigerator in the shop (I keep diet drinks in there as well).

Like I said try it main thing is if you're happy and happy with the results.

Ken

[lightningad]

thanks Ken,

i did read the article months ago, so will have to go back and read it again.

I will be trying the overnight method tomorrow as i have been experimenting with using bicarbonate of soda to darken some leather by dunking it for an hour before removing it. I'll be tooling it tomorrow, so looking forward to seeing what its like.

rgds

Adam.