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I have another Gum Trag question:

I always just assumed the gum would be water soluble after it was dry, so I always sealed it with supersheen when using it on the back of a belt to slick down the belt.

Then I spoke to a friend and he said he had just assumed the oposite: that Gum Trag was a final finish for the edge or the back of a belt and he had never sealed it and never heard of it softening if it got wet again.

Any thoughts?

JOhan

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On another forum, I've discovered that Gum Tragacanth is sold in a powdered form for Cake Decorating. It's mixed together to form a paste that they somehow use? Not sure what that means for leather applications, but it was a weird enough bit of trivia that I thought I should pass it on.

Melody D. Snow

The Unicorn Woman (established 1980) Lillian, Texas, U.S.A.

Miniature Tackmaker, Leathercraft Artist, & Freelance Writer

http://www.unicornwoman.com

Posted
On another forum, I've discovered that Gum Tragacanth is sold in a powdered form for Cake Decorating. It's mixed together to form a paste that they somehow use? Not sure what that means for leather applications, but it was a weird enough bit of trivia that I thought I should pass it on.

It's used for very delicate sugar flowers. (My mom does wedding cakes.)

  • 4 years later...
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I have used water...not bad...but I also use the Gum Tragacanth by applying to the edge with a dauber, letting it sink in a little, then hitting it with my Cocobolo wood dremel burnisher until I reach the look I'm shooting for. I ordered the cocobolo burnishers (2 with varying channel widths to accomodate the leather's thicknesses.) My dremel running at 1000 RPM, don't push too hard because it slows down the motor. I attach the dremel to a stand, but this can be done with dremel in hand. So, in conclusion, run some test samples and see what work best. I use it for 6/7 oz weight leather used to make Guitar Straps.

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I have used water...not bad...but I also use the Gum Tragacanth by applying to the edge with a dauber, letting it sink in a little, then hitting it with my Cocobolo wood dremel burnisher until I reach the look I'm shooting for. I ordered the cocobolo burnishers

Get rid of the Gum Trag man - it's just a glue. Glycerin Saddle Soap is all you need and you'll have a hard edge that's actually smooth and not just glued down to look like it.

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Posted
Get rid of the Gum Trag man - it's just a glue. Glycerin Saddle Soap is all you need and you'll have a hard edge that's actually smooth and not just glued down to look like it.

What form of the saddle soap do you use? bar, paste or do you mix with water? do you burnish while still wet? Will this work with a wood burnishing stick?

I am still struggling with edges. I have tried the Fiebings Burnishing ink. Seems to work ok...but it doesn't seem to give good even color on the edges (I am using the dk brown). I have been playing with the gum trag for more of a natural edge. Also tried glycerin followed by parafin but that produced a "sticky" edge which didn't seem like it would hold up well as compared to the gum trag edge.

I have a bar of the Fiebings saddle soap...need to get it out and give it a go.

Also, for those with the cocobolo wood burnishers..is there a technique that produces better results? ie: faster vs slower speed on the drill press; move leather in one direction vs short back and forth strokes; do you want the burnisher to turn INTO the edge or AWAY from the edge?

Christine Mantz

www.tacktemplates.com

Specializing in acrylic templates for tack makers  **TACK SETS - HALTER SETS - SPECIALTY - DELRIN STAMPS** 
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Posted (edited)
On 6/13/2013 at 5:01 PM, cmantz said:

What form of the saddle soap do you use? bar, paste or do you mix with water? do you burnish while still wet? Will this work with a wood burnishing stick?

Read this manual about finishing edges with saddle soap from Bob Park

Bobby Finishing Edges.pdf

Edited by Northmount
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Posted (edited)

:17:

I use Fiebing's bar and just rub it over my edge without water then go over it with my dremel burnisher. I'm not sure about the preferred speed on the drill press model. I set mine to about 15, sometimes 10 if it's already pretty smooth. The key is that you should have a fairly smooth edge already. Sometimes I need to take some 400 grit sand paper to it to smooth it out. If I'm working with a really fleshy piece, I've been known to go over it with some 220 first, followed by 400. It may seem like extra work, but it's really not that long. The last couple guitar straps I did only required a light run down with 400 grit (5 minutes tops) followed by burnishing with the saddle soap. Have a look here and see if this answers any questions about the use of the burnishers.

https://web.archive.org/web/20160404033410/http://leatherburnishers.com/BurnisherFAQ.html

try to maintain a single direction since you're laying the fibers down, preferably following the grain pattern if you can spot it. That said, I do go back and forth in short bursts (about 6 inch lengths) at first and then follow through with one more full length run in the same direction. But, if things are getting rough or just not laying down right, it's time to make sure to only go in one direction.

Edited by Northmount
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Posted

What to use to remove gum tragacanth from veg tanned dyed leather belt. 

 

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Posted

A rag? I don't know if you'll get all of it off but I've never had a problem leaving it on, just don't burnish it or else you'll end up with a shiny spot.

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