Alternatives To Mop N Glo Due To Odor

[Tiara]

I tried the mop n glo diluted 50/50 with water in a sprayer. The first time it was lifting some of the dye out but in some more archive searches I found I need to move the sprayer further away so it is not saturating as much. So that I can work around but not the odor.

I'm sensitive to quite a few chemicals. This doesn't mean the stink bothers me. Chemical sensitivity, whether it is airborne offgassing, topical or food/beverage is due to low levels of the enzymes needed to breakdown and eliminate them from your system. I react to aspirin related compounds called salicylates among others. So no aspirin or aspirin class drugs for me but also too much mint or wintergreen can trigger a reaction. Chewing gum and topical ointments such as Ben Gay can trigger reactions. My blood pressure drops, I get spacey and generally feel bad. It can take a couple of hours to wear off depending on the degree of exposure.

Other chemicals and odors can set me off. I went to a hobby store to find some supplies and within a few minutes the odors of plastic, the scented candles and such was making it difficult to remember what I came in for.

And the Mop n Glo is doing the same thing to me. Even using it outdoors, if I'm close enough to use the sprayer, I'm close enough to have the odor get to me. I don't know if this is due to the acrylic or something else in the formula. Do all acrylic finishes smell like Mop N Glo or would something like Resolene possibly be a better choice? Or is there some other sealer/finish to keep dye from bleeding out and add shine?

I'm dyeing some snake and fish leather for cuffs, belts and some other small items.

I found with the snake I can dye only from the back, get good color and not get the bleeding I had when I dyed from both sides. I have some snake skins that came with a glaze and some that have no glaze, are very thin and supple. Both types take the dye from the back quite well. Using a damp cloth on the front didn't bring up any dye, firm buffing didn't, neatsfoot didn't, a beeswax based conditioner didn't, only the Mop n Glo. I'd prefer not to have to use a respirator. All alternative suggestions appreciated.

[electrathon]

Try RTC by Bee Natural

[IngleGunLeather]

Mop n Glo is for floors. Period. Try this, it's Fiebing's Institutional series.

Edited December 11, 2012 by CountryTrash

[Tiara]

The odor free RTC sounds good for no odors that might make me feel off. Does the Fiebings institutional finish have much chemical odor?

Thank you both for giving me some alternatives to try.

[Spincycle]

Resoline is very strong smelling. Especially when first opened from new. I'm about half way through a small bottle and it only has a faint odor now. The Tandy Eco Flow Professional matte finish also has an offensive odor. Different from Resoline though. Good luck.

[Tiara]

Resoline is very strong smelling. Especially when first opened from new. I'm about half way through a small bottle and it only has a faint odor now. The Tandy Eco Flow Professional matte finish also has an offensive odor. Different from Resoline though. Good luck.

Thanks, I appreciate knowing what products to steer clear of unless critical.

[TwinOaks]

I think the RTC is probably going to be your best bet unless you make your own. I just checked my TanKote, Supersheen, Carnuba Cream, and Leather Balm....all have an odor. Don't even try any of the lacquers.

[mlapaglia]

Mop n Glo is for floors. Period. Try this, it's Fiebing's Institutional series.

Then why does it work so well on some of the holsters I make? As well as Resolene if not better.

[evandailey]

Mop n Glo is for floors. Period. Try this, it's Fiebing's Institutional series.

How exactly do you figure that Mop n Glo liquid acrylic is different than Resolene liquid acrylic? Just because one is marketed differently than the other doesn't mean the chemistry is not basically the same.

I see this all the time in somewhat specialized hobbies/trades, i.e leather work, wood work, shooting, etc. People tend to only focus on the suppliers of products marketed to the discipline they're engaged in, often not realizing that the exact same products, or products that do the same thing, are sometimes used for other disciplines or purposes and can occasionally be found at fractional prices to the specialized suppliers.

I'm just speculating here, but it would not surprise me if at some chemical plant somewhere they produced a big vat of liquid acrylic and sat around saying "We could sell this stuff as floor finish but people are only going to pay $4/qt. for that, but if we take some of it and label it leather finish, people will pay $25/qt. for it."

I'm not saying the stuff comes from the same place, I have no idea. But I'm highly suspect that there is some significant difference between the two.

[IngleGunLeather]

Then why does it work so well on some of the holsters I make? As well as Resolene if not better.

Kinda defensive huh? I must have struck a nerve. I don't use either one of these products. But because you threw out Resolene, I thought I'd give you a comparison of the two products. I can't tell you why you believe Mop & Glo works well for your holsters. Maybe it does. I really don't care. I'm not going to use Mop & Glo for leather products because that's not what Mop & Glo was designed for. I just hope you're informing your customers that you use this product as a finish. That could be used in an ad slogan for you. "You can't get a brighter and tougher shine than my Mop & Glo finished holsters".

http://youtu.be/WJUxcwcxX2g

No mention of leather use HERE

Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene Material Safety Data Sheet Info

Mop N Glo Material Safety Data Sheet Info

Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether found in Mop & Glo

Nonylphenoxy Poly Ethanol found in Mop & Glo

Tri-butoxyethyl phosphate found in Mop & Glo. "Tri(butoxyethyl)phosphate is used as a primary plasticizer for polymers and elastomers. It is used as a component of floor finishes and fire extinguishing media."

