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About brmax

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    These HD Sew Machines and working the leather tools
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  1. Just curious, what color is the plastic spool. Particularly for the red Good day Floyd
  2. brmax

    Juki 563L

    Totally understand! In the same task, I have my biggest problem twisting the thread in order to get it to the left side of the bobbin case lever in a loop fashion going towards the needle side. What a pain, sometimes a pencil can help as the angle seems to help my frustrations sometimes. As mentioned though holding the bobbin is a required and great benefit. It seems once I get the thread past the bobbin case opening lever, I can just give it a slight pull towards the rear 11 clock hook position. You can then feel it get into position, for next hook task to bring it up top. I guess it gets to be a habit and fortunately we forget about it. Good day Floyd
  3. Are you considering a formica type material top laminate. Just curious, in any case the wood recommendation is to be pretty thick for your best outcome. As that big of a rectangle does put a sway in the tops. An other tip is some machines need the v-belt slot very close, and many remove the part between the two holes. I would keep that area between the machine and v-belt if by all means possible. For what its worth I think 3 sheets of 3/4” plywood or particle board is minimum. As your familiar with the router a slight! Gap between the machine and top edge is helpful, as when tilting the requirement width is a bit more. I would suggest a 1/16”- 3/32”. Hey thanks for sharing your project, and keep us posted. Floyd
  4. In my opinion, a key point that you and all face is thread size. The products we used regularly have found a standard to use, say blu jeans, coats and suits. With this to remind us of tested and proven types and sizes, we have a good base to consider. In some leather projects we can and should pick our priority. Doing this painful task we find standards of thread used in proven ways. All this hot air leads the conversation to machines were designed to use a certain range of thread, and tuned for a specific! This sounds simple and is. What is not obvious is the machines inner workings are designed to punch holes and pull/tension on these threads we choose. Some of the machine names are old and have proven themselves, some 24/7 with a factory operator who many times could be piece work paid, these operators do have a speed and its usually the machines top. These are the machines to consider for heavier duty rated sewing. Good day Floyd
  5. brmax

    overwhelmed with options

    The class 4 cobra and the cowboy 4500 both have options on packages! In that they offer many or most all the feet options along with other handy items “if” you need them. These are not cheap but consider your work. I believe the standard on the class 4 is the center foot and a left presser foot, as your setting looking at the machine during sewing. As you probably been seeing premium packages with many other options. This I also believe is the same for the others like the 4500 in that hd grade machine, and which there is getting to be several, newer and older. In any case enjoy the hunt, and do look around there are plenty used in new shape in my opinion. Just takes a good eye and tough patience Good day Floyd
  6. Many times hidden, but in the manuals I have seen these cutout measurements with a small scaled picture. This may be best asking one of the machine sales guys on the site banners. I know they typically have tops, and do the machine “ routing” of the proper spec. They likely have so many templates they have to hunt for the particular model. I found my self changing to new style tilt/mounts, so this is just another something to look and value the condition. Good day Floyd
  7. I agree with the others, and for sure I would remove the mount to straighten it. Even though it is double secured with screws, I would say its to fragile an area if trying to bend the mount. Have a good day Floyd
  8. Thanks Gregg for the photo! I found another manual this procedure is in, though its been hidden as I stuffed it in a sleeve folder in the binder. Its called; Juki instruction manual #no.05 and with a series number 29349503. this has all the languages and its clearly a great manual in actual operator sense, better than a lot. In that aspect I totaly recommend it. In any case I hadn't looked at it well enough but this adjustment, its in there! On page 28. Instruction no. 19. This description is much much more normal, I believe or it is for me anyway. ( i dont need as big of a sign ) But this manual here its not the quality of that engineers manual that is linked with a big thanks to dikman. I have that one printed and in binders for each of the 41, seems handy and I write down what and any dimension i used in each step in adj. specs. Maybe a slight issue in ocd ness, yet its a record. Have a good day everyone Floyd ps:
  9. brmax

    Servo motor quit? Why?

