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renegadelizard

My Belt Hole Punch Is Anemic

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Hey All,

My round punches just werent cutting it on thick gun belts, so i ordered the biggest oval punch SLC had on their web site..its 3/16...i figured this would work...did i ever tell you guys how poor i was a figuring?...anyway, i need some recommendations for a good oval punch for 1/4 inch thick gun belts...

thanks all,

don

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Take a close look at the cutting edge, it may just need to be sharpened. If it has a dull, flat, or damaged edge, it won't punch holes correctly. Weaver Leather has a nice little video on Youtube that shows how to sharpen a punch.

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As TwinOaks has pointed out even the best punches will require occasional sharpening, and that is a skill that results from some instruction and practice.

I would add only that the method of use can affect both the results and the longevity of the punch. A solid work surface is required to stabilize the work and allow the punch to penetrate cleanly. A good backstop prevents inadvertent damage to the punch's cutting edge. A rawhide maul or hard plastic mallet will drive the punch without deforming the shaft.

For heavy duty punching I use a 2-lb. hard plastic mallet to drive the punch while working on a plastic kitchen cutting board supported on a concrete floor. This combination allows most punching to be done in one or two sharp raps, leaving nice clean holes on the front and back surfaces. The plastic cutting board stops the punch without damaging the edge.

After spending considerable time adapting a 1-ton arbor press to accept various sizes of hole punches and a section of cutting board under the work I returned to the above method as being faster and easier overall.

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I was just debating the idea of the arbor press...another concern is noise..i have 4 kids that are in bed usually by 8pm, so im forced to go to the garage to punch holes...when its warm, not a problem...cold on the other hand sucks...im using uhmd for a backstop...i search til i hit the end of the internet looking for oval hole punch pliers...i cant find any..does anyone else think this is odd..imagine it, put a little guide on there so you can set it for different belt widths, then its just punch, move, punch ,move...maybe one of you engineers out there can make something like that for us...i was even debating making a table for an arbor press with a fence, like the one i have for my drill press...set the depth, pull the handle...what were some of the issues with the arbor press?...

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I was just debating the idea of the arbor press...another concern is noise..i have 4 kids that are in bed usually by 8pm, so im forced to go to the garage to punch holes...when its warm, not a problem...cold on the other hand sucks...im using uhmd for a backstop...i search til i hit the end of the internet looking for oval hole punch pliers...i cant find any..does anyone else think this is odd..imagine it, put a little guide on there so you can set it for different belt widths, then its just punch, move, punch ,move...maybe one of you engineers out there can make something like that for us...i was even debating making a table for an arbor press with a fence, like the one i have for my drill press...set the depth, pull the handle...what were some of the issues with the arbor press?...

Issues with the arbor press were primarily the time setting up for each task, which generally exceeds the time required to just punch out the holes with the mallet method.

If I were doing multiples of the same item on a regular basis setting up the arbor press and punch would be the way to go. But I'm doing dozens of different pieces every week with seldom any repeats of the same item. Keeping production moving along requires that each task be completed so that the next one can be done.

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I only dye the outside layer of the belts I build. So I build the outside layer first, cutting all my holes and slots. I then dye the outside piece. I then glue it to what will be the inside piece. Once the glue dries, I cut the ends. I then stitch it all together. I then go to the holes I'd previously punched in the outer layer of leather, drop the punch in, and only have to punch through the inside piece of leather. It has worked well for me.

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Take a close look at the cutting edge, it may just need to be sharpened. If it has a dull, flat, or damaged edge, it won't punch holes correctly. Weaver Leather has a nice little video on Youtube that shows how to sharpen a punch.

Can you post the link? I can not find it to save my life

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Spend the money and buy the Weaver punches..Lifetime warranty all the way around..Free sharpening I think as well..

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Spend the money and buy the Weaver punches..Lifetime warranty all the way around..Free sharpening I think as well..

Thats good cause I banged my new weaver punch into my granite slab. Idiot.

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Thanks! I saw thatone but it didn't look like a punch so I skipped it. Good find though!

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If you watch the entire video they do show sharpening hole punches, edgers etc.

Edited by camano ridge

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I make belts in batches of 30 or so. It saves tons of time as I am able to fill my orders and have belts sitting around to fill orders with. I leave sim just glued up, not cut to length, stiched or punched yet. I couldn't imagine doing one at a time of working without a foot press. It punches perfect holes, saves a ton of time stapling keepers instead of stitching and makes setting snaps and rivets on holsters a breeze.

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I make belts in batches of 30 or so. It saves tons of time as I am able to fill my orders and have belts sitting around to fill orders with. I leave sim just glued up, not cut to length, stiched or punched yet. I couldn't imagine doing one at a time of working without a foot press. It punches perfect holes, saves a ton of time stapling keepers instead of stitching and makes setting snaps and rivets on holsters a breeze.

What is this foot press you speak of?..got a picture?

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