Edited December 22, 2012 by CountryTrash

[IngleGunLeather]

I tried the mop n glo diluted 50/50 with water in a sprayer. The first time it was lifting some of the dye out but in some more archive searches I found I need to move the sprayer further away so it is not saturating as much. So that I can work around but not the odor.

I'm sensitive to quite a few chemicals. This doesn't mean the stink bothers me. Chemical sensitivity, whether it is airborne offgassing, topical or food/beverage is due to low levels of the enzymes needed to breakdown and eliminate them from your system. I react to aspirin related compounds called salicylates among others. So no aspirin or aspirin class drugs for me but also too much mint or wintergreen can trigger a reaction. Chewing gum and topical ointments such as Ben Gay can trigger reactions. My blood pressure drops, I get spacey and generally feel bad. It can take a couple of hours to wear off depending on the degree of exposure.

Other chemicals and odors can set me off. I went to a hobby store to find some supplies and within a few minutes the odors of plastic, the scented candles and such was making it difficult to remember what I came in for.

And the Mop n Glo is doing the same thing to me. Even using it outdoors, if I'm close enough to use the sprayer, I'm close enough to have the odor get to me. I don't know if this is due to the acrylic or something else in the formula. Do all acrylic finishes smell like Mop N Glo or would something like Resolene possibly be a better choice? Or is there some other sealer/finish to keep dye from bleeding out and add shine?

I'm dyeing some snake and fish leather for cuffs, belts and some other small items.

I found with the snake I can dye only from the back, get good color and not get the bleeding I had when I dyed from both sides. I have some snake skins that came with a glaze and some that have no glaze, are very thin and supple. Both types take the dye from the back quite well. Using a damp cloth on the front didn't bring up any dye, firm buffing didn't, neatsfoot didn't, a beeswax based conditioner didn't, only the Mop n Glo. I'd prefer not to have to use a respirator. All alternative suggestions appreciated.

Mop & Glo contains and ingrediant called Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether.

"Excessive inhalation of DPM vapors or mist may cause irritation

to upper respiratory tract. Symptoms of excessive exposure may be anesthetic or narcotic effects."

How exactly do you figure that Mop n Glo liquid acrylic is different than Resolene liquid acrylic? Just because one is marketed differently than the other doesn't mean the chemistry is not basically the same.

I see this all the time in somewhat specialized hobbies/trades, i.e leather work, wood work, shooting, etc. People tend to only focus on the suppliers of products marketed to the discipline they're engaged in, often not realizing that the exact same products, or products that do the same thing, are sometimes used for other disciplines or purposes and can occasionally be found at fractional prices to the specialized suppliers.

I'm just speculating here, but it would not surprise me if at some chemical plant somewhere they produced a big vat of liquid acrylic and sat around saying "We could sell this stuff as floor finish but people are only going to pay $4/qt. for that, but if we take some of it and label it leather finish, people will pay $25/qt. for it."

I'm not saying the stuff comes from the same place, I have no idea. But I'm highly suspect that there is some significant difference between the two.

I never said it was. I didn't compare the two in my original response. I just said Mop & Glo is for floors. I also gave the OP an INSTITUTIONAL alternative. But, you can see some major differences in the two products by following the links in post #10.

Y'all can use whatever you want for a finish. I really don't give a crap.

Edited December 22, 2012 by CountryTrash

[Tiara]

Wow, no wonder the stuff gets to me so quickly. I would have to leave the Y early the evenings they did the floors with it as I reacted so badly to it. I suggested they change to other products but no luck.

Thanks again to everyone for the information.

[Randy Cornelius]

Nothing like the smell of Neat Lac early in the mornings!!!. But it works great! But I do use a lot of Resolene and Tan Kote as a final finish. Used the Bee Natural stuff and it works Okay but have had some problems with it being plotchy esp if you let a drop hit the leather, found that if you put it on heavy at first you get better results but the stuff is expensive compaired to other finishes. I suggest that someone starting out experiment with different products and see what works best on the type of leather they use. I had more problems with finish with other grades of leather. But since I started using HO for just about everything the finishes have became more consistant. I think if you buy what ever leather is on sale or cheeper you will have more problems as the finish, dye and oils will react differently with different brands/manufatur of leather. Just my thoughts.

Randy

[electrathon]

RTC works well for holsters. It can be diluted with water (about half) and then the holster dipped into it. Pull it out and let it hang. Quickly blot off any excess and then let it dry.

If you want to swab it on, put it on very heavy first, then gently smooth it till it starts to get tacky. This will happen fast, so work fast. I mean fast, not pooping around, keep moving.