Members particle Posted October 4, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 4, 2012 My customer posted a few photos on another board. I'll go ahead and post them here since it shows the gun inside the holster. Looking back at the photos, I probably could have lowered it maybe 1/2". Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members Matt Alsaker Posted October 4, 2012 Members Report Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) I broke down and bought a press for setting the snaps a few months ago. I was having the same trouble and kept bending posts. I love the press, no more problems. I'd been using 6/7 oz leather for the straps until recently. I made one with 8/9 oz straps for a LEO friend, everyone who has seen the two prefers the 8/9 oz leather. I've permanently switched to that now. Your holsters are awesome as always. Edited October 4, 2012 by Matt Alsaker Quote http://www.alsakercustomleather.com/ https://www.facebook.com/AlsakerCustomLeather?ref=hl
Members particle Posted October 4, 2012 Author Members Report Posted October 4, 2012 I broke down and bought a press for setting the snaps a few months ago. Yeah, I need to buy a press too. Are you using the directional PTD snaps? If so, are you slicing a tiny slot for the protruding tab to stick down into the leather to keep it from turning? I use an alw and pierce a hole. Otherwise, the snap doesn't sit flat on the leather. I suppose I can try dampening the flesh side right before I set the snap. Not sure what the correct method is. Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members Matt Alsaker Posted October 4, 2012 Members Report Posted October 4, 2012 I use PTD snaps. With the press / dies I have not needed to make a slot for the tab. The dies hold everything nicely in place. The die presses the tab into the leather, keeping it from turning. I bought the press and dies from Weaver. The dies Weaver sends are from Tandy (I didn't know that at the time). I love the press, there is plenty of leverage and it is easy to get a feel of when the snap / rivet is set properly. I love the dies also, but if you are a member of Tandy's Wholesale Club you can get the dies cheaper directly from them. Quote http://www.alsakercustomleather.com/ https://www.facebook.com/AlsakerCustomLeather?ref=hl
Contributing Member SooperJake Posted October 5, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted October 5, 2012 Your 1911 holster looks great! The tooling is classy and the 2-tone look is very nice. If I had to nitpick, I'd say bring that dustcover stitch down by 1. Great as usual, though. The revolver holster is kind of oddly shaped, and I agree with what's been said; it doesn't look like your normal designs. It looks like it rides awfully high and I would abbreviate the mouthband. I think it's a tad large. I think it would look better if it came past the edge of the cylinder on the trigger side and stop. The bright white thread looks great, though. White thread is my favorite to use and always sets off the piece. When are you gonna quit using the Fiebings dye and use Angelus? You won't have any discolored thread once you do... Which black from Angelus do you prefer, Dick? Jake Quote Once you know what the magician know.... it isn't magic anymore.
Members dickf Posted October 5, 2012 Members Report Posted October 5, 2012 I use the Jet Black. It penetrates well, is evenly toned, and there's very little buffing required. I've never had any of the Angelus dye bleed off on thread or clothing. Their cordovan dye is really pretty, too. A single dip and you have the perfect even tone. Doesn't get much easier than that! Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
Members husker Posted October 5, 2012 Members Report Posted October 5, 2012 I'm curious about the Angelus dyes myself. I have been using the pro oil from Fieblings and have been pretty happy with it for the most part, but I airbrush it so I haven't had any issues with it coming out even, more of an issue of longevity, if they get a scratch in it the dye is only on the surface. When you dip dye are you diluting it or is it full stregth? Sorry about the spelling, can't get spellcheck to work. Quote
Members dickf Posted October 6, 2012 Members Report Posted October 6, 2012 It's full strength. I fully submerge the leather of my holsters/carriers in the dye and pull them right out. I don't let them sit in it. They're out of the bath as soon as they're wet. As you said, the airbrush is very even (that's why I bought one in 2009 to use solely for dye), but is merely painting dye on the very surface. There's not a whole lot of penetration, so scuffs and scratches will show through easier than on leather dip-dyed. Side note: I'm currently experimenting with yet another brand of dye along the same line as Angelus. Oddly, I don't think I've ever seen it mentioned in this forum. I'll post results after I've collected them. Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
Members Colt Hammerless Posted October 6, 2012 Members Report Posted October 6, 2012 Another brand of dye? Hmmmmm.......interesting! Please keep us posted! By the way dickf, I seem to recall that you also dip your work in your finish (Angelus 600.) Do you need different containers of finish for each color? Paul Quote
Members dickf Posted October 7, 2012 Members Report Posted October 7, 2012 Another brand of dye? Hmmmmm.......interesting! Please keep us posted! By the way dickf, I seem to recall that you also dip your work in your finish (Angelus 600.) Do you need different containers of finish for each color? Paul Hey Paul! Sure dont! It doesn't bleed, period. Maybe it's time for a dip dye video... Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
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