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About keithski122

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  1. If the consew uses the singer style foot then the feet are cheaper, more available and more choice of style.
  2. Thanks for replying to this. As I wasn't able to see the machine in person and the seller (a sewing machine dealer) would send it by pallet if bought I sent some material for testing but it never got sent back to me.After several phone calls requiring the test panels and details I gave up as I wasn't getting anywhere. I must be lucky because I've since found a Typical industrial machine the same as a brother LS2-B891-705 which is great and at 2/3rds of the price the juki was.
  3. No we didn't.Its still at the side of the workshop waiting for ideas or to be sold on. If you could work a way to post a pic that would be really helpful. I found I have to resize pics to post sometimes.
  4. I use a sew off tag.Just a two inch square of material, sew item, lock off, sew onto tag, sew onto new material, lock off, sew item and so on.If its not sewing off the end of the item then the tag is easier to hold than two loose threads.
  5. A tip for sharpening is to run a sharpie pen over the cutting edge before using the grinding wheel, you can then see where its sharpening the blade.
  6. At the moment all binding I do is by hand so just playing about to see if I can get a neater/quicker finish, if it doesn't work no great loss I'll continue to do it by hand. The set up above worked in a straight line apart from stretching the binding causing the carpet to wrinkle.I don't think I tried it on a curve.I've set it on a spare plate so if I get it to work it will be a straight forwards job just to change the plate and the feet and off I go.Binder is fixed as close as posssible to the feet on max stitch length with a couple of mm clearance, once set should not need moving, height is a low down as possible.With the new attachment I've mounted it using an adapter plate so if I need to adjust it back or forth its a simple job to make a new plate.Machine is a typical tw1-899 used for all aspects of auto upholstery so can't be set up purely for binding.
  7. On a flatbed machine.I've previously fitted a different binder but never got it working quite right due to the binder not being suitable for a thicker material.It worked but seemed to stretch the binding.Heres some pics of how it was with the older binder and binding results.
  8. Binder attachment:- https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=369&product_id=1900
  9. Thank you. Its for carpet binding with the binding being strips of leather or vinyl, maximum I guess of three metres long so no spool.I'll leave the wire off and see how it goes, at the moment its more important to get everything else lined up right. Just for information binder has throat of 9mm material thickness, with binding material size of 26mm (1 inch) 1.8mm thickness.
  10. I'm just in the process of sorting out a binder attachment and was wondering what the bent wire is for. I know the binding feeds through it but is it for extra tension or just to guide it into the binder better? On my set up it will need rebending as the flatbed of my machine is in the way, however this means the tape will be higher than the binder shell.
  11. I've fitted several needle positioners(inc. a juki 563), mostly I've drilled a hole in the side of the machine and tapped a thread in the hole.Its probably possible to do it another way but you would have to get creative with some bracketry.
  12. I've also done this but on a servo motor machine.I've extended both the pedal arm and the controller arm, possibly only by a few inches on each but every little helps.
  13. Wow. I saw the title then looked and saw it was something I posted. Easy fix although not very helpful to other people. After hours of messing about trying to get it to work nicely it got stuck in the deepest darkest corner of the workshop and I bought a secondhand newer global machine.This one works really well without all the hassle of sharpening, twiddling this, twiddling that and still getting nowhere.
  14. Thanks all. Its my bosses machine and any repair won't be an expensive one so unfortunately that rules out the efka option. I did have a quick look under the covers and spied the various solenoids and air cylinders and did think about a switch to opperate the right solenoid.I'll have another look when I have some spare time.When I bought my own machine it had all the electric options but did have a hand operated foot lift but no knee lift, I did find it had a spindle underneath that I could connect up a universal knee lever. Shame this doesn't have the same.
  15. We have a durkopp adler n291 at work that has the all singing all dancing electronic everything..............unfortunately it doesn't work.There is some fault with the efka v720 control unit or the motor, now an easy cheap fix would be to replace the motor and control unit with a new servo motor but the machine doesn't have a manual footlift. Does anybody know if it can be retro fitted or if there is another way around this?
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