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About MedusaOblongata

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  1. This! I have one by where I get dressed to hold my pocket knives and watches. I've seen other people use them for leatherworking and other tools. They're so cool I've bought several as gifts.
  2. I like Tan Kote on gator. It seems to give better results than Resolene or anything else I've tried. If you have scraps of it, test a little each finish you have on different pieces or spots and see which result you like best.
  3. Pics attached here. The backside is a bit mottled, like something may have been spilled on it or glue removed. Decent shape otherwise, though. The only marking on it says "=58" The fur is very soft. I got it from an online auction, the seller didn't know anything about it, other than they said it was wallaby. They could have been wrong, but I don't know what else it could be. (Off topic, but in case anyone's wondering, what you can see behind it is my leather hanging system. It's 1/2" plumbing pipe screwed into ceiling joists with metal clothes hangers hanging on it, and leather hanging from those using 1" rug clips, which do dent the outer leather, but don't put holes in it like shower curtain rings would. It makes it easy to browse for leather as you would for clothes in a closet, with leather neither rolled up nor lost behind or under other pieces of leather.)
  4. It appears to have been tanned as well as any other leather, completely.
  5. I just received a wallaby hide, hair-on, in the mail and in a few hours the whole room smells like unwashed dog (no dog has a tail that big, so it's definitely not a dog skin). Usually I look forward to leather in the mail because it smells so good! I can't make anything out of this, not smelling like this. Can I shampoo and condition it, or will the water stay in the fur and leather or something? Thanks, guys
  6. Thank you so much. You guys are smart and helpful. I appreciate it.
  7. I bought a lot of old, used leatherworking tools. Most I identified, cleaned up, and put to work. These few left me with some questions. #1 has this pattern, not sure what it would do. #2 might be a creaser(?) but it would leave a line pretty far from the edge if so. #3 has three curved sides heading towards the point. The edges aren't sharp, but they seem sharpenable, though I wouldn't see why. #4 has a point like a scratch awl, but the barrel is textured like a file, and the wire wrapping on the handle seems a bit like overkill since awls are simpleish. Maybe just homemade? #5 Is has a 1/8" hole from the end of the handle all the way through, though I don't know why #6 is flat on the back/top end, though it's textured around the sides of the top. The lower half is rough enough that side is uncomfortable to hold. I have rasp dremel bits similar in structure. #7 is well worn, but could has a curved and sharpened end #8 is round on both ends, knurled in the middle. It could be a pin punch for very large pins. #9 could be a very wide edge beveler, though it's so dull it would take an hour on a grinder to get any kind of edge on it. Thank you for taking the time to look over these for me.
  8. I thought poundo boards were designed for punches and the soft material wouldn't dull them. According to SLC's video here: poundo boards dull punches and you're better off with hard plastic cutting boards. This is counterintuitive to me, but these guys know way more than I ever will. Then they say that poundo boards make good cutting boards, though in my experience soft cutting boards create more drag than hard ones, and even my grid ruled self healing mat causes more drag on the point of a knife than a hard plastic cutting board. I've also heard chefs say they use plastic cutting boards because they can be sterilized better, though they dull knives worse than wood ones do, which also seems opposite to what they're saying here. I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm just pretty confused. Can anybody make sense of all this for me?
  9. Does anybody make an infinitely adjustable belt buckle sturdy enough for a gun belt? I have a lightweight infinitely adjustable belt that just uses friction to hold its position and it's very comfortable, but I can expand it just by tightening my stomach muscles - it's nowhere strong enough to hold up a pistol. Do you know of any infinitely adjustable belt buckle that is sturdy enough?
  10. I've had good luck with Resolene on snake skin. Brush it on in the same direction as the scales, thin coats, and buff only in the same direction.
  11. After using an electric CB3200, I wouldn't ever want a hand powered machine. Arm would get very tired, stitching would be slow, couldn't use both hands to guide the work. Unless you live without electricity, I can't think of an advantage of a hand powered machine.
  12. I really appreciate that you're here on LW.net. That means a lot. Add T-slots to your precut shapes (in natural veg and black goat, pig, or chrome). Coordinate with people and companies that do custom work and offer their products and services as yours, like patterns, custom acrylic templates, and custom stamps. I like the random exotics you offer and would definitely like to see more. I appreciate that you still have a paper catalog. I would like to see lower shipping charges, or at least make shipping charges appear lower by building it into the price of leather. Run specials for members of this forum, even if they're not huge, it makes us feel special. I really like the upgraded website.
  13. Practice on cheap leather. Dig through the scrap bin of a local leather store. Buy a piece or bundle of leather online. Tell yourself you'll use it to hold screwdrivers and hammers and you'll store it on the floor of the garage with the oil stains. Then you'll have permission to make mistakes, make it imperfect, ruin it and throw it out. Do that a few times and when you start making things so good you wish you'd used the good leather on them, then you know you're ready to use the good leather. You can also just buy more good leather, then when you go to cut it you'll know it's not the only piece you have.
  14. A great way to do this kind of thing is to buy a jacket at goodwill for $10 and take it apart to see how it goes together. That doesn't mean you need to trace the pieces to copy it, but what you want to learn is how jackets are constructed and this would be a good way to do it. You might also find more good info in some of the fabric sewing forums. More people make their own fabric clothing than leather. You can see, from how rarely it's discussed here, how unfortunately uncommon it is for people to make their own leather jackets. I would love to learn to make my own leather jackets too one day. I'm going to start with vests, then figure out sleeves.
  15. I think Retswerb has a point. If you use a stitching chisel with 7 (or whatever) points, the two on the far ends should prevent the leather from stretching in between them. This would be easy enough to test, though. Take your strip of leather, measure it precisely, punch holes, then measure it again. On the other hand, if each tine has a sharp point but not sharp edges, then it could be stretching or pushing the leather apart by the length of each hole, kind of like what you'd get if you drove a nail into the leather. One thing I've done to try to stop leather from changing shape and size on me while I'm working with it is I stretch the leather as far as I can with my hands in each direction before I cut it, thinking that might prevent it from stretching afterwards. I'm only partially successful with this, though, because sometimes the leather will stretch, shrink, or both, and two pieces I cut to the same size by laying one on top of the other for the cut will end up different sizes and shapes, making my work take much longer than it would if I knew what I was doing.
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