rgerbitz Report post Posted July 29, 2008 Here it is my first roo hide piece. It has a twisted rawhide core braided over with rawhide then with the roo. To make a 1/2, 12 plait bosal with a 20 plait nose button and a over 5 pattern on the heel knot. The side buttons are spanish ring knots of three passes. I used vaquero rawhide cream on the strings while braiding,( that I bought from Opagon) worked great. On the nose button I braided an over one braid down then turn both ends back. There are a few things that I will do different next time, and I will see if anyone can see what that may be! Thank you all for the help in the previous months with the info and encouragement I have really enjoyed working with the roo. I would appreciate any pointers as to what might have been done differently or better. Thank you Rob Gerbitz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roo4u Report post Posted July 29, 2008 your braiding looks pretty good... i personally like a little swell in my nose button and a little different shape to the heel knot. things done differently? im wondering about the spacing of your noseband at the heel knot...was there a reason you made such a wide spacing? and i would have probably put a ring knot just above the heel knot to keep the noseband from stretching the top of the heel knot braid when its shaped and such. im glad you enjoyed the roo. after working onlywith the roo for so long im finding learning the rawhide a rough road. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Bell Report post Posted July 29, 2008 Hey Roo4u, I'll go ahead and answer for Rob since it is probably the same reason I have begun doing it this way. I used to put a ring knot above the heel knot to keep from stretching the heel knot strands at the top of the knot too. Now, I realize that if I put a spacer in the heelknot then the top of the knot is already "stretched" and I have avoided the problem. It also makes it easier to shape the bosal later on as that gap the spacer creates there spreads the cheeks at the apex which make a bigger difference further up the cheek where the shaping actually happens AND when you insert the 'mota' or tail end of your mecate rope in the space it will not distort your mecate as badly as it would without the spacer in there creating room for the mecate to set in. Mo' Betta'! Vaya Con Dios, Alan Bell Though we bear our burdens now all our afflictions will have to end some how. From swinging the hammer to pulling the plow. Bob Marley - Hallelujah Time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rgerbitz Report post Posted July 31, 2008 Thank you Roo4u, I agree that a little swell seems to look better but this is what was ordered. And Alan had it about right for why the spacer was there. The only thing I can add to that is that it also allows for someone to add more weight to the heel not later on if desired. By drilling out a hole in the spacer and adding some lead shot. I still like the rawhide better and if there is anything that I might be able to help you with please don't hesitate to ask. Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jwwright Report post Posted August 3, 2008 Hey Rob..........speaking as someone who has spent his life using hackamores.........let me say that this looks like a good using bosal. There are so many being made today that are made well from a braider's point of view, but don't function properly. I especially like the plug in the heel knot, and no ring knot above it. The nose button with no swell to it should also function correctly. Many folks don't realize that to function correctly, a hackamore needs to have as much even contact around the horse's face as possible. Think of it as it needs to fit on a horse like a properly fitting hat fits your head. The only thing I might offer as a suggestion is perhaps making the nose button just a bit shorter. Also.......what is the length of this bosal, inside, nose button to heel button. Great job! JW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites