Highlands858 Report post Posted August 16, 2012 I've made about five wallets now, mostly the same style. The first things people seem to say when they check my wallets out are: A. The wallet doesn't open up the whole way (doesn't lay flat.) B. The wallet interior doesn't separate enough from the wallet back to get the bills out. I've heard from a couple of different people that wallets aren't designed to lay flat or open up the whole way, but since lots of people are commenting that they'd rather the wallet opened all the way, is there a style I can move toward to make wallets for those people? About getting the bills out, I use 2-3 oz. tooling leather for my wallet guts, usually just two layers including the long interior piece that gets stitched onto the wallet back. The bills are hard to get out both before and after any cards go into the wallet. Works fine for me, but the interior just isn't as "flappy" as a store-bought wallet would be, it seems. Is this a problem with materials, construction, design, conditioning, "wearing in," or what? Any tips for getting the wallet to flap open more easily? Thanks in advance for any and all responses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted August 16, 2012 You may be making the wallet too short. Make another one and add a half inch to the overall length to see if that helps. I don't see it as a problem, but the customer is always right you know. Do you glue the interior in place while it's folded? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRodz Report post Posted August 17, 2012 Highlands,I think it might be a market/customer issue. Comparing a tooled or carved veg tan back plus a couple layers of thin veg tan leather to a commercial wallet made with garment leather is comparing apples to oranges. For one, the back of most commercial wallets is as thick as your lining leather and the lining leather in those wallets is probably only about 1 oz. if not less (paper thin). Your wallets may be just fine after they break in. As an extreme example, I make biker wallets with a 5/6 oz. back, 2 gussetts of 3/4 oz., and a full length pocket on top with an ID window. Needless to say, it is a brick but after oiling and breaking in the guys love them. For my bi-folds and tri-fold, I use 3/4, 4/5, or 5/6 back and 1/2, 2/3, or 3/4 on the insides. Roper wallets are made with the same thicknesses as the tri-folds and bi-folds. However, my stuff goes to guys who ride, drive, or build for a living and who like things as rugged and tough as their lives. I can't see the guy with the designer clothes and fancy sportscar buying one of those wallets. For that guy I would use different leather and a different style wallet. Best of luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Highlands858 Report post Posted August 17, 2012 Thanks for the advice and input. I glue the interior into place when the wallet is open, just folded enough so that the edges of the interior and the back line up. I think I'm going to experiment with the size of my interior and possibly buy some thinner lining material to see if that changes things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted August 18, 2012 (edited) There are some liners that are basically 3 pieces, the two ends, and a central piece that floats in slots in the end pieces. The central section is not glued or sewen to the wallet back. There is a pattern posted here that I noticed a while ago that could be adapted to the style of interior you want. Then it can open flat and fold without bunching up. You will need to search for it. I would say it came up within tha past month or 2. Try wallet pattern. CTG Edited: found it. Pattern Edited August 18, 2012 by northmount Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
