First-Timer In Need Of Help With Pattern

[samcolt45]

Greetings,

I'm new to the forum, and have been making holsters off and on for a few years. An uncle past away recently, and I in herited his leather and leather-working tools.

Recently I've been wanting to get back into making holsters, and Iintend on designing a pattern for a snub-nose Colt New Service of mine that's a Fitz Special conversion.

My pattern is similar to that of a Yaqui slide, but being wheelchair bound, the zero, or neutral cant common to that design won't work for me. The same can be said with an FBI cant, which I believe is

15 degrees. I've been told by a friend of mine( who is a holster maker that has been trying to take me under his wing and help me in my quest) that I'd be better with something around 25 degrees,

But after reading Stoelmann's book on holster making, his method for derterming holster cant is unclear, and for some reason my friend, who is elderly, keeps telling me to hold the front edge of the folded pattern up to a door and draw the angle I want.

Needless to say, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Bob Boyd

Samcolt45

[samcolt45]

Greetings,

I'm new to the forum, and have been making holsters off and on for a few years. An uncle past away recently, and I in herited his leather and leather-working tools.

Recently I've been wanting to get back into making holsters, and Iintend on designing a pattern for a snub-nose Colt New Service of mine that's a Fitz Special conversion.

My pattern is similar to that of a Yaqui slide, but being wheelchair bound, the zero, or neutral cant common to that design won't work for me. The same can be said with an FBI cant, which I believe is

15 degrees.

I've been told by a friend of mine( who is a holster maker that has been trying to take me under his wing and help me in my quest) that I'd be better with something around 25 to 30 degrees,

But after reading Stoelmann's book on holster making, his method for derterming holster cant is unclear, and for some reason my friend, who is elderly, keeps telling me to hold the front edge of the folded pattern up to a door and draw the angle I want with my protractor.

Needless to say, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Bob Boyd

Samcolt45

Edited September 19, 2012 by samcolt45

[TwinOaks]

Instead of worrying about a specific angle, put the gun/holster where you'll have it (presumably on either your belt or your chair), and use a ruler or such to find either Horizontal or Vertical. Either will work as a base line so you can replicate the angle. Then, build your holster to suit YOU, and not someone else's idea of what angle you should have. I think you'll be more satisfied with the results. Once you have it where you want it, you can see what angle it actually is.

When I make holsters for my customers for the first time, I have them try out several different mock ups at set angles to see what's most comfortable...then I build on that and have them 'adjust' the angle ( wider belt slots with alignment marks, and using the gun as the pivot point) to best suit them. I find this to MUCH more marketable than " you have a choice of 3 angles", and have garnered repeat business because of it.

Backing up a paragraph....to find the holster angle, simply measure the angle (from 90 deg) of the 'front' of the holster which typically is pretty straight. To make the holster at that angle, you simply keep the holster in place and mark a "horizontal" line where the belt loops (or other attachment method) will be. In a sense, you're measuring the angle of the bore axis from vertical....but since it's trickier to do with just a barrel, I use the top of the gun.

[SooperJake]

I think angle depends on the shooter's preference, body type, and the gun itself. An angle of 15°-17° on a belt slide for my XD works nicely. My LCP lays better at 20°, and gives me a more exposed grip that is easier to grab.

As an aside, a snubby without a trigger guard makes me nervous.

TwinOaks has some good ideas there. Mental note...

Jake

[katsass]

For what it's worth from a grumpy old guy: I agree with T.O. that in that trying to replicate a precise angle, described by someone else, is a difficult proposition. Also, that saying a specific angle is "what you need", is more or less a bunch of , uh, STUFF. I work out how much angle my customer wants, or needs - more or less just by sight and talking with him. I then I draw a horizontal line on my paper (I use cheap manila folders) indicating the belt-line then proceed to draw the pattern with that as a guide. I lay the shooter on the paper at the angle wanted, lightly mark along the barrel side, make a fold in the paper following that mark, put the shooter back on the paper, aligning the top side of the shooter in the fold, lay it over on it's side, make my outline, and go to it. Probably clear as mud, but that's how I do things. In my day 'Fitz Specials' were not uncommon, and in my experience, as long as the trigger guard cut was right at the front edge of the trigger (as it should be) at the right angle, and smoothed properly, no problems arose, Good molding is necessary. Mike

Edited September 20, 2012 by katsass

[Dwight]

A couple years back, . . . I was teaching a holster making class at Tandy's, . . . and a young man in a wheel chair had your exact problem.

If I remember correctly, . . . he and I designed a cross draw rig with a thumb break, . . . that "kinda" looked like the Andrews "Carjacker" holster.

It had something more like a 60 degree cant, . . . but Jimmy could grab it in a heartbeat, . . . that is what counts most, I think, when we're talking CCW.

May God bless,

Dwight

[samcolt45]

Thanks for all the suggestions fellas. I think one of the reasons for the problem I'm having is- well, come to think of it, it's two problems: 1: unlike the Tandy book example, I'm unable to hold the pattern and pistol to my beltline at an angle to scribe the pattern, and 2: I'd prefer my pattern be all one piece and not contain a separate stitched on belt loop.

Any ideas.

Sam

[katsass]

For no separate loop, the old fashioned pouch holster is the way to go - like this little rig for my personal 'snubby'. Basically a single piece of leather cut, folded, stitched and molded. Mike

P.S. Maybe a little more info would help. Do you want it to be carried on your strong side, off side (crossdraw) or maybe mounted on your chair?

Edited September 21, 2012 by katsass

[samcolt45]

Thanks for the input Katass. My goal is to carry strongside. Last weekend, I cut my one-piece pattern with a 25-degree forward cant. I burnished, (which I'm starting to learn may have been premature at this juncture) beveled edges and I'm currently grooving my stitching lines.

I'm currently wondering where I should go from here (once I finish with the stich lines)? I understand dyeing the leather is going to be harder since I already burnished,but I know it will be easier prior to assembly. But I also want to bone/wet-mold.

My plan, unless someone suggests otherwise, is to dye, crease and assemble/ stitch it together, then wet mold?

Your thoughts?

Samcolt45

[katsass]

OK Sam, I cut my pattern out, dye it (if I'm going to), and since I use two layers of 4/5oz leather stuck together on their flesh sides I sand and burnish the toe, and the mouth (including the belt loop of the thing. I then groove for stitching those areas, mark the stitch holes and go to stitching. I stitch partially around the toe and then I stitch partially around the belt loop, then stitch it down in place. I wet the thing down, make the fold and allow to dry. Glue in the welt (if needed) glue those sides together, sand smooth, gouge my stitch line and go to stitching, matching in with the stitched toe. Finish sand the edge and burnish. Wet mold. Apply finish.

On yours, you just need to sand and burnish the mouth and toe areas, and around the belt loop, and since you are there now -- dye the thing. When good and dry, buff it well with a semi coarse cloth (soft denim works well) stitch the belt loop down, make the fold and glue it up, sand the edge, gouge your stitch line, and go to stitching. When done, wet again, allow to dry out a bit (case it) and do your molding, then burnish the edge. When dry, apply your finish. Mike

Edited September 27, 2012 by katsass