Ran Report post Posted October 25, 2012 I've been making my first holsters and have actually sold three of them already. The 9-10oz. double shoulder I bought from Tandy is just 'okay,' in my opinion (in terms of quality, that is). I don't have much to compare it with, but from what I've seen and read, there are much better options in terms of premium holster leather. Does anyone have tips on where to purchase my leather and what product to buy? Springfield? Herman Oak? Is 9-10oz. the right weight (seems like it to me). As a LONG time woodworker, cabinet-maker, furniture builder, I'm familar with many of the tools and confident in my ability to make things from leather. The biggest challenge I'm discovering is achieving an even dye job. On the most recent holster I've made, I dampened the leather just a bit before applying the dye with a sponge and it helped tremendously. But I'd still like to achieve a better quality dyeing process. Any tips will be much appreciated. And I apologize to the admin if I've placed this post in the wrong section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesmith648 Report post Posted October 25, 2012 Springfield has Herman Oak and is wonderful, I get the "B' sides as they are better quality. I am sure there are others but I like the service Springfield has the most. just my 2 cents worth!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted October 25, 2012 I'm another satisfied SLC customer, but we've also had good reports from Weaver Leather, Sheridan Leather Outfitters, and several others. As far as your dyeing process....have you tried spraying yet? It's much easier to get a uniform coat at less than 'full strength', and it's also easy to get fades, so you can do 'sun burst' shading. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glendon Report post Posted October 25, 2012 I'm another huge Springfield fan. You're right, most of the Tandy stock is "okay". With Springfield, I've found that most of their "B" and #2 leather is quite good. If you want to try their Hurman Oak out without spending a ton on a large amount of leather sight unseen, they sell HO single square foot pieces. http://springfieldleather.com/30416/Piece%2CHermann-Oak9-10oz%2C12%22x24/ Would allow you to make a project or two and see how you like it. They also have some special purchace HO in single shoulders on sale right now. http://springfieldleather.com/34242/American-Single-Shoulder%2C-4-5-oz./ As for the weight question, I tend to run to the liter side, others go heaver. If you are getting charicteristics you like with the 9/10 oz, I'd say stick with it. It's a reasonable and common weight for holsters. Wettting does help for dye application. Applying in a circlular motion rather then painting it on helps a lot as well. A good rule of thumb is go heavy and wipe the excess off rather then doing multiple coats. Another method that has been brought up here, but that I personally have not used is dip dying. Can be messy and a bit heavy on how much dye is needed, but it seems to work for a number of people. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ran Report post Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks for the comments and tips, folks. I appreciate it. Glendon, while I 'have' researched spraying a little, I've not tried it yet. It appears the initial expense is not too bad, so I can definitely see myself getting into it. A craftsman can never have too many tools! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted October 25, 2012 FWIW from the grump; Ditto on Springfield Leather, but I do things a bit differently. I use two layers of 4/5oz shoulder leather, bonded together on their flesh sides. IMO I end up with a much firmer holster, and it's lined to boot. On the down side (to some) it takes a pot-load more stitching. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ran Report post Posted October 25, 2012 FWIW from the grump; Ditto on Springfield Leather, but I do things a bit differently. I use two layers of 4/5oz shoulder leather, bonded together on their flesh sides. IMO I end up with a much firmer holster, and it's lined to boot. On the down side (to some) it takes a pot-load more stitching. Mike Mike...I can see myself giving that a whirl. I really don't mind the stitching (at least not YET I don't). I find it relaxing and easy enough to do that I can let my mind wonder to other (perhaps more important?) things.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted October 26, 2012 Randy, I use an airbrush system for dyeing most of my things. It's way more consistent and much easier to obtain the look you want. Air brushes are relatively cheap and there are many great products on the market. Check out Chicago Airbrush Supply on line. They have EVERYTHING and they ship quickly. As for leather, I recently decided I have had my fill of Tandy leather and I chose Herman Oak. I can't even begin to tall you how much of a difference good leather makes while working on a project. Some people use Tandy for things when they need to get something in a hurry, but since you aren't close to a store, you could always stock up on the good stuff and be happy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ran Report post Posted October 26, 2012 Randy, I use an airbrush system for dyeing most of my things. It's way more consistent and much easier to obtain the look you want. Air brushes are relatively cheap and there are many great products on the market. Check out Chicago Airbrush Supply on line. They have EVERYTHING and they ship quickly. As for leather, I recently decided I have had my fill of Tandy leather and I chose Herman Oak. I can't even begin to tall you how much of a difference good leather makes while working on a project. Some people use Tandy for things when they need to get something in a hurry, but since you aren't close to a store, you could always stock up on the good stuff and be happy! Thanks Mike. I've been eye-balling airbrush kits. I've got a couple of compressors, so I think I'm good there.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted October 27, 2012 Just make sure you use a good moisture filter in line with your compressor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ran Report post Posted October 27, 2012 Just make sure you use a good moisture filter in line with your compressor. Mike...is this an 'inline' filter that goes between the airbrush and the compressor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) It sure is. Depending on your compressor, you'll also want a regulator as large industrial/garage compressors often have too much airflow for airbrushing. Edited October 27, 2012 by immiketoo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zacharyc Report post Posted November 10, 2012 Herman Oak. Maybe not as experienced as some of you. But I can tell good and bad. Herman Oak is pretty damned good. I dont know about 9-10 oz. Seems pretty chunky. 7-8? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ran Report post Posted November 10, 2012 Herman Oak. Maybe not as experienced as some of you. But I can tell good and bad. Herman Oak is pretty damned good. I dont know about 9-10 oz. Seems pretty chunky. 7-8? Thanks Zach. I've got some Herman Oak on its way and will be giving it a whirl. I agree that sometimes 8-10oz seems a little thick. I thinking it depends on how and where you're using it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites