Leather Cracking At Fold

[TomG]

I just finished a Tandy purse kit and the final step was to fold over the top flap.

Bloody thing cracked across the top!!!!

I cased (Peter Main method), carved and tooled. Then dyed using the new Tandy Professional waterstain. Applied a light coat of neutral leather balm with atom wax. Antiqued with Feibings antiquing. After dry I laid down 2 very light coats of 50/50 diluted Resolene with a airbrush.

Next day, put on a couple of coatings of mink oil paste on the flesh side of everything. Then assembled.

All looked and felt great until I bent that flap over.

Anyone have any clues as to why this might have happened? Personally, I'm thinking old, dry leather and that I should have maybe used NFO... but I didn't want to darken it.

Clues? Ideas??

[LNLeather]

Did you get the leather wet before you folded it over?

[mlapaglia]

After tooling its always a good idea to oil the leather to replenish the oils that are removed by casing and tooling. Olive oil of Neetsfoot oil are some of the best things to use. Lexol is also a good choice. The Leather balm with atom wax really isnt any good to replenish the leather and keep it soft and supple. It is also a good idea to set the main bend area with the leather damp so it can stretch rather than crack. Did the leather crack or was it the finish that cracked? Resolene can crack if its on too thick.

If it was the leather than even old dry leather will be usable if you treat it with neetsfoot oil or olive oil before you bend it. On old leather I treat it with neetsfoot oil, then tool it and then give it another coat of neetsfoot oil before I start with the dye and finish.

If you do not want to darken the leather than use olive oil or Lexol conditioner. Neither will darken the leather as much as neetsfoot oil.

What was the purpose of the Mink oil paste?

[TomG]

Did you get the leather wet before you folded it over?

Nope. It had dried, been dyed, antiqued, waxed and oiled from the back with mink oil.

I didn't know how wetting the interior would affect all of the finishing on the front. Especially since it had already had the mink oil applied.

[mlapaglia]

Lightly spraying the flesh side along the bend line normally does not affect the finish as you are not getting it that wet.

Sounds the biggest mistake was not making the bend before the finish. Its always best to make sure all the bends and fits work correctly before applying the finish. I personally think mink oil is for squeaky minks and not leather but that is a personal opinion. Other people love it.

Can we see a picture of how bad it cracked? maybe there is a fix.

Edited August 11, 2012 by mlapaglia

[TomG]

After tooling its always a good idea to oil the leather to replenish the oils that are removed by casing and tooling. Olive oil of Neetsfoot oil are some of the best things to use. Lexol is also a good choice. The Leather balm with atom wax really isnt any good to replenish the leather and keep it soft and supple. It is also a good idea to set the main bend area with the leather damp so it can stretch rather than crack. Did the leather crack or was it the finish that cracked? Resolene can crack if its on too thick.

If it was the leather than even old dry leather will be usable if you treat it with neetsfoot oil or olive oil before you bend it. On old leather I treat it with neetsfoot oil, then tool it and then give it another coat of neetsfoot oil before I start with the dye and finish.

If you do not want to darken the leather than use olive oil or Lexol conditioner. Neither will darken the leather as much as neetsfoot oil.

What was the purpose of the Mink oil paste?

Well, I feel the Resolene was not the cracking item. I dilute it 50/50 with water and I used a mist type spray from my airbrush. Let it dry and made a second light coat. I looked like the leather actually cracked.

I've used NFO before but usually on belts that are darker shades. I have some Lexol 4-way but haven't done much with it so far.

I mainly use the Leather balm applied like a block dye, as a top sealer to block the antiquing from darkening the leather. I only want it (antiquing) in the impressions. Although it does do a little softening, it's mainly on the surface from my experience.

I guess I need to play with the NFO some more and see how it works first hand. I've never even heard of oiling before tooling!. How does it affect the water used for casing?

As for the mink oil paste, it's mink oil in a paste form. The mink oil liquid, like the NFO, can easily be applied too heavily and change the color or shade of the leather. The paste form makes it much easier to apply the oil evenly and consistently. I mainly use it on my collar, leashes, belts, bracelets and other strap try products. It takes a stiff strip of finished leather and makes it soft and limp as a noodle....

Wh`at about wetting after all of this is done. is it recommended? How wet... won't it affect the dye/stain??

[mlapaglia]

Well, I feel the Resolene was not the cracking item. I dilute it 50/50 with water and I used a mist type spray from my airbrush. Let it dry and made a second light coat. I looked like the leather actually cracked.

I've used NFO before but usually on belts that are darker shades. I have some Lexol 4-way but haven't done much with it so far.

I mainly use the Leather balm applied like a block dye, as a top sealer to block the antiquing from darkening the leather. I only want it (antiquing) in the impressions. Although it does do a little softening, it's mainly on the surface from my experience.

