Tri Weave

[Bree]

I firmly believe that the problem is the plating. It removes the crispness from the tool. Sharp edges become rounded because the plating coats the edge increasing its size, rounding the edges, and reducing the fineness of detail. Given the plating, I don't think a Craftool can compete with unplated competitors. Remove the plating and its a new ballgame. My personal preference is for stainless steel unplated stamping tools.

[Razz]

I firmly believe that the problem is the plating. It removes the crispness from the tool. Sharp edges become rounded because the plating coats the edge increasing its size, rounding the edges, and reducing the fineness of detail. Given the plating, I don't think a Craftool can compete with unplated competitors. Remove the plating and its a new ballgame. My personal preference is for stainless steel unplated stamping tools.

You 100 percent about the plating Bree.

I worked at a plating shop, and companies wood resend there product cause of the lost of crispness in the details.

It's overplating, if the undercoating is too thick (copper & nickel) then you lose most details.

Companies have it done to compensate for the poor casting of parts... to fill nooks and cranies and make the tool or whatever part look

much better, more "attractive" once chromed.

[rickeyfro]

Has anyone ever questioned Barry King as to why he doesnt offer a tri weave?

[hidepounder]

Has anyone ever questioned Barry King as to why he doesnt offer a tri weave?

Self injuries resulting from Tri-Weave Syndrome are bad for business!

Bob

[Tkleather1]

I have seen Peter Main take a craft tool from the shelf, stamp an impression, in 3-5 minutes on his sandpaper pack modify it and start tooling that would make all of us drool.

Of course George Hurst will bash Craft Tools, he is a former Tandy employee who now has had to sell off Hidecrafter, but still remains an employee. I have some of Hidecrafters Pro-Series, they make great impressions, just don't use them too much as they are soft metal and will actuall deform in a short period of time. Everyone should use what they can afford. The more times you do the same pattern, it will get better, so comparing 2 items with diffrent tools done back to back will show improvement.

I turn wrenches for a living on frarm equipment, have tools from every company under the sun, they all put the bread on my table and allow me to be able to afford my hobby of leatherwork. Just loose a 35$ Snap-on wrench or a 5$ craftsman - witch hurts more?

I too am a wrench puller on heavy highway construction equipment and logging gear for the local CAT dealer. My question is where the hell do yo ufind a Snap-On wrench for 35 bucks the cheapest one I have is well over that. maybe my tools are larger I dont know. LOL

[ArtS]

Good info here. Thanks.

Yawl mentioned removing the chrome with a torch. How exactly should that be done and is that the best way? I have some tools that I'd like to do that to.

In Pete Gorrell's class a few weeks ago he taught us how to take some Craftools and modify then to work like much better tools but we didn't remove the chrome except where we were sanding and filing them.

Thanks,

Art

[hidepounder]

Good info here. Thanks.

Yawl mentioned removing the chrome with a torch. How exactly should that be done and is that the best way? I have some tools that I'd like to do that to.

In Pete Gorrell's class a few weeks ago he taught us how to take some Craftools and modify then to work like much better tools but we didn't remove the chrome except where we were sanding and filing them.

Thanks,

Art

I'd like to know more about this too, Art. I have modified a bunch of Tandy tools and did exactly what you said...I have just left them that way and don't really see a need to remove any other material. They don't look very good, but neither do the tools made from nails that I frequently use. Any time you apply heat to steel you risk altring the temper of the tool (not that it should be a concern with Tandy tools!). I'd like to hear more about modifying tools...great subject to explore!

Bob

[DaveT]

I've got a lot of tools from many makers (I measure my collection by the pound now, I lost count). Many of my tools I've made myself. I'd like to give you my opinion of tools.

First off, I agree that Tandy tools leave much to be desired. The steel is of low quality, and the recent vintages are not very good. Older Craftools are actually pretty good. The trick is finding the ones that work well. In my experience, the camouflage tools, mule foot, and seeders work pretty well. Bevelers, shaders, and other simpler tools can be modified to work pretty well with a few minutes work on some sandpaper, files, or stones. The basket stamps, and other complex stamps are beyond saving.

Barry King tools are a great value, and fantastic tools. Ellis Barnes/Hackbarth, very good tools. Bob Beard Pro Series, the best out there. Jeremiah Watt, great tools. Hidecrafter's Pro Series (The black chrome tools) are pretty good tools too. Any of the other makers, Gore, Wayne Juesuke, etc. all make nice tools, but I've not use them, just tried them out at shows.

