Contributing Member Jordan Posted July 22, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted July 22, 2008 This is what I have come up with so far. I built up the innards to make some room for the light, still need to cut a thin piece for the front/ mouth area as customer wants basketweave trim plus I think it will help hold it open. I incorporated a strap that will wrap just beneath the hammer and snap to the afore mentioned trim strip. I still have to fashion a wood filler for the area behind the light for moulding. I decided (don't really know why) to have the strap part of the sweat shield and snap in the front. This holster is more a carrying bucket than a functional quicksdraw Mcgraw so far I am happy with it but as we all know the magic happens at the end. LOL Quote
Members Srigs Posted July 23, 2008 Members Report Posted July 23, 2008 Looks like it should work. Your a brave man cutting the belts slots before assembly. Let us see it when completed. Quote Srigs, http://www.sideguardholsters.com "If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton.
Members Shorts Posted July 24, 2008 Members Report Posted July 24, 2008 Looks like it should work. Your a brave man cutting the belts slots before assembly. Let us see it when completed. lol I've though about it but never have. They get cut fater stitching, before molding. It works for me Quote
Members Dwight Posted July 27, 2008 Members Report Posted July 27, 2008 I use a home made tool for odd ball holsters, which I try to make only using a wrap around pattern (as opposed to a pancake type). For this, I have several wooden disks, about 3/4 inch thick, each having a hole in the center that just allows a lead pencil to pass through it. I lay the handgun down on a piece of manila folder, . . . place my wooden disk down flat next to the trigger guard up close to the handle of the handgun. I put a pencil in the hole and push the disk along the contour of the gun towards the barrel, . . . when I get to the front sight, . . . I stop. Being very careful to not lose contact with the manila folder, . . . I roll the handgun over on its other side and continue with the process of pushing the disk around the coutour of the gun. This gives me the "shape" and "size" of the gun: plus half the diameter of the wooden disk for stitches, molding, etc. My 1 inch disk (giving 1/2 inch of working room) is my favorite, and works for pretty much all I have tried, although I have larger and smaller disks available. You then add space for a trailing belt loop, . . . sweat shield, . . . extra leather for a closed muzzle, . . . etc. and you have a fairly reliable first pattern from which to start. Nice thing I have found is that usually it is just a smidgen too big, . . . and that is a whole lot better than too small. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
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