Some Recent Work

[chiefjason]

Well, I got my first official request for an all leather holster recently. I've since had another. Till now I've either built them just for me or built it and hoped it would sell. I had a guy ask me to do an IWB for a Glock 23. I modeled it off of the last holster I built for my G19, but modified it to take clips. The customer requested clips to make it easier to remove. So here it is. Hermann Oak 8-9 oz leather, vinegroon, and hand stitched.

I already had an OWB started for a J frame revolver. First leather revolver holster for me. With the barrel length I went ahead and did the pancake instead of open bottom beltslide. Looking at the picture it certainly would not have hurt to have moved the stitch line above the sight in a decent amount. Note to self, tighten that up next time.

This one was really interesting. An old German police pistol that a buddy of mine bought. It's got both FNH and CZ markings along with a small eagle and swatstika above the chamber. He asked me to make a holster for it. I was originally supposed to make a holster for his 1911. He managed to score both the Model 27 and a 1911 made in 1919 from the same guy. Some guys have all the luck. Oddly enough I had a holster for the Kahr CW9 laying around that I was not happy with. He stuck the 1911 in it and it actually fit fairly well. He took that one too. He's happy so I'm happy.

[mogwild]

Very nice. Like the revolver one, great work.

[katsass]

From the old grump: They look pretty good --- but --- you still need to get your stitch lines closer to the shooter. Mike

[chiefjason]

From the old grump: They look pretty good --- but --- you still need to get your stitch lines closer to the shooter. Mike

Yeah, the Glock gives me some fits on that trigger guard. I've tried tapping on the back of the gun to seat it and tapping on the bottom of the holster with the back of the slide on a table. Tapping on the holster seemed to do better, but that gap on the bottom is still too big. And I'm not surprised much with the j frame since it's the first shot at a revolver. The dimensions are not as even as an auto so I figured there may be some problems. That one could use some tightening all the way around. Going to tweak the pattern for later. I think that little Model 27 is about the tightest fit I've gotten so far. I was starting to wonder whether it would be too small.

[joshk]

I gotta agree with Mike.... they look pretty good, but those stitch lines need to be tightened up quite a bit.... especially in the front of the trigger guard.... if you're hammering the models into the rig the trigger guard should be bottoming out against the surrounding stitch line.... my advice, in addition to the trigger guard stitching, would be to not leave so much excess at the end of the muzzle and shorten the stitch lines around the muzzle as well....

here's a little quick editing and a side by side pic with the Glock rig to give you a better idea what I'm talking about.... the stitch line was moved closer to the trigger guard and the excess material/stitching cleaned up a bit....

Edited August 11, 2012 by joshk

[chiefjason]

Josh, I see what you are getting at. I think if the trigger guard had ended up where I wanted it, the excess would have been taken up as well. I probably need to do some more measurements. I've been using 1/2" space around the gun for the pocket. It seems to be fine everywhere but in front of that trigger guard. Any tighter on the other ones and I don't know if I could even get the gun in there. Basically, it goes in OK but stops even short of where it is there. It got there by hammering the leather over the gun. Maybe I need a bigger hammer. lol Thanks for the input guys.

[D Fingers]

Getting the gun to seat that last half inch can be a maddening process, one that has almost left me in tears or chucking the whole thing across the garage. If you keep at it though you can get it.

[Denster]

Getting the gun to seat that last half inch can be a maddening process, one that has almost left me in tears or chucking the whole thing across the garage. If you keep at it though you can get it.

Might want to try using a forming stick to open and stretch the holster before inserting the gun. Makes life so much easier.

[chiefjason]

Might want to try using a forming stick to open and stretch the holster before inserting the gun. Makes life so much easier.

Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. Gonna have to remember that one for sure. Thanks.

[D Fingers]

1344710628[/url]' post='260100']

Might want to try using a forming stick to open and stretch the holster before inserting the gun. Makes life so much easier.

Yeah I learned a while ago to run the handle of my mallet down into the holster to open it up, but difficulties still exist. I like them tight I guess.

[Denster]

A mallet handle makes a poor forming stick , wrong shape, but better than nothing I guess.

[D Fingers]

I guess I'm not familiar with the forming stick technique.

[Shooter McGavin]

I use this to open up my pancake holsters. Works great for mag carriers as well. Slide side and muzzle get the big end, trigger guard gets the small end.

http://www.tandyleat...ts/8121-00.aspx

[renegadelizard]

I usually end up doing 2 stitch lines for blocks as I can never get them to seat all the way in...in fromt of the trigger guard I usually sew a little block shape after forming...

[D Fingers]

1344738956[/url]' post='260136']

I use this to open up my pancake holsters. Works great for mag carriers as well. Slide side and muzzle get the big end, trigger guard gets the small end.

http://www.tandyleat...ts/8121-00.aspx

Yeah I could use one of those.