particle Report post Posted July 26, 2012 I have a customer that asked that me NOT to apply a final acrylic finish to his order. He would like a wax finish instead of acrylic. I'm fine with that, but the acrylic helps to stiffen the holster a bit. So, if I skip the acrylic, what's the best way to apply a wax finish? Leather Sheen? Or rub beeswax over it and melt it in with a hair dryer? or something else? Acrylic sealers seem to help stiffen the holster, so I'd like to find a wax method that can help stiffen the leather if possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted July 26, 2012 FYI - the customer was referring specifically to the "Color & Finish" section of the following page. http://www.frontiergunleather.com/index.php/home/3-things-to-know/16-product-customization Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted July 26, 2012 I'd like to hear a little more about the alternate ways of finishing as well. Would the "wax" finish described on Bianchi's page be talking about a polish type finish? Aren't shoe polishes wax based? I also read somewhere that a liquid wax finish was used. I didn't see anything like that on Tandy's website. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted July 26, 2012 Sno seal tends to stiffen the leather up a bit. Have you tried that on anything. I like it, it is easy to get and is cheap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
evandailey Report post Posted July 27, 2012 I frequently use Montana Pitch Blend as my final finish. It is a wax, oil, pitch combination. It is as good of a waterproofer as the 50/50 acrylic. It is easy to apply by just rubbing it in at room temperature. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted July 27, 2012 Yep if you can get it locally it's great. I have to order it here. It does have a pine smell that some don't care for. Sno seal tends to darken the leather just a bit and MPB doesn't. MPB doesn't do much to harden the leather though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted July 27, 2012 I heard many years ago that Sno-Seal degraded stitching over time. I heeded the warning so can't confirm or deny it. It does contain mineral spirits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted July 27, 2012 found this doing a search..... Nikwax Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted July 27, 2012 I have some of the Leather Balm with Atom Wax and really like it - but, it REALLY pulls up the dye and muddies up my stitching. Perhaps I'm just rubbing it too much as I apply it and need to change my application method. I've been rubbing it on with a cloth in circular motions and letting it dry before buffing it. I've seen a lot of people recommend Sno-Seal, but I've never looked at it before. I wasn't aware it's a beeswax product. Montana Pitch Blend sounds good too. I'll look into all of them - thanks for the suggestions! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdb Report post Posted July 27, 2012 There is an old method, using a mixture of melted mink, neats, and beeswax. Dunk or brush on. Then heat in an oven. I used to use it in the 70s. It really hardened up after heating. Worked really well on knife sheaths. There is a learning curve to the mixture, and application. Too much of a good thing, sort of. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UberSquid Report post Posted July 30, 2012 What about just Neatsfoot oil and Beeswax? it's easy to make and apply and is water resistant as long as you reapply once a year or so. It's 100% natural, doesn't change the color of the leather much if at all and it's got a long history behind it. It won't ruin your stitching, doesn't leave a chemical odor and did I mention that it's easy? Personally it's my favorite if I'm looking for a mat finish. I made up 8 ounces of the stuff a while back and it lasts forever. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted July 31, 2012 I have John Bianchi's three disk DVD set - "The Art & Secrets of Advanced Western Holster Making" from 2006. For the finish dressing, he refers to the finish coat as "Tandy's leather coat finish dressing" and as "several coats of Tandy harness dressing leather finish". He uses sheep's wool to apply it and has whatever the product is in it is in an after market container that is not labelled. Whatever it is, he puts on several coats. I looked at Tandy's website, but am not sure which finish Bianchi is referring to. The video is only a couple years old, so I'd think Tandy still carries the stuff. Maybe Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmirob Report post Posted July 31, 2012 I would try to persuade the customer to allow you to finish the holster as you normally would. There is a reason for it and most customers may have a tough time understanding the why behind what we do. Try to share that with them and the downside of not doing so. You can still put a final finish with wax. Veg tanned without sealer lends itself to moisture issues in the near future. IMHO. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted July 31, 2012 What about just Neatsfoot oil and Beeswax? it's easy to make and apply and is water resistant as long as you reapply once a year or so. It's 100% natural, doesn't change the color of the leather much if at all and it's got a long history behind it. It won't ruin your stitching, doesn't leave a chemical odor and did I mention that it's easy? Personally it's my favorite if I'm looking for a mat finish. I made up 8 ounces of the stuff a while back and it lasts forever. can you explain how you mix this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted July 31, 2012 I have John Bianchi's three disk DVD set - "The Art & Secrets of Advanced Western Holster Making" from 2006. For the finish dressing, he refers to the finish coat as "Tandy's leather coat finish dressing" and as "several coats of Tandy harness dressing leather finish". He uses sheep's wool to apply it and has whatever the product is in it is in an after market container that is not labelled. Whatever it is, he puts on several coats. I looked at Tandy's website, but am not sure which finish Bianchi is referring to. The video is only a couple years old, so I'd think Tandy still carries the stuff. Maybe Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax??? I should recieve that set any day now. I was hoping to find out what he uses. I have a guy that I'm making a western rig for and I want something that'll be flexible and not too glossy. i've been doing some google searches on making belts instead of holsters, and a few of the guys are using the Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax. I think there's so many options out there, it's gonna be hard to decide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted July 31, 2012 The old fashioned bees wax / neatsfoot oil recipe is really easy: equal parts of each, . . . by weight !!!!! Put in a glass jar, . . . put the glass jar in water in a crock pot, . . . go have some coffee and a doughnut or two, . . . come back when the wax is melted and you have only liquid in the glass jar. Pour that liquid into something like cupcake papers (in a muffin pan) and allow it to THOROUGHLY cool. You use it similar to Kiwi shoe polish, . . . I usually rub it in with my fingers, . . . judiciously use a WARM heat gun to help melt it a bit, . . . takes about 3 good applications, . . . it actually is MY favorite finish, . . . but it is not as durable as the acrylics. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted July 31, 2012 I found a quick way to make / melt wax finishes is to use one of those pitchers with the internal heat plate. You can get one at any X-mart of your choice. They are around 15 -20 bucks, and boil water about 60% faster than a microwave. I've used this method for hide glue and wood finishes for years and it works fantastic for any oil/wax combination. Just save and clean a soup can or whatever size can will fit in the pitcher to melt your potion in, and pull it out of the hot water with pliers. Jake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted August 1, 2012 I frequently use Montana Pitch Blend as my final finish. It is a wax, oil, pitch combination. It is as good of a waterproofer as the 50/50 acrylic. It is easy to apply by just rubbing it in at room temperature. Montana Pitch blend web site shows several products is it the MPB cream that you use and does the pine smell go away? Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
evandailey Report post Posted August 1, 2012 (edited) Montana Pitch blend web site shows several products is it the MPB cream that you use and does the pine smell go away? Scott I use their Leather Dressing. The pine smell does fade. Edited August 1, 2012 by evandailey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted August 1, 2012 I use MPB all the time, both the dressing and the oil. I ask customers if the pine scent is objectionable before treating, if it is, I use Pecard's instead. MPB is all natural and is antimicrobial, Pecard's is not. They both work great, but don't overdo either, only go for a second coat if the first coat is absorbed in less than an hour. Don't even think about another coat for 6 months (outside in Arizona) to a year. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted August 1, 2012 Do you use Neutral Kiwi on top of the MPB or do you just use the MPB and leave it at that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted August 1, 2012 After it thoroughly dries, I use Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax and buff up to a shine, however Kiwi would also work. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 3, 2012 anyone used this yet? i'm using the professional dyes now and really like them. would this creme be a final top coat? Tandy Professional Creme Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregintenn Report post Posted August 5, 2012 I actually finished this one with paste car wax. I've carried it quite a bit for several years now, and it's seemed to have held up as well as those finished with acrylic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted August 6, 2012 Alright, after several attempts, I think I got it. I went and bought a thing of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax Saturday. After reading where a few people said it pulls the dye up, I was worried that I'd have orange tinted thread. This was just a sample piece where one side is just dyed, and the other I applied the Atom Wax with a foam brush. I "patted" it on vice rubbing it in. Then buffed with sheep's wool. I think I'll try airbrushing it on for large pieces. The dye is the Tandy Professional Tan. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
