Premium Calf Hide For Bullet Looping?

[Bobby hdflame]

I use 4 oz or so veg tan in my bullet loops, . . . do not sew them, . . . loop out and back through the same hole. Rivets hold the ends, . . . and it is always contact cememted to the liner.

Always do em wet, . . . use actual bullet for sizing, shaping, etc.

I use a 7/8 in wide strap pulling through a 3/4 in strap punch hole, . . . have never had any problems with it.

Sometimes the first few loops are a bit tough, . . . but after it dries, . . . gets dyed, finished, etc.. . . they always look good to me, . . . customers are happy.

Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks Dwight! That's sounds like a unique way of doing them. Do you leave the bullets in place until it dries, then glue the liner on before removing the bullets?

I assume that doing it wet pre stretches the leather?

I haven't made a Western holster yet but have been watching the video by John Bianchi. He shows sewing them with a rivet or concho on each end, ending the bullet loop on the back side so the end doesn't show.

Is there a benefit or advantage to the way you do it over sewing? I just got my new Cobra, so I'm not hand stitching if that's the advantage. Thanks again.

Edited September 2, 2012 by Bobby hdflame

[Dwight]

Thanks Dwight! That's sounds like a unique way of doing them. Do you leave the bullets in place until it dries, then glue the liner on before removing the bullets?

I assume that doing it wet pre stretches the leather?

I haven't made a Western holster yet but have been watching the video by John Bianchi. He shows sewing them with a rivet or concho on each end, ending the bullet loop on the back side so the end doesn't show.

Is there a benefit or advantage to the way you do it over sewing? I just got my new Cobra, so I'm not hand stitching if that's the advantage. Thanks again.

As far as the bullets go, . . . I usually pull them all out after I have riveted down both ends. By that time, . . . the sizing, forming, etc. has all been done, . . . and most of the stretching/shrinking has also taken place.

I come back after dyeing & finishing and re-insert the bullets to make sure nothing has changed. Invariably, one loop will have tried to shrink on me, . . . but that is usually the worst.

As far as advantage, . . . just a personal note, . . . I wouldn't give anyone two whoops for a sewn cartridge belt. I've owned em in the past, . . . doubt that one will ever grace my place again. I also refuse to make them for my customers. When they see my personal black rig, . . . that is usually enough, . . .

And, . . . I can usually do a 24 loop section of a belt in just about 45 minutes, . . . that is from a blank belt back and piece of loop strap, . . . to a cartridge belt, punched, looped, and riveted, . . . drying so it can be finished up.

May God bless,

Dwight

[SooperJake]

Loop out the back through the same hole??

Having trouble picturing that Dwight. Are you say you do not sew between each loop?

Jake

I use 4 oz or so veg tan in my bullet loops, . . . do not sew them, . . . loop out and back through the same hole. Rivets hold the ends, . . . and it is always contact cememted to the liner.

Always do em wet, . . . use actual bullet for sizing, shaping, etc.

I use a 7/8 in wide strap pulling through a 3/4 in strap punch hole, . . . have never had any problems with it.

Sometimes the first few loops are a bit tough, . . . but after it dries, . . . gets dyed, finished, etc.. . . they always look good to me, . . . customers are happy.

Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Dwight]

You can look on this post, . . . and see every stitch I put in my belt loops.

Look at the enclosed pictures, . . . these are my 3D note pads I refer to when I am making a cartridge belt.

At 67+, . . . somethimes the memory ain't worth a dime, . . . so I have cheaters. These are mine. This is how I do it.

Yep, . . . the little ones are for .22's and the big ones are for .44 or .45.

May God bless,

Dwight

[SooperJake]

Now it makes sense..Thanks!

Jake