Finish Coming Off

[jforwel]

I have been using Fiebings antique paste, wiping it off and then spraying thinned Resolene with light coats. The problem starts when I hand stitch. Either from handling or just pushing the needles through and pulling the stitches snug the finish starts to flake off on the area around the thread.

I have read the finishing posts and it seems that maybe I shouldn't be using the antique for my color. I did not use a sealer first. I have RTC, Wyo-sheen, and Tandy Satin and Super Shene on hand.

I have used Tandy's antique liquid and their finishes without issue.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Art]

Stitching is about the most abuse you can give the leather. First stitch, then apply RTC as a resist where you don't want the antique to take. Let that dry really well and antique just as you did before, it won't antique where you put the RTC. Let the antique dry really well and buff off any excess dyestuff. Now apply the finish like WyoSheen. You could dye before stitching, but the finish always comes last.

Art

[jforwel]

Thanks Art, do you think I could use a deglazer on this project and re-do it?

[electrathon]

You will get a lot of answers on how to finish. This is what I do. Chan Geer and Jim Linell both do the same thing so I don't think I am that far off.

Tool. I then use Clear Laq /wyo-sheen on the whole piece and let dry. I then use Fiebings antique paste, followed by Tan Kote.

I usually finish before I sew or lace.

Aaron

[jforwel]

OK thanks, I think I will practice some knife and tooling work and experiment with your methods.

[Chief31794]

Jforwel,

I do it like Aaron and never had a problem. Most dying and finishing problems I've found relate to not enough drying time, you have to be patient. When you said the finish is "flaking" off, this indicates to me that you might be putting it on too thick, very light coats on finishing, repeat after drying until you get the finish you're looking for. Buff between coats, etc. If you're looking for a glossy finish, then I would do several very light coats of what ever finish you want to use, my favorite is Clear Lac, used it when it was Neat Lac and still use it today. I use it as a resist and as a final finish, however, light coats that are allowed to dry completely (at least 4 hours, 8 is better). You also mentioned that you maybe shouldn't be using the antique for your color and you mentioned Tandy, the Tandy EcoFlo antique gels will effectively dye a base color and provide antiquing, but they are a little unpredictable. I don't use the Feibings Paste Antique to do "coloring", if I want a base color other than pure antiquing, I dye that first, let it dry thouroughly, apply a very light coat of neetsfoot oil and let that dry thouroughly, apply Clear Lac (what ever resist you want to use), let that dry thouroughly, then apply the antiquing paste, work it in to the depressions, let it dry (oh year thouroughly), then I apply a finish in one or more very light coats and let it dry at least over night.

Sorry to ramble on, but hope this helps.

Chief

[jforwel]

You're not rambling Chief, well put and understandable, thanks.

j

[laifeng]

You're not rambling Chief, well put and understandable, thanks. http://www.amber-jewelry.org

[NVLeatherWorx]

I also finish in the same manner as Aaron and Chief and have been doing it that way for about 35 years with no issues (at least with the Fiebing's products, the Eco-Flo products have been major issues as they tend to rub off so bad that the end finish is not what was intended). Stitching and lacing is always last so as not to alter their final color through the finishing process. Key is as Chief said, drying time and patience. Let it dry at least 8 hours, 24 for final coatings to ensure that the full penetration and oxidation has taken place.

Good luck.