    You may have to make a longer video, especially showing your transmission to the machine head, that sounds interesting. I understand your idea of speed control, then using some existing pulley transmission system. Although some more views or photos of all this is really required. It can sure help me understand better, your reason the servo is not slow enough or the control is not, and requiring a constant other setting. As this control part is something many of us have had to address in several ways. Good day Floyd
  10. I understand, mine don't either. I sure wished, but in any case that specific adjustment for us both on standard styles will be pictured on top of page 10 and its written adj. procedure adjacent page. The adjustments now for the walk and presser foot ( equal ) are listed as mentioned pictured on page 12 of the Juki manual and written on the adjacent page. It does as you can notice have a separate designation photo for machines with automatic thread trimmer. Mine doesn't so the photo left is relevant to me. Many times reminding ourselves the stitch knob positioned correctly for these adjustments is critical. They many times require different settings for different steps in these adjustments. Have a good day Floyd
  11. Heres a step from the link that can help. I think the picture is at top of page 12 in the manual linked, and corresponding to this copied text below. Pretty sure this works. It does and did on each of my 4 Jukis Good luck on your mission (2) Alternate momentum 1. Set the stitch dial to “0”. 2. Turn the handwheel to make sure that the amount of alternate vertical movement of walking foot 1 and presser foot 2 is almost equal. 3. When the amount is not equal, loosen setscrew 3 in the top feed rear arm and adjust so that the amount should be equal. Adjust the amount almost to A = B. TM When the amount of alternate vertical movement of the walking foot is larger than that of the presser foot : 1) Loosen setscrew 3 in the top feed rear arm in the state that walking foot 1 is raised a little, press walking foot 1 to the feed dog. 2) Re-tighten the setscrew and turn the handwheel to make sure of the amount of the amount of alternate vertical movement of the walking foot and the presser foot. Adjust the vertical stroke of the walking foot so that it is larger than that of the presser foot in accordance with the sewing products. TM Sewing sponge material or the like TM Sewing material with overlapped sections When the alternative vertical strokes of the walking foot and presser foot are considerably different TM The stitch pitch is different from the value set by the dial. TM Decrease the number of revolution of the motor a little since the feed efficiency is decreased.
  12. It maybe benefit to check pages 12 & 13 in that manual, carefully. I found it a best practice to look over each step in the manual, particularly as they many times work upon the other, so following an order seems to be correct, Good day Floyd
  13. Great link to the manuals, I found these great. Thanks Dikmam It’s sure helpful if one prints out the pages so to view one page and simultaneously is able to read the adjustment instruction on opposite page, as intended. So to help this posted question pages 8-9 would be in a good view. Theres no doubt you should print the manual link, or save it then later try it. Its sometimes handy to check how its setup, so to print double side correctly for your layout viewing pages. Good day Floyd ps: i started using them stickies for holes on the page the 3 ring binder uses.
  14. Just sayin Thanks Bob! Now noticing this option on the front is a eye opener. These post sure give an opportunity for many of us. Good day Floyd
  15. I think it would be good in 1508 NH discussion ( along with many 190 sys. others ), to ask others what leather point can be used that best can hide, a need using a bigger needle. Im first saying this because I like 190 system. In respect lets assume or I'm saying I aint changin. So with help I think this can be a grest question, and could be called splitting hairs totally! I would like to key in on a point Wizcraft put in his post; ( This also allows the presser feet to raise and alternate higher before they contact the bottom of the needle bar. ) well said! Can I also use, This: I think this height benefit is also a running start, or a wind up so to speak. Anyway, That contacting the needle bar is a noticeable event in really hard to repeat sewing scenarios. Like while simultaneously turning material, twisting to raise it and possibly using the knee bumper with extra thick paddings etc. etc. To my knowledge and usage this 190 system is optional to use on both the 1508 and 1541 series if desired. But as a known the longer anything in the same diameter the more flex it may have. Hence my question/backstory, bigger diameter needle but better thread hiding cutting tip. Have a good day Floyd