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hazymat

Alternative To Using Rivets

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I need to rivet through 5 layers of 8oz cowhide. The total thickness is around 16mm.

The rivet needs to look nice from both sides, therefore I was hoping to use a tubular rivet with domed ends.

Unfortunately it seems practically impossible to source rivets of this length. Add to that I need the head to be relatively small in diameter (10mm or preferably under), I really can't find any such rivet online or in a hardware store.

Even if I did find a rivet to suit, would it be a nightmare to actually hammer the thing without it buckling? I don't know.

The only alternative I can think of is to use some kind of decorative nut and bolt, but that seems way too chunky for what I need.

Has anyone come across this problem before?

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Could you use a screw post?

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I am having some similar issues right now. I am thinking of trying crown bolts and crown nuts...... not so pretty but if they work.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Fasteners-Nuts/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarnd/R-100337781/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Bolts-Specialty-Bolts/Crown-Bolt/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc25hZ1z8/R-202105590/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

same color of course......you could cut the post an recondition the threads if you needed shorter.

Edited by TN leather

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Sounds like a nicely set 1" #12 copper rivet to me. Drill your hole slightly smaller than the rivet, so you have to force the rivet through the hole, this will help keep the rivet from bending. Set the burr, cut off the excess rivet, use your setter to peen the rivet. Remember, you're not driving a nail just tap, tap, tap on that setter. You can tell by the sound if you're doing it right, it should sound solid against whatever you're setting it on, if it thunks or sounds dead, you're not hitting it straight or the rivet has bent. After it is successfully set, give it one tap directly with the hammer and that will get rid of the point and make it look finished. You can dome the bottom of the rivet if you wish or just leave it flat.

Kevin

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Sounds like a nicely set 1" #12 copper rivet to me. Drill your hole slightly smaller than the rivet, so you have to force the rivet through the hole, this will help keep the rivet from bending. Set the burr, cut off the excess rivet, use your setter to peen the rivet. Remember, you're not driving a nail just tap, tap, tap on that setter. You can tell by the sound if you're doing it right, it should sound solid against whatever you're setting it on, if it thunks or sounds dead, you're not hitting it straight or the rivet has bent. After it is successfully set, give it one tap directly with the hammer and that will get rid of the point and make it look finished. You can dome the bottom of the rivet if you wish or just leave it flat.

Kevin

+1 on the copper rivet. Probably the best way to go. Certainly very strong.

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Thanks yet again to this forum, you are all so helpful.

After some further research I found that a common use for this kind of thing is bookbinding.

Here's a place in the UK that sells bookbinding screws: http://www.joyce-pm.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=248&zenid=dlr58a3c0co92rafdddgvvghu3

Problem with the above is that I only require small quantities therefore will be investigating the options you've all mentioned so far as well.

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1338854069[/url]' post='251209']

Thanks yet again to this forum, you are all so helpful.

After some further research I found that a common use for this kind of thing is bookbinding.

Here's a place in the UK that sells bookbinding screws: http://www.joyce-pm....92rafdddgvvghu3

Problem with the above is that I only require small quantities therefore will be investigating the options you've all mentioned so far as well.

About the same thing as Chicago rivets.

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I need to rivet through 5 layers of 8oz cowhide. The total thickness is around 16mm.

The rivet needs to look nice from both sides, therefore I was hoping to use a tubular rivet with domed ends.

Unfortunately it seems practically impossible to source rivets of this length. Add to that I need the head to be relatively small in diameter (10mm or preferably under), I really can't find any such rivet online or in a hardware store.

Even if I did find a rivet to suit, would it be a nightmare to actually hammer the thing without it buckling? I don't know.

The only alternative I can think of is to use some kind of decorative nut and bolt, but that seems way too chunky for what I need.

Has anyone come across this problem before?

Some time ago I was working on a prototype speed holster that needed a 'standoff' of almost 1 3/4". I cut the pieces and epoxied them together and put them in a press to cure. Used brass wood screws dipped in the same epoxy to attach a belt loop. The thing worked but I decided that it really wasn't practical so in the scrap drum it went,, BUT, that 1 3/4' stack is still holding up. Just a suggestion. The welt on the holster is only 3/8" thick plus two thicknesses of leather of the holster itself --- total of 7/8", and is glued an hand stitched in the normal way .A couple of pics. Mike

001-17.jpg

002-11.jpg

Edited by katsass

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Thanks yet again to this forum, you are all so helpful.

After some further research I found that a common use for this kind of thing is bookbinding.

Here's a place in the UK that sells bookbinding screws: http://www.joyce-pm....92rafdddgvvghu3

Problem with the above is that I only require small quantities therefore will be investigating the options you've all mentioned so far as well.

You are brilliant…..you just solved an issue I am having with a couple of sheaths that the customer wants “extras” on……you would think I would know about them too. I used to do print work,finishing and binding , but never saw these gems.

I have a local small job printer I will check and see if he has a few to sale to me.

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Problem with the above is that I only require small quantities therefore will be investigating the options you've all mentioned so far as well.

This would definitely seem to be a job best suited to copper rivets, but if you want to give screws a try, these people (http://www.russels.c...EATHER%2012.pdf) sell them in dozens, rather than 100's.

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