Contributing Member ClayB Posted January 7, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted January 7, 2008 Johanna says things are fixed and we can post pictures again. I am going to start with this short How To. I am working on an in depth one on figure carving too, but want to see how this one goes first. These pictures show how I carved a simple floral pattern. The first picture shows the pattern carved with the swivel knife. You can see that where cuts meet, there is a small gap, the cuts do not meet. Where cuts end, try to lessen the pressure on the knife, letting the cuts fade out instead of ending abruptly. This picture shows the addition of pear shading. I like to use the pear shader in the center of the leaves and scrolls, leaving a ridge around the edge. Start the shading heavy at the top, and walk the shader down the length of the leaf. Lessen the pressure as you go, fading out the impression as you get to the bottom of the leaf. A camoflage tool is used on the center of the scroll. It is also used on the outside edge of the scroll. Tilt the tool so only part of the tool impression is left on the leather. Space the impressions evenly down the length of the scroll. I also used the camoflage tool around what would be the stem in the center of the pattern. The pattern is now beveled. Try and walk your beveler to get even impressions. You can go over your beveling more than once to smooth it out, or smooth out tool marks with a modeling tool. A veiner was use on the outer edge of the buds. It is also used on one side of the vien on the large leaves. A camoflage tool is used on the opposite side of the vien. Be careful to keep impressions as evenly spaced as possible. Also lean the tool, using one edge of the tool to make the impression. Now the outside of the pattern is backgrounded. I used a pebble background tool. Try and make your impressions even. (also try not to miss a spot, as I did) In the center of the pattern, I used a matting tool to get a different effect. Now add decorative cuts with your swivel knife. Some of mine look more like butcher cuts. These take a lot of practice to make them look good and I need more. I dyed the background with a dark spirit dye then finished with a coat of Tan Kote. Quote ClayB Badlands Leather Art blog Badlands Leather Art Website
Members David Fields Posted January 7, 2008 Members Report Posted January 7, 2008 Is that the correct order of tooling, I'm always confused about which tools to use in what order. I usually start with the beveler (after the swivel knife) around the outside of leaves and scrolls. Then pear shader, camo, veiner, seeder and then bevel the inner areas of leaf and scrolls followed by background. Quote
cjbleather Posted January 7, 2008 Report Posted January 7, 2008 Clay, Great job! As far as order of tool use, I believe Paul Burnett suggests that the blunter tools like a pear shader be used before the sharper tools. He establishes his order with the amount of dampness in the leather. However, like you, I also do beveling first. I would like to add one thing that may be pertinent in the use of the camo tool along the outside of the scroll. Some one once told me (I can't remember who) that the inside points of the camo tool should be pointed at the imaginary center of the scroll. Thus, the tilt would gradually be dimisheded as you go up the scroll. Carlb Quote
Contributing Member ClayB Posted January 7, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted January 7, 2008 Dave, Usually I do it the same way you do, bevel after cutting, then cam, veiner, etc. But that is the way that Jim has been teaching it in his kids classes. It does seem to work better that way for certain things. It's just hard for me to change the order that I have become used to doing them. I think back when I started, by beveling first, I could understand the pattern better. By using the cams and shaders and vieners first though, you seem to get better definition in your patterns. Maybe someone else can better explain why. Quote ClayB Badlands Leather Art blog Badlands Leather Art Website
Ambassador Beaverslayer Posted January 7, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted January 7, 2008 Thanks Clay, I always love looking and reading your "How To Do's" they are an inspiration to keep trying harder. Ken Quote Beaverslayer Custom Leather<br />Wearable Works of Art https://www.facebook...erCustomLeather
Contributing Member ClayB Posted January 7, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted January 7, 2008 Carl, Thanks for adding the info on the scrolls. I meant to mention Paul's website too. He has a lot of good tips on when, where, and how to use different tools. Be sure to sign up for Paul's free lessons at Painting Cow Quote ClayB Badlands Leather Art blog Badlands Leather Art Website
Ambassador Don101 Posted January 7, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted January 7, 2008 Nice carving Clay i also love your tutorials so do keep them comming, Don Quote
Members shirleyz Posted January 7, 2008 Members Report Posted January 7, 2008 Hi Clay, Happy New Year! Awesome Job on the tutorial! You really are a great guy to do all you do, but I already told you that. Shirley Quote badassseats As long as I have a want, I have a reason for living. Satisfaction is death. ~George Bernard Shaw
Members David Genadek Posted January 8, 2008 Members Report Posted January 8, 2008 Is that the correct order of tooling, I'm always confused about which tools to use in what order. I usually start with the beveler (after the swivel knife) around the outside of leaves and scrolls. Then pear shader, camo, veiner, seeder and then bevel the inner areas of leaf and scrolls followed by background. Dave there is no correct order. I switch depending on the design and the effect I want to get. I will often bevel before I pear shade so the shading can move into the bevel but not always. What you want to think about is what is on top of what,and where is the stem or the line of flow. As you do some tooling you will learn which tools will help hide the mistakes you may have made with the previouse tool and that will dictate the order you use after you focus on the main flow line and what is the closest to you. Play on scrap and feel free to mess up. David Genadek Quote
Members David Fields Posted January 8, 2008 Members Report Posted January 8, 2008 Dave there is no correct order. I switch depending on the design and the effect I want to get. I will often bevel before I pear shade so the shading can move into the bevel but not always. What you want to think about is what is on top of what,and where is the stem or the line of flow. As you do some tooling you will learn which tools will help hide the mistakes you may have made with the previouse tool and that will dictate the order you use after you focus on the main flow line and what is the closest to you. Play on scrap and feel free to mess up. David Genadek Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I've been learning from Al Stohlman books and his various books seem to vary as to the order of tooling too. So as you say...there is really no correct order. Quote
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