I woulod like some suggestions

[Jordan]

I just got an order for a holster for a Walther P22 with an under the barrel light and am starting my design process, any suggestions as to how to allow room for, and clearance upon drawing for this would be appreciated, I am going with a pancake style with belt slots and molding will be probably 50/50 on the front and back pieces, with a sweat/anti pinch ear around the hammer area. I am thinking some type of leather plug sanwiched to add thickness around the light and trigger guard to allow a smoother draw. Is this on the right track? Or ?

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Jordan, these are really tricky. I actually quit taking orders for this kind of holster because it's too easy to get to the trigger even when the pistol is fully seated in the holster (because extra room must be left to allow the light to pass). In the first place, I only made holsters like this for customeres I could speak with in person and determine that they had safe gun handling skills.

When I made the holster pictured below, I used dowel rods to fill the gap where the light would pass, and only boned the area above the light. I know this isn't a pancake style, but you are welcome to copy as much of this design as you want (just remember that I'm not responsible for how the customer or anyone else viewing will use any holster bearring resemlance to the one pictured, as it is everyone's personal responsibility to learn how to safely use a holster under proper supervision - end disclaimer). I don't normally make thumb snaps, but in this case it was necessary to ensure the pistol stays in the holster. It was located where a normal grasp of the grip will release the snap. I also placed a tension adjusting screw to act as a stop for the pistol when the light isn't attached, which helped it stay in place without much slop in the fit.

My final advice to you is this: Be sure to get well compensated for your time, especially when you consider that it takes quite bit of time to design and research a holster of this build type, and the probability of re-using the pattern is very low. If your customer doesn't want to pay what it's worth to you to build it, there are plenty of cheap nylon holsters out there that will suffice.

[Shorts]

Jeff, nice holster. And you did what I was thinking of suggesting - the wooden dowel. That holster will be a challenge to build Jordan but you've got some ingenuity behind your thinking - you can do it. As stated above, keep your time and work in perspective with the cost.

[Jordan]

Thanks for the photos and insight, looks kind of like what I pictured in my minds eye. I have about a week to put one together and I get the impression after a face to face discussion about the construction and use of this type of holster, he understands the issues with it's use. And as you mentioned I don't see me making to many of this type but it will be an interesting challenge. I will post some photos of what I come up with. Thanks again and that is a very nice looking holster, your work is very impressive as usual. Jordan

[Randy Cornelius]

I carry a G-21 with a tack light attached everyday. It is issued to me so I have no choise. The challange in building a holster for these is that in the end they all are no more than a bucket with a strap. As he stated you have to have a strap of some kind just to hold it in a holster or they fall out. Simply because there is no way to put any interal retention device with these tack lights. It is hard to wet form them as the leather tends to form around the light and that then hangs up when drawing. As a LEO I feel the benifits of a tack light on a pistol are few. I would rather have a level 2 0r 3 security holster with internal retention divices. Just my .02 worth.

RC

[Billsotx]

I would run the retention strap up over the back end of the slide so that you can get a firm and final firing grip on the piece before making the presentation. That will also make holstering more practical as the straps won't have a tendency to block the mouth of the holster as you go back into the leather. Holstering must be done with one hand and without looking down - just as a presentation should be accomplished. Just run your retention strap up over the back of the slide and you'll have good clearance for a proper firing grip and smooth presentation. Smooth is quick and that's what serious handgunners are looking for. From a training (user) standpoint, if a holster prevents you from getting the proper firing grip while the piece is still secure in the leather it should be modified or deleted from your kit.

That's some real nice looking leather Jeff, and "I think" you can take it to a higher level if you tweak the retention strap up over the end of the slide.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Good advice, Billsotx. I put the thumb strap there at the customer's request, because he wanted the holster to work with and without the laser attached. If it was where it ought to normally go, the gun could rock backwards out from under it when the light wasn't attached because of all the extra room. I attempted to explain to him that the holster should be dedicated for use with the pistol and light combo alone, but he wanted it this way and at the time I needed the business. This was my last holster for a pistol with an attachment. Since that time I have quit making them and I even destroyed all my patterns.

I whole-heartedly agree with your advice and I have to say I'm really glad to get your input on this forum, whenever you give it. Please feel welcome to interject with your opinions on any of my other posts. I can always use the input -

[K-Man]

I've made a couple of hundred of these, and they're not a lot of fun to make. It really depends on the light that's on the gun. There's a whole slew of lights available. The "easiest" ones to do are those that are no wider than the frame of the gun itself. So I generally stay in the easy category. I have made holsters for large guns, i.e., Beretta/Taurus 92 with a Streamlight on it. Did not place a retention strap on it. One in particular has been used every day for the last couple of months. Have not had any retention issues develop. I would not use the same holster for a gun without a light on it. IMO holsters should be made to facilitate the function.

[Jordan]

Being Sunday I have not even stepped into the workshop, but yesterday I did note that the attached light is as thin as the pistol but does extend past the end of the barrel a little, so far most of my time has been spent just thinking about it and the build process. Tomorrow will be pen to paper and probably cut some leather

[Srigs]

I did a OWB holster with a light attached and it was a challenge. The light unit was larger than the frame so I end up with an interesting shaped holster but one that worked.

On making it, I did a lot of cold wet forming before any gluing or stitching. Take your time.

[Jordan]

This is what I have come up with so far. I built up the innards to make some room for the light, still need to cut a thin piece for the front/ mouth area as customer wants basketweave trim plus I think it will help hold it open. I incorporated a strap that will wrap just beneath the hammer and snap to the afore mentioned trim strip. I still have to fashion a wood filler for the area behind the light for moulding. I decided (don't really know why) to have the strap part of the sweat shield and snap in the front. This holster is more a carrying bucket than a functional quicksdraw Mcgraw so far I am happy with it but as we all know the magic happens at the end. LOL

[Srigs]

Looks like it should work. Your a brave man cutting the belts slots before assembly. Let us see it when completed.

[Shorts]

Looks like it should work. Your a brave man cutting the belts slots before assembly. Let us see it when completed.

lol I've though about it but never have. They get cut fater stitching, before molding. It works for me

[Dwight]

I use a home made tool for odd ball holsters, which I try to make only using a wrap around pattern (as opposed to a pancake type).

For this, I have several wooden disks, about 3/4 inch thick, each having a hole in the center that just allows a lead pencil to pass through it.

I lay the handgun down on a piece of manila folder, . . . place my wooden disk down flat next to the trigger guard up close to the handle of the handgun. I put a pencil in the hole and push the disk along the contour of the gun towards the barrel, . . . when I get to the front sight, . . . I stop.

Being very careful to not lose contact with the manila folder, . . . I roll the handgun over on its other side and continue with the process of pushing the disk around the coutour of the gun.

This gives me the "shape" and "size" of the gun: plus half the diameter of the wooden disk for stitches, molding, etc. My 1 inch disk (giving 1/2 inch of working room) is my favorite, and works for pretty much all I have tried, although I have larger and smaller disks available.

You then add space for a trailing belt loop, . . . sweat shield, . . . extra leather for a closed muzzle, . . . etc. and you have a fairly reliable first pattern from which to start. Nice thing I have found is that usually it is just a smidgen too big, . . . and that is a whole lot better than too small.

May God bless,

Dwight