keithski122

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About keithski122

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  1. keithski122

    Edge guide education

    Out of interest what is the maximum distance you can set the guide away from the needle? I have a drop down guide with a straight edge it adjusts in 5mm increments up to about 35mm (1 1/4 inch) from the needle.
  2. keithski122

    Servo motor

    Mine is a juki 563 with a jack servo motor and needle positioner.I have extended the arm on the pedal by about 2 or 3 inches and the same on the motor controller.I found that without the extensions I had too little ankle movement before stitching would occur and I would accidently stitch
  3. keithski122

    Servo motor

    When I was using my machine today I took notice of how it was working.I think the servo motor adds controllability.With the clutch motor it previously had I would press the pedal and not know if I would do one stitch or 15, with the servo I can tap the pedal and do one stitch, keep tapping and I can do lots of one stitches.Generally I guess I sew about two or three inches at a time on a straight line or I can tap it one stitch at a time around sharp curves or up to a corner.With the clutch motor I would have to do stuff like this very carefully or by handwheeling the machine.With the control I now have with just the servo and needle positioner I have no need to go any slower.
  4. keithski122

    Servo motor

    I love having a needle positioner.I don't sew fast but its great knowing the needle will stop in the down position (slightly raising), great for 90 degree turns knowing it won't skip the stitch on the corner.Used with the knee lift I can make curves or sharp turns without material slipping or stitches skipping.My machine is a 563 used for car upholstery so used on material from vinyl to leather to carpet.I don't have a need for a speed reducer, jack motor with speed limited to 1000.
  5. keithski122

    Couple consew 206RB questions

    When I fitted a needle positioner to my machine I removed the bolt in the center of the pully and used it to secure a nylon spacer that was supplied with the positoner, the alloy ring of the positioner then grips the spacer.To fit the L shaped bracket I had to drill and tap the machine casing in a suitable place, it wasn't a difficult thing to do, just a bit worrying at first.
  6. keithski122

    Getting a bell knife skiver to work.

    Thanks for the advice. I've decided to get an engineer in to set it up and show me how to work it.Only so much time I can spend fiddling with it and getting nowhere, otherwise its just an expensive space filler.
  7. keithski122

    Getting a bell knife skiver to work.

    Thanks for the reply.I don't have much chance to play with it as its at work and we're so stacked with work I don't have much spare time, shame as it will be a great asset when i have got it dialed in. I have had it with the belt both to the far right pulleys and to the far left (I think its at the left at the moment which I think is slow blade fast feed), I don't suppose you could have a look and tell me which yours is on. I have thought of buying an extra motor and driving feed and blade off separate motors. I have followed a few videos in setting up but not to any success, probably down to me not the videos.At the moment I have the blade about 0.5mm away from the foot. Do you know what controls the finished thickness ? Is it foot to feed distance, foot to blade distance(left to right), foot to blade distance (up/down), blade to feed distance or just a mix of all?
  8. keithski122

    Getting a bell knife skiver to work.

    Heres a couple of pics I took a few months ago of the results I'm getting.
  9. Hi. My name is Keith and I need your help please. I've recently bought a preowned global skiver(fortuna copy) as where I work we had a very old fortuna that I did not own and could never get to work correctly.As I didn't want to pay for parts on something that wasn't mine I bout the global machine.It works better than the fortuna but I cannot get it to give a consistant cut.Leather used is upholstery type(1.1mm), stone type wheel, 50mm foot and servo motor.I'm trying to get the edge skived for about 10mm. I think I've read every internet post and seen every video posted but cannot work it right.The wheel grabs the leather and doesn't feed smoothly, would a different material feed wheel help? Is it easier to set for a wedged skive or a flat skive? Some videos I've seen they skive it, its not thin enough so turn the knob, reskive until thin enough.I do this and it takes nothing off, turn knob, nothing off, turn knob .......cut through leather.How much should I need to turn knob each time, 1/8 turn , 1/4, 1/2 ? Would a smaller foot help? I've sharpened blade by holding a sharpie on the blade to colour edge, then ground until edge nice and shiney, then used the hand stone to deburr. Which postition is it best to have the drive belts on? Which position for the feed tension spring Pics show the machine I bought and what I would like to achieve. Many thanks for any help.
  10. keithski122

    Juki 563 thread loose

    Many thanks to you both. Today I firstly adjusted the bottom stop bracket which brought the thread further to the right so reset back to where it began.Then adjusted the check discs from fully anti clockwise to fully clockwise which brought the thread to the left.It seems to work a lot better now.
  11. keithski122

    Juki 563 thread loose

    Thank you, will try this tomorrow.Should there be tension on the thread at all times or is there slack at any point? I checked against another of our machines and that also seemed to have slack on it.
  12. keithski122

    Juki 563 thread loose

    Hi. I'm hoping someone can help me with this problem.The machine is a juki 563 with a servo needle postion motor, the postion is set so that the needle stops just after it has gone past the bottom postion and is rising, heel/tap pedal(I forget which) and the needle rises to the top.Its used daily for auto upholstery and stitches ok.Recently I've noticed that when I stop sewing the thread is loose and twists towards the right hand side of the machine occasionally the thread with catch around the knurled knob, when sewing its fine.I've adjusted the take up spring but should I adjust some more? Thread is ipcabond 20 (138 american?).
  13. keithski122

    New skiver user question

    I had a look at my skiving machine today and its not a steel plate that rubs on the roller but a thick piece of leather. Would a rubber or plastic roller help to stop the waste pulling through to the top?
  14. keithski122

    Consew 226-Thread Escaping Needle

    When I install the bobbin I put the thread through the slit in the bobbin case, wind the machine over by hand to get the thread to the top, then hold the bobbin still and pull the thread.It will snick into the tension spring.Machine is a juki 563 but may well work on your machine.
  15. keithski122

    Skiving Machine Independent Feed Mod

    Nice work.Does it help with the skiving process? Was it worth modifying as I have one similar?