joeyrsmith Report post Posted September 29, 2012 With my first question ever on this forum. I want to say that I am new to leather working and pulled off my 1st iphone case with decent success. Question refers to thread. When I used Tandy for my supplies I really didnt know which to get. I got small rolls of artificial sinew and their 10pk stitching needles. After reading some of the posts on stitching and thread I am a little confused. I just want to start with small projects. Cases, Key Fobs, cell phone, wallets that kind of thing. Learning my way up to holsters and cycle stuff. So I guess I am asking for is, what is the basic proper setup of thread and needles for what I starting to do. Hit me with suggestions and the path to enlightenment. Thx and I am glad to have found you guys. JOey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted September 29, 2012 From the grumpy old guy: I learned to stitch (notice I didn't say 'sew') from an old WWI cavalry soldier back when I was a kid -- those lessons have done me well IMO. For stitching anything in leather (which isn't pre-punched for stitching/lacing) you need just a few tools. First, a good single bladed 'diamond' or 'stitching' or 'saddlers' awl, they are all the same thing, but with whatever name the maker wants to tag on them. Next, an adjustable stitching groover or gouge, then an 'overstitch' tool. A good general purpose sized overstitch is a #6 (six stitches per inch). Finally, harness needles and thread. I use #1 sized harness needles, but they range in size from 0000 (largest) to waaay down to # 5 or # 6 size (smallest). I don't suggest anything over a # 0 in size, and I prefer a #1. Regular (sewing) needles are way too sharp, and will create problems when using them. Harness needles are blunt tipped and are a bit more sturdy. I use waxed linen thread only. You can get it from a GOOD leather supply house (like Springfield Leather -- Google them and look through their stuff, They are good folks and there is no better in the customer service department IMO) in small spools for not much money -- comes generally in white, brown or black -- sometimes 'natural'. Now, don't mix this up with 'waxed thread' from Tandy - the stuff isn't the same, 'taint that good, and in my opinion, Tandy isn't near the same quality they were 40 or 50 years ago either. I will not use Tandy stuff anymore. An alternative to waxed linen is 'Nyltex' thread, I personally don't care much for synthetic threads, but it is used by many and is hell for strong. Artificial Sinew is mainly used for it's aesthetic value when making things look 'primitive', and is not generally a product used for good, solid stitching I might also suggest that you get the book "How to Sew Leather" by Al Stohlman. It's not much money for the information included therein. Good stitching takes time, concentration, and some practice, but well worth the effort, that again is in the opinion of this grumpy old fa, uh, man. Here's a pic of a bit of my hand stitching. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LNLeather Report post Posted September 29, 2012 That is some Fine Stitching! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeyrsmith Report post Posted September 29, 2012 Thx for the reply. Any more ideas? Or does katsass cover it good. With all that history its sounds great to me. What about punching with one of those 3-4 pronged deals? I have a set coming very soon. I used an old-fashioned awl from the hardware store for my 1st attempt. Not right I know. But I had all of the other supplies except the punch set. Could not wait, had to make something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted September 29, 2012 (edited) In the opinion of this old grump, use of those "3-4 pronged deals" just isn't too good of an idea. First off, the chisel tips stick in the leather and you have to work it back and forth to get it out -- thus, stretching the hell out of the edge of your project. If the leather is a bit too thick for the chisel, it will mark the leather and not leave a good appearance. You can't get nice neat ROUND corners - as they should be. Sharp, square corners in leatherwork is a no-no. Get a good awl, read the book I mentioned, learn to sharpen the awl (look up 'how to sharpen a stitching awl' on "You-Tube") and practice some. NOW, your final statement leads me to my standard statement to those I have tried to work with trying to teach them about working leather --- "slow the hell down and take your damned time!", this, along with a statement made by a much more polite lady than I ever was -- "Leatherwork is not for those seeking instant gratification" Mike Edited September 29, 2012 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted September 30, 2012 I use waxed nylon thread in white or black, it works with a saddler needle, size 0 or 00....the awl should be diamond shaped and most times I do pre punch my holes....there are many opinions on how to make a hole, my stuff never came appart nor did it fail....also if you can get ur hands on some affordable and small amounts of bonded nylon for machine sewing ( threadexchange) that works well too in size 207 or 277.... I have been hand stitching for 20 years and got tired of it....now a German lady does it for me...she is a knock out and so durable....her name is ADLER 105-64.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