Now, my own tools are a collection of mostly hand made stuff that I've made. Why? Because in my exploration of leather (I started 34 years ago) I've learned that in the past, it was a right of passage for an apprentice to make his own tools. Until the apprentice had his own tools, he worked for the master. Once he had his own tools, and his master's approval, he could be a journeyman. If the apprentice couldn't make the tools, he had to convince someone to sell him tools, or inherit them. So I decided to make my own, because I have files, time, and nails and bolts. Money, not so much.

There are some tools I can't make. Mostly basket stamps, borders, and geometrics. Those I've bought from Barry King. I think Barry's tools are a great value. I also love Barry's bar grounders.

You can do decent work with the cheap tools. You can do much better work with better tools. The problem I see is the cost. In our group in Spokane we teach a lot of newbies. We recommend using the Tandy tools to start because they are inexpensive (Ok, cheap). If you aren't going to get real involved in leatherwork then it doesn't make sense to spend a lot of money on hand made tools. Once you decide to pursue leather carving, then it's worth spending some money on good tools.

Bob Beard told me that you can do any style of carving using about 15 tools. Sheridan, Floral, Figures, etc. The trick is which(!) 15 tools. So you find your favorite style, then invest in the tools you need to do that. Use the cheaper tools for everything else. And when you don't like the way the tools you have work, grab a file, a grinder, and some sand paper and make 'em work!

If you're going to make your living using your tools, then just like a mechanic, buy the best tools you can. They will pay you back in time savings.

Dave T.

[David]

Excellent post and great information here.

I'll add my admiration for Barry King tools here too.

I really like them. As far as deforming Pro tools from HideCrafters...

What are you hitting them with? I use their pebblers ALL the time.... I like them. They sure

haven't deformed nor has the pattern lost it's crispness

David Theobald

Edited July 2, 2009 by David

[ChasCS]

Funny how things go on our luckiest days... A number of years ago, a friend called and said he found something at a local Pawn Shop that I really needed to go see.

He was in the pawn store talking to his friend, the store manager, when a customer walked in, with a medium sized box full of leather tools, he wished to sell. The store bought them for a very reasonable price, and my friend called me, and told me the manager would hold them in the back, for me to come in and have a look, before he put them out for sale to the public. I was there in less than an hour. The fellow was being very generous to me, being that Rick was both our good friend. I gave him a small profit, on his inexpensive investment, and I had myself a great buy. I was totally stoked. What a find... 

The other great part of that day, was going to Tandy Leather, where the manager at the time was also my good friend, & after sorting through all of my new and present tools, and taking the ones that were doubles or any which had rough edges or warn stamping areas, back to Tandy, and trading them in, for brand new tools. That was over 25 years ago, when the Tandy Leather tools were still of quite decent enough quality. 

The same goes for the awesome set of leather tools gifted to me, from a friend in SW Australia. Those tools were given to him 15 years ago, and he had never used them. Stored in a tool shed for all them years, then shipped up here to me, last month... ;-)

Most of them tools have no serial or part numbers on them, so, I'm not sure who made them.

I certainly can't complain about the high prices of leather tools, since getting so many of mine, for little more than a fine song...

La la, la la laaa!! Chuckles

 

Chas

[Jors]

On 16/08/2008 at 3:26 AM, rickeyfro said:

Is it just me or is it really hard to get a clean pattern with Tandy tri weave stamps? No matter how hard i try it seems the tool itself prevents a good crisp design. I know there has to be a reason for the major difference in prices between tandy stamps and other makers. Is the difference worth the price? Any suggestions on a good Tri Weave?

I found the same problem. I had to modify my basket weave stamps to get a better accuracy. The two sides of basket weave stamps of Tandy are normally different. The better quality stamps are almost unaffordable around here in SA, so I am thinking of making my own. I am going to try out of brass, but with the aid of a small milling machine.

[Rockoboy]

13 hours ago, Jors said:

The better quality stamps are almost unaffordable around here in SA,

Depending on what you call 'unaffordable', I would always recommend @arbalet12 for quality stamps that are a reasonable price.

Disclaimer: I do not have any experience of other quality stamp manufacturers. They may be similar or better price, but I do not know.