usmc0341 Report post Posted July 2, 2012 Hey folks, I'm looking to try making a copy of the Milt Sparks VMII holster and from what I see he uses a steel reinforcing band. My question is what kind of steel are people using and where do you get it. I tried searching for this but couldn't find an anser. Thanks in advance, Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted July 2, 2012 Hey folks, I'm looking to try making a copy of the Milt Sparks VMII holster and from what I see he uses a steel reinforcing band. My question is what kind of steel are people using and where do you get it. I tried searching for this but couldn't find an anser. Thanks in advance, Brian A number of guys use the banding strip from paletizing. You can also get .030 to .040 stainless steel shim stock that will work nicely. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
usmc0341 Report post Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) The packing steel bands don't seem like they would be rigid enough. Where can I find the shims? Edited July 3, 2012 by usmc0341 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted July 3, 2012 I use 20 gauge (.032) stainless steel. I make enough IWB holsters for guys I work with that I had a local metal shop - Pro Metal Works, www.pmwinc.biz, laser cut them for me. I used to just buy stock at a local hardware store, then cut it and grind the edges myself. For one holster, you might want to try that option. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
usmc0341 Report post Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks Matt, I'll try the hardware store. I was thinking I would need tool steel or something that would "flex" a little more then regular steel. If the holster collapses for some reason and the metal mouth gets closed will that just rebend to shape? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks Matt, I'll try the hardware store. I was thinking I would need tool steel or something that would "flex" a little more then regular steel. If the holster collapses for some reason and the metal mouth gets closed will that just rebend to shape? With all due respect you are trying to overthink something that is very simple. A metal stiffener really isn't necessary with the double layer of leather at the mouth of the holster but it has become popular. If you must use it then something about .030 thick that can be bent to shape so you can form the leather to the gun without having the metal try to spring back straight. In the very unlikely event the mouth of the holster becomes crushed it can just be reformed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks Matt, I'll try the hardware store. I was thinking I would need tool steel or something that would "flex" a little more then regular steel. If the holster collapses for some reason and the metal mouth gets closed will that just rebend to shape? I've built IWB's with and without the metal reinforcement piece, but now I build them all with the reinforcement. My customers are mostly LEO's and they are much happier with the metal reinforced holsters. I use 20 gauge now, but have used 22 gauge in the past. The 22 gauge had more flexibility to it. The 20 gauge is very rigid, but I am still able to bend and mold the holster by hand. I'm glad I switched to the 20 gauge. If the mouth of the holster were to become closed with a 20 gauge piece of stainless steel inside, you have bigger problems. The 20 gauge piece will not collapse under normal use. I think 20 gauge is pliable enough you'd probably be able to get the holster back into shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted January 31, 2013 I use 20 gauge (.032) stainless steel. I make enough IWB holsters for guys I work with that I had a local metal shop - Pro Metal Works, www.pmwinc.biz, laser cut them for me. I used to just buy stock at a local hardware store, then cut it and grind the edges myself. For one holster, you might want to try that option. Matt, might you have a picture of the metal piece you have made? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted January 31, 2013 i used kydex the last time i made one...060 i believe...i didnt heat it, just sewed it in between, bent it, and used a few extra clips when i folded and glued it up...it worked great, the tension kept the mouth always pulling open... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted January 31, 2013 Matt, might you have a picture of the metal piece you have made? A local machine shop laser cut them for me. They are stainless steel. The dimensions are: 3.5" long and 1" wide. I had to order a minimum of 100, but it was worth the price considering the time it saves me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RWP Report post Posted January 31, 2013 We don't have any machine shops here in my small ga town and if we did I wouldn't really be able to afford it but I use kid ex like another poster said it hasn't failed yet Meant kydex -_- Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
