Adjustments To A 441 To Use Stirrup Plate

[Trox]

Hei Leatherkind,

Nice job! Now it will not skip any stitches when you use the stirup plate. What height are your feed dog att.? Do you think the plate still is strong enough for heavy use? How heigh is your machin`s foot lift (with original plate)? I have not had the time to modify my plate yet, been busy installing a new Efka motor and air foot lift on it.

A question far off topic, what kind of thread lube are you using? I have been using ordenary Tandy neatsfoot oil, and having some stitch errors with this. I think the oil is making the polyester thread sticky and keeping it from making proper thread loops, and then again occasionally it skip stitches. I will try the silicon oil instead, however, that does not mix with dyes and paint. I have to do all coloring prior to sewing a projeckt. If you have any experience with this matter please let me know.

Thanks

Trox

[leatherkind]

Thanks Trox

The plate is stainless steel and has planty of strength. The clearance under the presser foot with normal flat plate is 21mm and with this modified stirrup plate it is 13mm.

I am not using any lube and never used polyester. I never dyed production pieces, so can not offer any help on that, sorry.

[Wizcrafts]

Trox;

I run all of my top thread through a lube pot containing liquid silicon. It helps maintain top thread tension, lubricates the inside of the holes and cools the needle. The silicon is clear and does not appear to discolor natural veg-tan leather at all. Ditto for the clear oil I use to lubricate the machine.

[Ken Nelson]

Wiz, What kind of thread are you using? Nylon or Polyester? Thanks Ken

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz, What kind of thread are you using? Nylon or Polyester? Thanks Ken

Bonded nylon.

[Trox]

Trox;

I run all of my top thread through a lube pot containing liquid silicon. It helps maintain top thread tension, lubricates the inside of the holes and cools the needle. The silicon is clear and does not appear to discolor natural veg-tan leather at all. Ditto for the clear oil I use to lubricate the machine.

Thank you Wiz, I have no experience with this liquid silicon. However, I remember when I spray painted cars, if any silicon mixed with the paint it made big ponds in the paint. If they had repaired the windshield with silicon, only a very small amount of silicon made big ponds in the paint. It did not matter how well you sanded the car body you had to use silicon remover to get rid of the stuff. That is the reason for my skepticism towards silicon. My Adler’s use the 328 needle, this needle are not running as hot as the 794. It gets smoking hot, the lube is absolutely necessary. I will try the silicon stuff, I to be using the white machine oil.

Thanks

Trox

[MADMAX22]

It is shorter because of the drag of the leather in reverse.We noticed this problem years ago & determined it is the way the needle bar rock frame is designed,if you look @ it you'll notice it has a bend @ the top which makes it offset & prohibits even feed in reverse w/o the feed dogs.Lower foot pressure might help along with putting some teflon tape on top of the slotted plate to lessen the friction.

It's nice to hear the machine is learning how you want it to sew.

Bob

Bob on my machine (4500 from Neils) I was having a little issue with back tacking not working right. Come to find out the little screws on the lever for going from forward to revers that you can see inside the machine on the slot (hard to describe) were actually loose. Once I got them good and tight the back stitch will stay in the same holes for a good little stretch. Probably not for a long stretch because of what you mentioned but much better then when I was first started using it.