A Few Questions On Stitching With Linen Thread

[katsass]

Well St8Line, 'bout all I can say is 'thanks'. I know that I don't do as many others, and that I was taught to stitch in a somewhat different way than others - - but, what the hell, it works for me. I use a Dremel with a 3/64" bit to teach beginning leather workers, and am damned sure that many stay with it instead of going on with the awl, as I show them, but, unless the bit is too damned big, I don't think there are many out there that can tell any difference. As far as I'm concerned, whatever cooks the rooster works for me. Thanks again. Mike

Edited October 9, 2012 by katsass

[St8LineGunsmith]

Mike

thats about the size bit i use too and a dremel and drill bit speeds up the stitching process 100 times faster

than stabbing through with an awl haft. many will argue but i think it makes a cleaner neater looking stitch line and

i find that you stand less of a chance cutting into the leather when pulling the stitch tight than with a diamond shaped

stitching awl. I do believe a stitching awl has its place but i am a lot more apt to using one for lacing than making a saddle stitch

Mike.

[kwelna]

Now you have me thinking even more, A dremmel with a 3/64 " bit..... I will try this as well. At least until I get a decent awl and blade.

[ramrod]

the one thing to keep in mind is that when you drill instead of use an awl, you're removing material from the leather with the drill bit. i personally don't like the thought of doing that. using an awl removes no material as it simply spreads the leather fibers aside.

[kwelna]

Alright, i am using less tension and it seems to be working, I have taken a awl blade and have shrank, reshaped and sharpened it. it does seem to be going through the leather better and smoother. I still need to ge a better \sharper point on the blade......when I have time that is. I have not had much time to practice so it will be a bit before I post another example of my stitching. Now, I am still confused on the thread and needles. I go to the sites suggested and I see the barbour thread but no size\weight is listed only cord count (3,4,5 etc). is it all the same base cord and the total thinkness is determined by the number of cords? Can some one please clarify this? Even down to stating "Go to this web site, buy this needle and this thread." I do beleive that I am using too big a thread and needle at this point.

Katsass, do you purchase your thread and needles from Springfield leather? as I said before I have been using the linen thread from Tandy and I find it a bit "chunky" and thick and not very round or thread like. It actually looks more like string than thread........Is this what all linen thread looks like? I will keep stitching and practicing and again I thank you all for your help and guidance.

Kevin

[katsass]

From the grump: YES - - NO - - YOU'RE WELCOME. Mike

[seanafk]

Hi Kevin,

I tried to answer some of your questions in more detail, I hope this helps (and more experienced folks, pls feel free to correct me):

I go to the sites suggested and I see the barbour thread but no size\weight is listed only cord count (3,4,5 etc). is it all the same base cord and the total thinkness is determined by the number of cords?

For Barbour's, essentially yes. They use the same base thickness of thread and then twist 2-12 of them together which yields the total thickness of thread. I snapped a picture of the 2ply to the 12 ply so you could see the thickness difference. Other brands of thread usually list their thickness in different ways.

Alright, i am using less tension and it seems to be working, I have taken a awl blade and have shrank, reshaped and sharpened it. it does seem to be going through the leather better and smoother. I still need to ge a better \sharper point on the blade......when I have time that is.

A super sharp awl is, as others suggest, very key. If it is dull, it will stretch the leather before piercing and you'll get saggy, inconsistent edges.

Also consider using a stitching/pricking iron or a stitching wheel. This will both help even out the spacing of your stitches but also pre-marks where each stitch goes. If the stitches are pre-marked with an an iron, you don't have to go 'fishing' for the other side of the stitch, the awl serves to just temporarily widen the hole until you put the needle through. Your awl ideally only goes through just to fit the needle through; less than 1/2" poking out the other side or wherever your awl stops tapering if you've made your own. Any more and it overly stretches the hole.

For wax, opinions vary but I usually count 5-6 passes over my wax button and it's fine to start. You can alway re-wax later. An indicator of not enough is that the thread starts to look fuzzy and unravel near the needle. An indicator of too much is when your hammering your stitches flat and you see a lot of wax coming off of the hammerhead. This takes bit of time to find the right balance.

Hope this didn't confuse you more and good luck!

Sean

[kwelna]

No that helps i am less confused......maybe down to disoriented?? LOL It all Helps and I am getting ready to do some more stitching this week endI ( I hope) I have been using a pricking iron to mak the locations, and trying to use the overstitch wheel after stitching......it tends to wander off the stitch line, although that seems to be an issue of the nut behind the tool...I am assuming you press down on the overstitch wheel fairly firmly when running it over the stitches.

Still having fun and learning

Edited October 26, 2012 by kwelna

[katsass]

From the grump: OK, I just posted this pic this morning in another thread. Even went out to the shop to make the little sample and take the pic - - before my second cup of coffee this morning. Marking and punching holes isn't rocket science! You gouge, mark and then punch holes, it took me just a minute or two to make this sample. IMO most folks make their holes so big that Granny with the 'rumatiz' could run a line of stitching like hemming a dress. For good, tight stitching you need small holes, that close back up after running the overstitch when done with pulling thread. An example of what I'm talking about: That's a #1 size needle (smaller than the #0 used by most folks) and my awl blade for comparison, and that is the gouge left by the standard stitching groover. Mike

Edited October 26, 2012 by katsass

[seanafk]

No that helps i am less confused......maybe down to disoriented?? LOL It all Helps and I am getting ready to do some more stitching this week endI ( I hope) I have been using a pricking iron to mak the locations, and trying to use the overstitch wheel after stitching......it tends to wander off the stitch line, although that seems to be an issue of the nut behind the tool...I am assuming you press down on the overstitch wheel fairly firmly when running it over the stitches.

Still having fun and learning

I actually don't use an overstitch wheel after stitching; instead I lightly hammer them flat over a granite tile. This might also help with your stitches puckering. If they don't hammer flat, then you know you pulled too hard when stitching. Sounds like you're on the right path and the stitches should improve over time.