garytylermcleod Report post Posted May 28, 2012 I have been reading up on Leatherworker.net for almost a month now, and playing around a lot to find the process that "works best for me." I am having a great time doing it and I'm so thankful for all the great advice! I hope I can provide some of my own one day. Anyhow, I am making camera straps. My process right now is: 1. Cut strips, punch holes, 2. Oil with Neatsfoot Oil and let dry overnight 3. Edge and burnish with saddle soap 3. Dye with Feibings spirit dye and let dry overnight 4. Apply Bag-Kote with T-Shirt material and let dry for 24 hours 5. Buff to smooth out any weird edges 6. Apply 2nd layer of Bag-Kote with foam brush, let dry for 24 hours 7. Buff to nice feel/finish If anyone has any thoughts on this or other things to try, please let me know. My first question is whether there is an oil I can use that won't darken the leather? I am having a hard time getting the color I want. Even the thinnest amount of Neatsfoot seems to darken the leather so much that using a light brown spirit dye gives me a very dark brown result. I am going to try some Lexol conditioner tomorrow and see if that works. The Bee Natural stuff I have read about seems way too expensive... but is it worth it? If it's worth it I will get it. Next question. Is there a better time to oil? Some people at Oregon Leather told me I don't need to oil at all, but if I don't oil I hate the result I get. The oil step makes the leather feel how I want it to. They also said I shouldn't oil before dyeing, while a lady at Tandy said I should oil before dyeing. What are your thoughts? And if I use Lexol, is it still OK to oil before dyeing? Does it cause the dye to not stay as well? Thanks so much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
28ist Report post Posted May 29, 2012 What are you using to apply the oil? I had much the same problem until I started airbrushing the neatsfoot. My process is oil, dye, oil all with an airbrush. Believe me, I'm far from being an expert but it seems to be working for me. Hopefully more experienced posters will have more advice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terrymac Report post Posted May 29, 2012 I think you are going to find the Lexol will also tend to darken. If you don't want to darkken, the only thing I have found is Bee's Natural Saddle Oil. It is really good stuff and is worth every cent it costs. It is all I will use and will give veg tan leather kind of a "Golden Hue". Your cost per strap in oil cost is minimal in relation to the time and effort you are putting in, and as far as I am concerned, go with what works, regardless of perceived cost. Good luck, Terry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted May 29, 2012 I'm going to say this for the 12, 094 time and have yet to have anyone correct me but for that matter agree with. I know the feel you are going for. I use Vt's Original Bag balm. I figure if it's good enough for the live cow it's good enough for the dead one. it's the last step I do. I spread in on pretty thick, use a blow dryer on med for about 15 seconds to turn it liquid, and get in there and rub it in with my hands. Actually it's my favorite step. I love the way the leather feels with it on, and you get that limp soft look you are looking for. after I'm done, I let it dry overnight and if there is any excess left I rub it again with my hands, then take a clean cloth and wipe it off. It does not darken the leather either. I've used it for a year on things from straps to a camp stool seat I made. But I mean the really FINAL step, after you've put a coat of resolene or saddle sheen or whatever on it. Give it a try, doesn't have to be VTs and it's so cheap it's ridiculous compared to other conditioners. Cheryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted May 29, 2012 Olive oil is what I have found that works well on leather and darkens the least. Many times it does not darken at all. I use extra virgin but have heard that regular olive oil works just as well. Give it a try. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garytylermcleod Report post Posted May 29, 2012 Does anyone know if dye will set better on the flesh side if I dye before oiling? I have tried olive oil. It's true it didn't quite darken as much but it also didn't take to the leather as well. It left the leather feeling greasy. I think I will get some of the Bee Natural next. The only problem I have with the bag balm is you say it is the last step. I need something that will condition the leather before I put buckles on and do the burnishing because I've found it is much better to have the leather already conditioned for those steps. Thanks for the advice everyone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike516 Report post Posted May 29, 2012 I think hardware is the last last step. I think she meant last for dying, waterproofing, etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thebringa Report post Posted May 31, 2012 I'm having good luck with the Lexol conditioner. I'm using the Spirit Dye in all colors too...Oxblood Red, Navy Blue, Purple and Grey. I'm using the following process: 1. Deglazer 2. Dye 3. Burnish to rub off excess dye and shine, let sit overnight 4. Lexol Conditioner with a soft cloth, let sit overnight, to get soft again 5. Acrylic Resolene Finish The Lexol does not seem to darken the leather with this process. Also, if you use the deglazer, and put the dye on when the leather is still damp with deglazer, you will need to use less dye and you will have a lighter result. Another solution is to use a product to reduce the dye, to get a very light brown so that when you use Neatsfoot, you get the right shade. I'd practice on scrap pieces until you get the shade you want. The above process works great for me though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites