Measuring And Cutting Even Rectangles..

[jk215]

Im interested to see if anyone has any better methods for marking/cutting even rectangles out. I have an ongoing problem of somehow misaligning my marks but very small amounts and making an uneven rectangle once its cut out. Its extremely frustrating and I end up wasting a lot of leather. Ive tried straight rulers, carpenters squares, t-squares, you name it. Please explain to me your measuring and cutting sequence like Im 5 years old. Assume their is no straight edge already and you have to mark all four sides. Thanks!

[TwinOaks]

Pick up a set of triangles from the drafting area of your local hobby store...hobby lobby, Michael's, etc.

It's quite possible that the reason you're getting out of square is that the leather is moving a bit as you cut it. Mark the leather first with a stylus of some sort and cut away from the corners to keep from over lapping them. Be sure that your blade is scary sharp so that it slices the leather without pulling on it.

The ruler I use is from a speed square and is marked on both left and right as well as front and back. That gives me marks on both sides, so I can start with one straight edge, then line up the marks on either side and the ruler will be perpendicular to the original straight edge. Measure and mark two lines perpendicular to the first and connect their end points for the 4th side of the rectangle.

[Northmount]

I've found the green self-healing cutting mats, all nicely ruled off, help me keep the leather and rule or straight edge lined up and square. I've been known to clamp a 4' long aluminum rule like wall boarders use over top the mat, to the edge of the bench to keep that edge locked in position. Then it is easier to keep that edge of the leather lined up and in place against the rule. Cut the piece a little oversize, then you can line up a straight edge with the grid on the mat (parallel to the clamped rule) and make trim cuts. For 90 degree cuts, I use a steel square butted against the clamped rule.

Before tooling an item, start with your piece cut oversize, then square up and trim to size after tooling.

I've used this on a three piece 3 ring binder for cutting and for assembly to to keep the long edge of the binder straight during glue up. Did both the outside of the binder and the inside lining this way. Binder folds correctly and sits perfectly square standing in a shelf. Was a huge relief!

Heavy rule and large drafting triangles help for doing layout marks before cutting. Still cut oversize and trim later, especially when gluing multiple layers together. In this case, trim after gluing.

Hope this helps give you some ideas to adapt to your projects.

Tom

[Tree Reaper]

Use the square and mark your lines in pen or pencil.

To double check them you can measure on a diagonal from corner to corner, both measurements should be the same if it's square.

Stay on the lines, you can't miss unless you move the straight edge.

One thing I try to do is apply pressure down with the knife after the first cut.

Use a knife that works for you, I like a sharp tile knife.

[Kustom]

If you know how to use photoshop you can make a rectangle print it out on a piece of paper, then glue it to a sheet of plastic.

[Glendon]

I've found the trick is to use a light touch when marking along a straight edge. Any pressure can move the leather just enough to be a problem. I use a stylis though others use pens or markers. Then you can cut. I will second Kustom's suggestion as well. I will print some patterns, rubber cement the paper to the leather, and cut right thru it.

[jk215]

Thanks for all the tips. I never thought of making the pieces a little oversized and trimming later. Ill also put these triangles I got to use!

[Horrrk]

Thanks for all the tips. I never thought of making the pieces a little oversized and trimming later. Ill also put these triangles I got to use!

Oversized is a good option, especially, as Tom pointed out, if you're stamping at all..sometimes the leather will distort and you may have to trim anyway..

You'll find what works for you, somewhere in the swarm of advice given..

Regards

Phil

[Dwight]

I bought my rafter square at Harbor Freight, . . . $1.99 maybe, . . . it is basically a 6 inch long x 6 inch wide triangular square. It has all kinds of neat degrees, angles, and other markings on it.

It's main qualitys, though, . . . first it is "square", . . . and one of the sides has a lip off each way. I lay down a piece of leather I need squared, . . . use a straight edge to make the first straight line.

I lay that straight line on the edge of my work desk, . . . run the square up to it on the outside, . . . and bump the square's lip against the edge of the work desk. The leather lays between the square and the work desk edge, . . . with all three of them lined up, . . . the lip the desk edge and the leather straight edge.

Off to the right is the cutting edge.

Take a look at this little drawing, . . . says it better than I can. AND IT WORKS !!!!

May God bless,

Dwight

[thekid77]

Dwight, I love your drawings!!!

Dwight, I love your drawings!!!

[lightningad]

I have found that my cuts have improved by vast amounts now that i use a saddlers round knife. Its kept honed and kept razor sharp, which is essential to stop the blade dragging through the leather.

I also firmly believe that using the round knife to push cut rather than pull cut helps keep the cut accurate. Pull cuts seem to stretch the leather (but that could just be me!)

[Andrew Chee]

For long straight cuts you really can't beat a rolling craft knife. They're like a sharp pizza cutter. They don't pull the leather at all since they roll. As long as they're sharp, they'll cut pretty much anything.

Andrew

[fenester]

I'll second Andrew Chee's suggestion of the roller cutter. A friend makes quilts and she suggested one for cutting lining fabric. I tried it on some 3-4 oz. veg-tan on a whim and it went through it like nothing. It will also cut curved lines up to a point, but only fairly large radius ones. She recommended the pretty inexpensive Singer model over some of the more expensive ones, I got mine with two spare blades, for $11.

She also suggested quilter's squares (common brand is omni-grid). They are clear acrylic shapes with marked grid lines on them in various sizes of squares and rectangles. They make cutting those shapes super easy. (and are pretty cheap)

[matt128]

Hello everyone!

I'm new to the art of leather craft. I like the suggestion of a metal ruler clamped to the edge of the bench sort of like a jig. I have the same problem of lining my pieces up properly. I'm currently working on a case for my ipad. Also, I am having a problem properly sizing smaller pieces. The ipad cases we see at the store, I have cut two similar pieces. The first piece is at the top stitched on the sides, and open at the top to allow the ipad to be slid behind the leather. The bottom piece creates a pocket for the ipad to sit in with a cut-away for the home button. I measured like three time before I cut. I left 1/2" around to allow for stiching. Now when I lay the pieces over the ipad, they are too small. They fit over the ipad fine but for there is nowhere near enough room for stiching. What am I doing wrong? I have run into this problem on several other projects as well. Sorry for being long winded.

Thanks everyone for any help.

Matt

Edited April 30, 2013 by matt128

[Tree Reaper]

I would say you aren't allowing for the thickness of the ipad.

To save what you already cut you can add a filler along the inside edge the thickness of the ipad and it should be close.

Kevin.

[Northmount]

Adding to Kevin's comment, fit the added depth as a gusset. Length to go all around the case, width ... the thickness of the tablet plus seam allowance for both edges of the gusset.

Tom