Singer 111W155 Timing/thread Issues

[dmar836]

Well, for some reason my needle bar was off. I set it multiple times with the instructions for those without marks on the bar. Today I took a chance and overlooked minor scoring that I had always confused with the marks and set it on what I could now wee - two marks! One would think results would be the same but it was not for me. Can't explain that as it should result in the same settings. Then of course I had to reset the timing and hook clearance. Then had to lower the hook a tad as the top thread was catching on the bottom of my new needle plate.

For the first time, it knocked out the rows on four bills without a skipped stitch! I didn't notice that tendancy to backlash and tangle when stopping either.

I think my assumption was right. With such a fundamental adjustment off the "top settings"(needle) and "bottom settings"(feed) were working against each other with a bit of overlap so that foot pressure was actually creating resistence for the needle bar as it was descending.

Huge sigh!

Dave

[gottaknow]

Well, for some reason my needle bar was off. I set it multiple times with the instructions for those without marks on the bar. Today I took a chance and overlooked minor scoring that I had always confused with the marks and set it on what I could now wee - two marks! One would think results would be the same but it was not for me. Can't explain that as it should result in the same settings. Then of course I had to reset the timing and hook clearance. Then had to lower the hook a tad as the top thread was catching on the bottom of my new needle plate.

For the first time, it knocked out the rows on four bills without a skipped stitch! I didn't notice that tendancy to backlash and tangle when stopping either.

I think my assumption was right. With such a fundamental adjustment off the "top settings"(needle) and "bottom settings"(feed) were working against each other with a bit of overlap so that foot pressure was actually creating resistence for the needle bar as it was descending.

Huge sigh!

Dave

You've come a long way there Dave. It's really nice once you get a clear picture of how everything has to work together. Most rewarding.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

Bump for Mia.

[mountain mama]

Hi everyone I am new to this thread , and fairly new to using an industrial machine. I began using a home machine when I was 5 and it was produced in the 50's or 60's and came from sears roebuck catalog. It is a tough machine and I still use it from time to time, however it won't handle the heavy duty projects I take on.

After several years of searching for an industrial I could afford, my husband acquired the 111w155 on a trade. I oiled and cleaned it up to the best of my knowledge and used it to complete several projects, including saddle blankets, ATV seats, and a motorcycle seat. I was up late working on my husbands motorcycle seat which has raised diamond design and while rolling bobbin, I unknowingly let thread build up under to bobbin case. After a very frustrating time I broke the bobbin lever and had to replace the bobbin case. ($29 ouch!)

After waiting a week to get it I was excited to put my machine back to use. During my reassembly I lost one of the tiniest screws that holds the case in place, which I haven't been able to recover. I put the remaining screw in the hole where that it would hold the peice in place without the second screw.

I began work on the passenger motorcycle seat. I completed over half of the lines for the diamond, the after making a turn to start another row the machine simply would not pick up stitches anymore.

I have read this forum searching for the why's and how's to fix it. I believe the time on the machine is right and threading is correct. Here is the two factors I believe is affecting my machine, maybe someone here can help me sort through this. 1st theory is that because new bobbin case did not have slight indention in front of tab, bobbin thread is not sitting in correct position to be pulled around by hook. My option to remedy this would be to take a small file and sandpaper and crest the indention in front of the tab. 2nd theory is that bobbin guard was not in correct position when I put it back together and it broke/blunted the tip of my hook. Will I have to replace the hook, or might it work if I use fine sand paper to sharpen the hook?

I became disabled a few years ago, and since then learned that I have a progressive nerve disease. I am on a very limited income and use my machine to fix things for our family and friends that we would otherwise not be able to afford. I even use my machine for tailoring my clothing. Using my machine is very relaxing for me and allows me to feel a sense of accomplishment, which I don't get very often since my abilities are not what they once were. I hope someone can help me get my machine working again soon. Any advice or suggestion of how to remedy the problem the cheapest way possible would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -Brittany

[gottaknow]

Without seeing a picture, it's hard to say. However, if the point of your hook is gone, you'll need to replace the hook. In order to do that, you'll need to remove the throat plate, the latch opener the presser feet and feed dogs. There are several steps and adjustments to accomplish this. Do you have a shop close by? I've had a lot of folks track me down by looking for sewing factories in their area. There should still be some down your way. Most factory mechanics work on the side. I did for years, not so much now.

Regards, Eric

[mountain mama]

You may not be able to see it, but here is the picture , the hook is barely blunted. My aunt has worked on industrial equipment for +30 years, but she lives so far away, and doesn't have internet. Thanks for help.

[gottaknow]

Your machine won't work right with the bobbin tension screw missing and the hook needs to be sharp, but in the correct manor. More later.

Regards, Eric

[mountain mama]

Update... I took a very, very fine file and was able to correct the bluntness of my hook. The hook will grab the thread and pull it around the bobbin case. I also noticed my needle bar was slightly out of position and set it... still have to go through all of the adjustments. Will update again once I know more about the problem. Thanks all!

[Trox]

Update... I took a very, very fine file and was able to correct the bluntness of my hook. The hook will grab the thread and pull it around the bobbin case. I also noticed my needle bar was slightly out of position and set it... still have to go through all of the adjustments. Will update again once I know more about the problem. Thanks all!

Use a fine ceramic grind stone after the file and do not make the hook tip any shorter. The fine ceramic stone will give it a fine polished surface. To coarse and it might fry the thread.

Tor

[brmax]

If i can bring this up without changing focus for a moment, i have a simular 212G double needle but not a walker, i wish. But its new to me and totaly a new adventure, The question is hook timing sometimes involves moving the gear below along with the saddle. I see in my manual and it looks to be Singer, the gap spec of .008 between saddle face and gear. Is this critical and how ? also if it is changed for a quieter operation is that cool. Its ran on motor today but not sewed, I purchased it at auction and going through it as a "starting point" I re motored it with a servo. Im at this point and any help from you all would be great. thanks and sorry for the interuption