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Posted

yup, took me a couple years to figure it out, but you don't slick the edges while the gum trag is wet. It works best right after it dries.

As for how I slick it, I've used a lot of things, and learned from it. Material-wise, you need some friction to heat up the trag so it melts a little. Plastic slickers are the worst. Currently I'm using one of the wood cylindrical slickers, chucked in a bench-top drill press with the speed set to an intermediate rate. Works very well, and pretty fast.

I've used it for slicking down the backs of loose pieces too. I like to burnish it just a little afterward with a bone folder.

Michael Sheldon

Desert Raven Leather

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Posted

I just tried letting the gum trag dry out before edge burnishing and I have to agree, it seems to work. It is a really messy substance though - (other than the Weaver Dye Box - thanks for that Bruce) is there a clean way of applying the stuff? Can it be thinned effectively? What would you thin it with?

Has anyone used one of those Weaver edge slicking/sanding machines with gum trag?

Another question: Has anyone ever used gum trag as a dye resist - in other words to block dye from reaching certain areas? I have read that it can block certain types/colours of dye - is this true?

"Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps"

Ray Hatley

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Posted

I'm pretty sure Weaver's machine would work well, but it's darned expensive. They sell the wood cylindrical slicker, and small bench-top drill presses are cheap.

As for thinning it, water would probably work. But, It also thins out when warm. Here in AZ, I can't afford to keep the shop really cool in the summer, so I found out pretty quickly that when the inside temp is mid-80's, my gum trag is like water, which works quite well. In the winter, it's pretty much a thick gel unless I warm it.

Michael Sheldon

Desert Raven Leather

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Posted
Another question: Has anyone ever used gum trag as a dye resist - in other words to block dye from reaching certain areas? I have read that it can block certain types/colours of dye - is this true?

Gum trag won't resist dye at all. I slicked the back of a belt for a guy. Then he said he wanted the back of the belt black (go figure, hey, he was paying for it). So, I just got out the black and spread it on and there you go! Black back.

Brian

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Posted

For a good many years I've been using gum arabic for polishing the edges of veg-tanned leather. It's most often used by printers to coat their aluminium litho plates to prevent them from oxidising. It comes as a liquid, and most local printers are happy to part with a small bottle free of charge, and it's very economical to use. I sometimes dilute the gum 50/50 with Fiebing's water-based black edging dye, which does two jobs for the price of one!

I apply the gum with a small piece of sponge or a dauber and burnish immediately with a bone folder or a piece of antler, followed by a quick polish with a piece of saddle cloth. If it dries out too much, it can be reactivated by wiping over with a damp sponge.

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Posted

Gum Arabic.... now thats funny.... when i was working at wrigley, and they moved the Altoids line here, powered gum arabic was the main ingredient.....

I use Gun T allot when I am making coasters.... I will coat the entire back using a dobber. It starts to dry as I am applying it and I just add more until i get a thickish even coverage over the rough side of the leather. Then I take a cloth and scrub it real good until it is nice and smooth and even all over. I might then use black edge coat to cover it or leave it plain. Either way it provides a nice water resistant and skid resistant surface for the coasters when I take them to a Bar. The bar it gets set on is usually wet, or stands a good chance to get wet durring the night, and if someone tries to slide it is doesnt move easily....

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Posted

Finally I dare post a reply in this thread!

I have used gum-trag a bit and gotten decent results with it but it's very easy to overdo it with the slicker I think. Get's like a cracked effect wich I have had problems foreseeing. Anyways I have now turned to slicking with the Tandy bonefolder when the beveled edge is still cased. After dying and the edge is dry I re-wet it with water on a brush and slick it to gloss. I've also gotten some very good results with Tandys mahogany antique on edges in rich amounts but will continue to experiment with this to verify if it's the mahogany or some other factor playing a role in those cases.

Tom

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Posted

Hmm . . . so I guess I've been polishing my edges with chewing gum for all these years??!

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Posted
Hmm . . . so I guess I've been polishing my edges with chewing gum for all these years??!

Well... I am not sure if they use it in the Altoids gum or not, but it is the main ingredient in the mints....

"The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE

Her: Hit Me

Him: Do you want me to use the knife?

Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!

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