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Posted

Hey everyone,

Total noob at leatherwork, but I am a pretty handy guy. Im in the middle of building a vintage bobber motorcycle and Im at the point of making my own sprung solo seat. Ive been wandering around this site for a few weeks and I have to say the craftsmanship on this site is unreal.

My question is this, Im at the point that Im punching the holes to mate the top piece to the bottom piece and I ordered one of those 4 in 1 hole punches (3/32") to make sure I have nice even holes. However, Id like to use a 1/8" flat lacing because I think the thicker lace will look better. Will that work or will I run into problems? Should I just go with a 3/32" lace? Id like to do a Double Loop stitch.

Thank in advance guys.

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Posted (edited)

Hey everyone,

Total noob at leatherwork, but I am a pretty handy guy. Im in the middle of building a vintage bobber motorcycle and Im at the point of making my own sprung solo seat. Ive been wandering around this site for a few weeks and I have to say the craftsmanship on this site is unreal.

My question is this, Im at the point that Im punching the holes to mate the top piece to the bottom piece and I ordered one of those 4 in 1 hole punches (3/32") to make sure I have nice even holes. However, Id like to use a 1/8" flat lacing because I think the thicker lace will look better. Will that work or will I run into problems? Should I just go with a 3/32" lace? Id like to do a Double Loop stitch.

Thank in advance guys.

Yes, those holes are large enough, you want the holes a little tight. I tried the multiple hole punches and didn't like them because the tubes weren't very tight and had a tendancy to wobble and not stay straight. I would experiment on some scrap to get the feeling of how the tool works and to determine if you like the results. Additionally, I prefer the slits made with a thonging chisel if I'm doing the double loop lacing technique, I try not to use holes unless I'm doing Round Braid or Mexican Basetweave (another name for Round Braid), although the slits can be used for that technique as well.

Chief

Chief

Edited by Chief31794

"Life's too short to carry ugly leather"

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Posted

If you use a rotary punch your hand is going to feel it. I use a single punch to eliminate hurting my hands. If you use a thonging chisel make sure the slits are big enough for your needle to pass through 2 layers of leather or you will have trouble. Also if you're wanting the lacing to last I'd use Kangaroo lace. I've used the other and it won't last long. It's not strong enough. Good Luck

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Posted (edited)

electrathon,

I have to totally disagree with you on the slits for lacing on the project NJBallslout is doing. A bike seat is a high stress item, as it is being sat on all the time while being ridden down the road. By using slits, you are already "Slicing" the leather, and a "Tear" is already present. This will only lead to future tearing on the edge of the seat where the lacing is.

For bike seats and anything else that is subjected to high stress, it is recommended to always use round holes. The round hole is far less likely to split or tear, as a slit will.

Another point on round or slit holes, is that on wallets and such, certainly the slits look better on the "front" the side of the project you punched the slits from, but on the backside, they tend to almost always look a bit frazzled. Round holes on the other hand, can be punched on the front side, then flip the piece over, lay it onto your back piece, then punch your holes into that. This way you get very nice looking holes on both sides of the project.

As you say, 3/32" holes for 1/8" lace, always use a smaller hole than the lace you are using, this will help ti hide the holes once the lacing is complete.

NJBallslout,

Those 4 prong punches may look like they are the cats meow, but they tend to be somewhat of an annoyance. As Chief said, they tend to come loose and wobble. They also do not work well on tighter corners. I used to have one, and it's now relegated to the bottom of some tool box out in the garage. The rotary punches are okay for belt buckle holes or maybe 10 hole projects, but you will be throwing it at the wall after punching enough holes in a bike seat.

You are far better off to purchase a punch set, that you screw individual punches into it. Mark all your holes on the bike seat halves, then punch them individually. This way, as you are marking your holes around the edge, as you get close to the end, you can adjust the distance of each hole so you don't all of a sudden have a spot where one more hole won't fit and the space between the last two holes is too far apart.

I would suggest that rather than lacing your seat with double loop, you should do the Mexican round, as it is a far stronger lacing, and it will look much better when completed.

Edited by Beaverslayer

Beaverslayer Custom Leather<br />Wearable Works of Art

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Posted

I didn't see your post about the Tandy Calf Lace....NO...NO...NO...do not use that stuff.

You can either purchase Tandys Kangaroo Lace, or order some from Y-Knot, Kangaroo lace is the strongest lace there is and is much easier than that calf lace to use.

Beaverslayer Custom Leather<br />Wearable Works of Art

https://www.facebook...erCustomLeather

Posted

electrathon,

I have to totally disagree with you on the slits for lacing on the project NJBallslout is doing. A bike seat is a high stress item, as it is being sat on all the time while being ridden down the road. By using slits, you are already "Slicing" the leather, and a "Tear" is already present. This will only lead to future tearing on the edge of the seat where the lacing is.

For bike seats and anything else that is subjected to high stress, it is recommended to always use round holes. The round hole is far less likely to split or tear, as a slit will.

Another point on round or slit holes, is that on wallets and such, certainly the slits look better on the "front" the side of the project you punched the slits from, but on the backside, they tend to almost always look a bit frazzled. Round holes on the other hand, can be punched on the front side, then flip the piece over, lay it onto your back piece, then punch your holes into that. This way you get very nice looking holes on both sides of the project.

As you say, 3/32" holes for 1/8" lace, always use a smaller hole than the lace you are using, this will help ti hide the holes once the lacing is complete.

NJBallslout,

Those 4 prong punches may look like they are the cats meow, but they tend to be somewhat of an annoyance. As Chief said, they tend to come loose and wobble. They also do not work well on tighter corners. I used to have one, and it's now relegated to the bottom of some tool box out in the garage. The rotary punches are okay for belt buckle holes or maybe 10 hole projects, but you will be throwing it at the wall after punching enough holes in a bike seat.

You are far better off to purchase a punch set, that you screw individual punches into it. Mark all your holes on the bike seat halves, then punch them individually. This way, as you are marking your holes around the edge, as you get close to the end, you can adjust the distance of each hole so you don't all of a sudden have a spot where one more hole won't fit and the space between the last two holes is too far apart.

I would suggest that rather than lacing your seat with double loop, you should do the Mexican round, as it is a far stronger lacing, and it will look much better when completed.

Good catch Beaverslayer, I didn't notice that he was talking about a bike seat. For that type of construction, definitely round holes and round braid (Mexican Basketweave). You get stronger construction with round braid as well since there are two pieces of lace going through each hole.

Chief

"Life's too short to carry ugly leather"

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Posted

1/4 inch kangaroo lace through 1/8 holes for solo seats. It is more expensive, but worth it. As to rotary punches, I have a CS Osborne one with no wobble and I like it alot. I have done 6 seats with it with no problem

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