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Jarednem

Sharpening: Files, Stones, Cut And Grits?

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While reading "leathercraft Tools: How to use them/ How to sharpen them" by Al Stohlman it shows the shape of all the stones and files to use for sharpening each tool. It doesnt tell the reader what size, grit, cut (file), or type(file eg. swiss, Grobet, needle, escapemant). Does anyone know any of the specifics of what works best for sharpening leather craft tools like the v-gouge, stitch groove, edgers etc. thank LW

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In a nutshell, the grit is the number of cutting particles per inch. Start by thinking sand paper. A 8-grit would have 8 pieces of sand per inch, or 1/8 inch is the grit size. The finer the grit (i.e. larger number) the sharper the resulting edge. Coarser grits remove material faster and leave a rougher edge.

You want very sharp tools to cut leather without forcing the tool.

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In general 1200 wet/dry paper wraped over a steel wire (like a welding rod) is about right. You will likely have to follow it with 3200 and then strop it (use round lace with rouge on it). Only pull the tools back, do not push.

Aaron

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Thanx, do u anything about cut on files like 0-8? What would be the preferred sharpening tool to do a v-gouge or and stitch groover? File or stone? For the stitch groove, I guess a round 6-8 cut on file for inside and a fine stone for the outside? do they make a stone small enough for inside of a stitch groover? Also what website would be the best place to purchase both Shape sharpening stone and files?

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I don't really have an answer on file cuts, but a file is a very poor choice on sharpening. Anything semi-hard or harder needs to be sharpened on a stone and not a file. Sandpaper is the poor mans whetstone and it can be shaped over wood or whatever. If you really want stones look at a gunsmith site, they have a lot of small stone shaped for polishing inside hammer areas.

A stitch grover is sharpened on the outside. Drill a hole in a piece of metal and grind away to the edge of the hole and it is sharp. V gouge is sharpened on the outside.

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thanks for the input, ya Al's book says jewelers files and shape stones are used. Just bought so shape stone from Brownells

Edited by Jarednem

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Remember that book was probibly written 50 years ago. Techniques that were used then are considered dated by todays standards.

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Very True...lol! they probably didnt have 3200 grit sandpaper, heck i didnt even know it went up that high!

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It actually goes a lot finer than that if you really want to get it perfect. I remember the crappy sandpaper that my Dad used to use when I was a kid. By todays standards it is junk, but that is all they had so it seemed good.

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I will not repeat the good information already shared. I will tell you what I have and use in my little shop of horrors. I have a 250 grit King stone to remove heavy metal. I then jump to a 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1200 grit, 4000 grit and finally an 8000 grit stone. These are all water stones so there is no oil mess to deal with at the end. Now, there are stones that go much higher than 8000 grit, but at this height you are pretty much washing out the use of green rouge for stropping.

I recently started switching out my King water stones for DMT Diamond stones. The best benefit that I found has been that I do not need to pre-soak the stone or re-level them when they cup after repeated use.

I have also purchased a 1"x30" belt sander. I found a US supplier for AO belts ranging from 80 grit up to 1200 grit and a leather stropping belt. The same company has available an attachment that can lock in angles for certain sharpening of specific tools. I have tried this setup on my older dull kitchen knives (don't tell the wife) and it has work out better than expected. I have cut my fingers more then once in the kitchen by just touching the blade.

Finally, I have not had much luck with any type of files. With my "V" groover (hand tool adjustable?), I sharpen it by hand to include my "U" groover. You just have to do it carefully at a higher grit to prevent ruining the angle.

Just food for thought. Take everything you read here and play with what you have and learn. Good luck and Happy New Year!

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The words to google are 'slip stone'. Norton makes some good stones that are relatively cheap. Dan's Whestones are a cheaper alternative to Norton. If you do a lot of sharpening (like me) then you might want to invest in a set of soft/hard arkansas slip stones. I would avoid india stones because most leatherworkers keep the edges on their blades/tools and don't need to reshape a cutting edge.

On files -- I have used jeweler's files for edges and such. Unless you are creating a delicate or intricate edge from scratch, then I find that stones are faster. I think of files for shaping an edge and stones for sharpening an edge.

+1 for DMT Diamond Stones and Ceramic Stones. If you have the money, you will be happy.

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