Prefered Sewing Methods?

[kwelna]

Ok tapered the end of my threads and it did make a difference. Kind of a PITA (Pain in the ... ) though. It does make it easier to stitch in the long run. Basically you want to avoid cutting off any of teh cords of the thread. You just want to keep the lenght and thin each cord down about 50%. I get it now.

The light comes on albeit dimmly

Edited January 18, 2013 by kwelna

[Bryan M]

My head is swimming right now. Seems like there is to much to know. LOL. I've done a little practice with my ez stitcher and I think the stitches look alright for a beginner. I will go to the local store that has some Tandy supplies and see what their needles look like. I know they had them, I just don't remember if they are for hand stitching or using leather thongs. Failing that. What kind of needles would get the job done that maybe arn't made exactly for that purpose? Canvas needles ect?

[electrathon]

What kind of needles would get the job done that maybe arn't made exactly for that purpose? Canvas needles ect?

Go to the local sewing store and buy needles there. When you get home dull the tips of them on a whetstone. You do not want them to be sharp.

[Bryan M]

Go to the local sewing store and buy needles there. When you get home dull the tips of them on a whetstone. You do not want them to be sharp.

Ok so something about the size of a #0 harness needle then? And I would want something with a larger eye as well I would think. The stiching thread I have is quite a bit thicker than normal sewing thread.

[electrathon]

Ok so something about the size of a #0 harness needle then? And I would want something with a larger eye as well I would think. The stiching thread I have is quite a bit thicker than normal sewing thread.

Find the smallest needle you can get your thread through.

[billymac814]

I used to saddle stitch everything and used its strentgth as a selling point. Once orders picked up though I had to either get a machine or quit taking orders and now after machine sewing at least a 1000 holsters or so and not having a single one return because of broken thread I'm convinced its strong enough. Also like others have said the cement I use is doing more to hold it together than the stitching. I also used to go to great pains to either glue the ends of the thread or burn them and when I moved my shop I kinda got away from it and haven't had any problems because of it.

When I do saddle stitch now I do it with an awl and two needles and definitely taper the threads. All of the cords get tapered and inserted through the eye, you don't just cut a few cords off and insert the remaining or it can make a mess. It is a PITA though and even harder with pre waxed thread. Ohio travel bag sells pre tapered threads BTW. I tried them and they were OK but that's about it.

On repair work I will use a needle from a McKay stitcher, often called a Jerk needle or Hook needle and do a lock stich, this is similar to using one of those stitching awls but much easier especially if you're always using a different color thread. I only do this on repairs though and only if I can't get it on a machine.

I never got into short cuts about punching holes like using a drill press or drilling them, however I will admit that I would be tempted to do something if I had to handsew everything. I think I would choose the diamond awl blade in a non running drill press as this method would give the same results as I would get doing it with the awl.

[katsass]

From the grump -- again.

Bryan, you've asked a few questions and received more varied answers that you ever thought of. That's typical. Each of us has OUR way of doing things. The basic rule is: use the best equipment you can afford -- and practice, a lot.

That said, most of the diamond awls I see are too damned wide, and too damned dull. You'll need to learn how to re-shape one , and to sharpen it properly. Good harness needles are a must, in the smallest (thinnest) size you can work with easily --- I use #1 size needles. To try to use Grannie's sewing needles is a self defeating process. To find harness needles -- google "Harness Needles", you'll find purveyors of them all over hell and half of Texas. A good 'overstitch' tool is recommended, first to mark stitch length, and second, to 'set' your stitching when done. Practice and critique your work -- a lot. Mike

P.S. With a properly sharpened awl, you can (without too much effort) stitch things like this welt in one of my holsters. Those are layers of 7/8oz in the welt. (You need to work from both sides of the piece to align the holes)

Edited January 21, 2013 by katsass

[Bryan M]

Ok, I see what you mean there. The other day I was able to get into town and the local store, that happens to have some Tandy stuff, I got the stitching awl, over stitch tool, a swivel knife, and some needles. The needles are basicly upholstery needles. The exact same set I saw at a local super market but just in a Tandy package, and actually at the same price so I said what the heck and got them too. What I didn't see was the groover. Is that needed, or can you get around having one? I hate mail order. I would much rather just go to the store. Silly of me I know.

There were two types of awls, I didn't know which one to get so I got the one with the thin narrow leaf shaped blade that comes to a point. The blade is about 2+ inches long.

Byran

PS. Living in Central Alaska has its challenges, one of them being that there are very limited resources here. And prices tend to be much higher than the rest of the nation for just about everything. But when you include shipping it evens out when it comes to most items, usually. That is not always the case however. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and order leather, the closest place I've found happens to be the Tandy store in Anchorage. Which from what I've been reading is less than ideal when it comes to leather quality.

Long ps sorry bout that.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Bryan M

[billymac814]

You'll probably have to accept mail order soon. I'd be SOL without the Internet and mail.

You can get by without a groover, just make an indentation with a pair of dividers for now. You'll eventually want a groover. Surprisingly enough if you have a harbor Freight store nearby they sell a groover that comes with an edger and a gouge. I can't say how well they would work but I'd assume they are of very low quality but who knows, sometimes harbor freight surprises me.

Tandy usually sells leather in various qualities, the cheap stuff is low quality for sure, I never bothered trying their high quality leather as it is often more expensive than Wickett and Craig and HO.

Edited January 21, 2013 by billymac814

[Bryan M]

Nope no Harbor Freight. Closest one is almost 2000 miles away. I'm practicing and I'm admitedly pretty horrible right now. I would be shamed to show my carving and I havn't tried to stich yet. I have enough to get started though. I think I'll do some practice stitching tomorrow some time.

Bryan