A Few Questions On Stitching With Linen Thread

[Northmount]

Some of the stitching in your examples is pulled way too tight so it is cutting into the leather and causing puckers. Were some of these wet when they were stiched?

On others, the taughtness of the thread seems to be random. Practise trying to pull up the same taughtness consistently. Thinner leather has to be treated a little more tenderly than thicker. If holes are too close together on thin leather, it is very easy to cut through the leather when pulling the thread tight.

How are you punching your holes? If using an awl, the awl should be angled so the little slots aren't point to point. I can't see from you pictures will enough to be sure what your method is. There have been a number of stitching questions in the past couple weeks and some really good advice given by the Old Grump and others. Do a couple searches to see their comments and instructions.

CTG

[katsass]

OK kwelna, first off, this grumpy old guy's mind just can't wrap itself around common usage of the metric system. I understand it in two areas - - our monetary system, and cartridge designation. For most of my stuff I use 5 or 7 strand (or 'cord') waxed linen threads. I don't particularly like synthetic threads, but Nyltex is a good synthetic thread if you are going in that direction. I generally use 6 spi (stitches per inch) as spacing. It's a good general purpose size. For smaller stuff I MAY go to 8 spi, and on really larger stuff (rifle scabbards) 5 spi. I also use a corresponding overstitch wheel.

As to your stitching, on these smaller things I don't use a groover - - it doesn't look as though you do either, but you seem to be applying a varying amount of tension to set each stitch. It appears to me that you are making a pretty large hole for the stitching OR, pulling the stitch so tight that it cuts between holes. I does seem that you are getting a good linear stitch, but It's also obvious that you are not using an overstitch tool.

I'm also wondering what kind of leather you are using, looking at your magazine holder, I see wrinkles - and that ain't good. . You need a good, firm leather like 'shoulder' leather for these projects IMO, and it appears to me that you may be using belly leather (which IMO isn't too good for much of anything I make) for your projects, or a poor quality of leather. Using the wrong type (or a poor quality) of leather can really frustrate a person.

From what I'm seeing it appears that you may have TWO problems - - the leather you are using (or quality thereof), and a lack of full understanding of the use of all tools and procedures needed for good stitching. I would suggest that you get Al Stohlman's book "How To Sew Leather", It's an old publication, inexpensive, still readily available, and it contains the true 'ins-and-outs' of doing this kind of work. Now, I'm definitely not trying to discourage you, or put down your efforts, but without looking you in the eye, having my grubby mitts on your work, growling in your ear, or slapping your hands, this is about all I can do. Hope this helps a little,

Edited October 6, 2012 by katsass

[kwelna]

To be totally honest, it was a little depressing to hear, but then again if no one tells me the truth, how will I know what needs improvement and how to improve. I am in the process of moving all of my leather working and glass lampworking equiptment back into the house for the winter, as well as switching out and updating my reloading bench(s). I am trying to make more room for this leather stuff. As soon as it is all back in order (in about a week) I hope to be back at it once again. So hang on as I am sure I will have more questions and ber looking for more honest opinions of my work as well as sugestions on what I can do to improve. Sans the hand slapping hopefully. Looks like I need to do and try a few different things.

Thansk again I do apprciate the honesty

[katsass]

The old grumpy guy back again - - with one question. Where are you obtaining your leather supplies? Mike

[kwelna]

tandy and sprinfield. tandy is handy but springfield has better prices ddn better leather. currently I am working off of a 2-3 soft handed leather and a 5-6 regular leather from springfield. most of my tools are tandy. Looks ike I need to upgrade my awl and awl blade first. I have been punching all the way through my pwices with their 6 prong diamond stiching chisel, it is the "finest" spacing that I could find at Tandy. but since my holes are too big , looks like I will have to start using my awl and a small blade. I will be buying a better awl and blade when funds free up. Until then I will try my hand at re shaping. polishing and sharpening a few Tandy awl blades I have layng around the house. SO do I want the entire awl knife sharp or just the tip?

[ramrod]

i used to think that the entire awl blade needed to be sharp. but others on this forum have written that only the point needs to be sharp - and crazy sharp at that!

that's pretty much how mine is now. and if you think about it, it makes sense - you really just need the penetration from the point and the blade will naturally follow. i'm overstating the obvious here, but you probably can understand that it makes sense.

[kwelna]

• yes it does, now all i need to do is cough up $100 for a new handle and blade and away I go , but in the mean time I can practice and play with cheaper awl blades from tandy. So much to learn , so little brain.....LOL
  

[David8386]

There was also on another thread about how you always want to penetrate the leather the same amount on every stitch. Someone, I do not remember who said to put leather washers on your awl to help make consistent sized holes and keep the awl tip super sharp. I have not stitched a lot but sharpening the awl tip helped me a lot and it was a cheap Tandy one. Good luck

David

[katsass]

From the grump; both ramrod and David have brought up good, viable points to help you out. Now, as I have said before, i was taught by a WWI cavalry soldier when I was a kid. He taught me - - contrary to anything else ever heard - - that when using the awl, you work it GENTLY, (most folks seem to jab with gusto) with your opposite thumb backing up the leather. You learn VERY quickly to ease the sharp damned thing into the leather, right where you want it, then get your thumb out of the way and open the hole only as far as you need.. It's a slower process, but you can be sure of placement and ultimately depth. Be sure that I had a tender thumb for a while, but now I can ease that pointy thing in 'till I just feel the tip, and don't get any blood showing. UH - it takes practice, painful practice and I'm not suggesting it.

As for an awl, mine is an old (around 40 years old) Osborne, single fixed blade. The handle has a flat side that I sanded into it which places my thumb in the same place every time I hold it. That, in turn, places the blade at the proper angle when I use it. I don't care much for the multi blade types. Mike

[kwelna]

When stitcing thicker items suach as Holsters, do you put a stitching groove on both sides? if so how do you ensure you hit the groove on the back side ? I am assumiong your answer is practice, but maybe there is bit of a trick for us newbies? I read somewhere that you ease the wl through till it is almost out the ther side and then adjust your angle to hit the stitching gooove. Does that sound about right? So that will kkep the stitches the coooect distance from the edge, but what about keeping the stitches even...... yes i know, practice but nay other trick(s) to this? I like the sanding teh handle to keep the angle of teh blade consistent, that is an excellent peice of advice.