I guess I need to play with the NFO some more and see how it works first hand. I've never even heard of oiling before tooling!. How does it affect the water used for casing?

As for the mink oil paste, it's mink oil in a paste form. The mink oil liquid, like the NFO, can easily be applied too heavily and change the color or shade of the leather. The paste form makes it much easier to apply the oil evenly and consistently. I mainly use it on my collar, leashes, belts, bracelets and other strap try products. It takes a stiff strip of finished leather and makes it soft and limp as a noodle....

Wh`at about wetting after all of this is done. is it recommended? How wet... won't it affect the dye/stain??

I only suggest oiling before tooling when the leather is REALLY old and REALLY dry. Normally its done after tooling and before dying.

If you wet lightly before you bend you should have no problem. The point is to do it before you dye and finish. This way the leather is all stretched and ready for its normal posistion. I ofter do any bending right after the tooling while the leather is still cased. That way it does not have to be wet again. It all depends on how you want to do it. Just remember that one of the last things you normally do with a project is dye and finish. Burnishing the edges is in that part too.

[Sylvia]

LOL Squeaky Minks.

[TomG]

Lightly spraying the flesh side along the bend line normally does not affect the finish as you are not getting it that wet.

Sounds the biggest mistake was not making the bend before the finish. Its always best to make sure all the bends and fits work correctly before applying the finish. I personally think mink oil is for squeaky minks and not leather but that is a personal opinion. Other people love it.

Can we see a picture of how bad it cracked? maybe there is a fix.

Let's see if I can get a couple to stick here

[mlapaglia]

Let's see if I can get a couple to stick here

Ouch. That is bad. You could replace the entire piece or make a piece that would

cover the cracked section. Tool it up nice so it fits with the rest of

the purse. Your other option is to deglaze the entire piece and redye

it so the dye gets in the cracks. The best option I know of is to replace that panel.

Hopefully someone will have a better idea.

If it was my product I'd cut the flap off before the. Bend and sew a new piece to the back.

Maybe do a decorative cut on the edge so it looked good and dyed it like the rest.

Problem is if it looks like carp the you have to replace the entire piece.

We all have things in the scrap box that still hurt to look at. I have a holster

that was almost done and I noticed I had forgotten to sew a clip holder in place.

No way to fix it but start over. 3 hours and a great piece of leather shot to heck.

If that is a Tandy kit take it back and get them to rea e the leather if you purchased

It reciently.

[JLSleather]

I'm guessing this was already cracked and just wasn't visible until the bending. The bend isn't that sharp, and even dry as a bone I can't see THAT bend causing a crack. Personally, I'd ask the store if this is the type of thing they want to advertise. Guy at the Tandy may not have even known about it himself, but they should be willing to replace it.

With a replacement, you're still out the time invested. But that's the way I'd go, instead of being out that time, plus the time of repairing, and then still having the crack in the grain. I'd ask the store to replace it and start over. Just my OP.

[particle]

Since its almost toast at this point, try rubbing over it with a dauber that has almost no dye left in it and see if you can build up the color. Then, seal it with a light coat over the cracked area - maybe even with Fiebings Leather Balm With Atom Wax. I've had this happen when making a journal cover with Tandy leather. Cracked right at the fold. Skiving away material on the backside would prevent that.

[TomG]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I think I'm going to cut a decorative piece, form it and sew it in place of that bend as mlapaglia suggested.

[GoldenKnight]

Since its almost toast at this point, try rubbing over it with a dauber that has almost no dye left in it and see if you can build up the color. Then, seal it with a light coat over the cracked area - maybe even with Fiebings Leather Balm With Atom Wax. I've had this happen when making a journal cover with Tandy leather. Cracked right at the fold. Skiving away material on the backside would prevent that.

( PLEASE EXCUSE ALL CAPS - MY KEYBOARD IS STUCK/BROKEN)

I HAVE HAD A FEW KITS FROM TANDY CRACK ON ME TOO, WHEN I FIRST STARTED DOING SOME PROJECTS. THE FLAP OF A LITTLE COIN CASE AND THE FOLD OF A KEY FOB IN THE SAME KIT. AFTER THAT, I BOUGHT VEG-TANNED LEATHER AND USED THE TANDY KIT PIECES AS MY TEMPLATES TO MAKE MORE PROJECTS. THOSE TURNED OUT BETTER. I RECENTLY BOUGHT LEATHER FROM WICKETT & CRAIG ... WOW! NOW THAT'S THE AQUALITY I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR. FOR SIZE, PRICE, AND HIGH AQUALITY, IT BEATS TANDY'S LEATHER QUALITY ON MANY LEVELS. CHECK OUT THE W&C BELLIES. AMAZING QUALITY, PRICE AND COLOR CHOICES.