Mag Pouch Question

[Abram]

I tried making my first mag pouch the other day and I ran into a problem. I laid out my pattern, BTW this for a Springfield XD45 Magazine which is 1 inch thick so I allowed a half inch on either side for my stitch line, the problem arose when I tried to mold it. The stitch lines on the top of the pouch started drawing inwards and the width at the top became smaller than the width at the bottom. At first I thought perhaps the stitch lines were to close but a 1/2 inch should have been plenty. Any ideas as to what I did wrong.

Edited May 30, 2012 by Abram

[husker]

I think some pictures would help if available.

[steelhawk]

Sometimes I have to make my stitch lines crooked so they come out straight when the thing is molded. On the mag pouches for one gun, the stitch lines slant inward. When the magazine is inserted, the lines go straight. It took a couple of times to figure out the angle.

Edited May 30, 2012 by steelhawk

[markush]

Sometimes I have to make my stitch lines crooked so they come out straight when the thing is molded..

Yep, what steelhawk said.

You'll often read about people using lesser quality belly leather to make up a couple/few pieces before finalizing a design.

[particle]

You might (should) also add one thickness of your leather to your offset. So, if you're using 8oz leather, offset 5/8". Maybe 1/16" to 1/8" more the first time to make sure you can insert the gun or mag into the holster or pouch, then adjust the pattern once you see how it all comes out. My 1911 lines are parallel, but my double stacks get wider towards the mouth of the pouch.

For a double mag pouch, you may also want to curve the top of the mag pouch downward as well - if you go straight across the top, your mag pouch will curve upwards on double stacks.

Edited May 31, 2012 by particle

[Abram]

I looked around last night for the mag pouch and could no find it, don't know what I did with it. I am not sure if i understand about making the stitch lines crooked. When I insert the mag into the pouch to be molded the top of the pouch along with the top of the belt slots all tilt inwards while the bottom of the pouch and the bottom of the belt slots remains in place. I will look again for the pouch and take a picture, if I can't find it I am going to try a different design.

Thanks for the help fellas.

[particle]

From the point where your two side stitch lines touch the bottom stitch line, angle each of those longer lines outward. Measure from the top corner of the stitch line outwards (away from the mag pouch) to an imaginary line where you perceive the stitch line should have actually been located. It's probably somewhere around 1/8"+/-. Move the top corner of your stitch line out by that same distance, and that should correct the problem. Now, whatever angle that line was rotated outward - that is the angle you need to rotate the top edge of your holster downward to avoid the top edge curving upward.

[Abram]

Thanks Adam, that little picture alone is worth a thousand words. Now if I can just find that old pouch I can get some measurements.

[particle]

You're welcome - I said the two angles should match, but in reality, the top edge of the pouch may not need to angle downward quite that much, but you get the idea. Perhaps an easier way to think of it is - the top stitch line needs to intersect the vertical stitch line perpendicularly to form a 90 degree corner with your stitching.

[Abram]

Would I be right in thinking that not only does the top need to angle so does the sides as well as the belt loops. I had thought of stitching the sides along the magazine and the molding the holster and when it was dry I could finish my stitching.

Once again I appreciate everyone's help. This old country boy could not get his head wrapped around this.

[particle]

If you can find your original, you'll have a better idea by looking at a visual reference. Personally - I stitch my entire mag pouch first, then punch the slots, then form it. Your belt slots will be parallel to the left and right edges of the pouch. But those left and right edges may need to angle outward a bit as well since those top/outer corners are being drawn inward when you insert the magazine.

Please note that I'm saying all of this with a fresh mental image of a double glock mag pouch I just finished. I've only made a hand full of them - most of my orders are for 1911's. It was really only with this last batch (I actually made 3 double glock mag pouches) that I realized how badly it was curved once formed. Since I have something physical to refer to now, it will be easy to take a few measurements at the places it didn't come out right and adjust my pattern accordingly to get it right the next time I make one.

[Matt Alsaker]

Eric...thanks for the informative posts.

Abram...I've only recently started trying to make a magazine pouch also. For me, Glock magazines are some of the toughest because of how thick they are. I haven't been able to get a double magazine pouch figure out, but am pretty happy with the single pouch pictured below. I set the snap for on the back while the leather is flat, fold the leather over, stitch from the top of the curve (on the bottom) to the top opening, then heavily case the leather, force the magazine into the case, fold the belt loop flap to the back, let it dry, then do all the finishing work. I stitch straight lines (don't have to worry about angles for the stitch lines).

Eric's quality is much higher than the stuff I put together. I'm more of a rough carpenter, he does the high end finish work.

Edited May 31, 2012 by Matt Alsaker

[morgans leather]

I just wanted to add my design of a pancake style mag holder with belt loops punched out on leather . To give a better idea of what the stitch lines look like and how far apart they are to get a good wet mold without affecting the stitch line and what length is needed to be able to have enough room for the mag to fit in the leather. These two mag holders in picture are my first attempts after making templates from wood to make four of them . this is the ruff in before final touch ups of edges and cleaning before dying .

[Abram]

Thanks fellas for the suggestions and pictures. I must have thrown my first attempt in the garbage or recycled it for something else, bummer. I am currently working on another design based on all of the great feedback for you. I would like some day to make a wooden mold and try one that way but for now a simple one is challenge enough...lol. Thanks again for all of the help.