Members ReneeCanady Posted January 21, 2013 Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 This SHOULD be easy right? No. I am having a hard time getting something to have that much of a drastic color difference as his flowers do in this pic. I have tried resisting and then dying over the entire project darker in color. I guess I don't understand how the dark gets in the groves/tooling if you have resisted it? I thought the solution was antique gel from tandy. I bought the med brown which was darker than I was looking for, but still, it didn't give me this result. Can someone help me with the trick please Quote
Members chancey77 Posted January 21, 2013 Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 The paste is much better than the gels. And having the right applicator of Wool scraps will help as well... Quote
electrathon Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 My guess is that the main brown background id brush dyed with fiebings dye. Let it dry. Seal the whole piece with neet laq. Antique it all with fiebings paste antique. Seal it with tan-kote. Quote
Members ReneeCanady Posted January 21, 2013 Author Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 Thanks all! I will give it a go! Quote
Members mototech7 Posted January 21, 2013 Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 Hi Renee where did you get that picture? Its amazing work! Quote
Members ReneeCanady Posted January 21, 2013 Author Members Report Posted January 21, 2013 From this site on my Facebook news feed. I love those color combo's! Quote
Members cjdevito Posted January 22, 2013 Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 You could get this effect with the tandy gel antique, if you really wanted to use that. Resist the floral carving and the basketweave, apply the gel. The gel dark brown is about that color when applied heavily to unresisted areas. Both the gel and the paste aren't really coloring the unresisted leather so much as accumulating/pooling in the cuts and tool marks. But also, with the gel especially you'll usually get some bleed through of the antique dye color into the resisted areas if you don't apply multiple coats of your resist. Quote
Members Feraud Posted January 22, 2013 Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 My guess is that the main brown background id brush dyed with fiebings dye. Let it dry. Seal the whole piece with neet laq. Antique it all with fiebings paste antique. Seal it with tan-kote. Excuse the silly newbie question but why seal the whole piece with neet laq before applying the antique paste? I assumed the neet laq was a final sealant? I know I am missing something important in this particular process! Thanks. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted January 22, 2013 Contributing Member Report Posted January 22, 2013 It looks like the area arround the floral and the strap have been dyed, not stained. But this is guesswork - probably best thing to do is ask the person who made it! Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted January 22, 2013 Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 Excuse the silly newbie question but why seal the whole piece with neet laq before applying the antique paste? I assumed the neet laq was a final sealant? I know I am missing something important in this particular process! Thanks. When you seal the entire piece with your finish coat, you're stopping the antique from coloring the leather. An antique is designed to sit inside the tooling and not actually color the leather. After you antique, you finish it again to seal the antique into the tooling, otherwise you risk it wiping out with use. You can use many different finishes for a resist. The two I use are either neatlac (clearlac now) or Fiebing's Resolene. I've also been hearing a lot of good things lately about RTC Sheridan Resist, so I've been thinking about giving it a try as well. So: 1.) dye 2.) seal with finish to "resist" 3.) antique 4.) seal again to protect the antique Quote
Members Feraud Posted January 22, 2013 Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 Ah, got it. Thanks for the explanation! Quote
electrathon Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 When you seal the entire piece with your finish coat, you're stopping the antique from coloring the leather. An antique is designed to sit inside the tooling and not actually color the leather. After you antique, you finish it again to seal the antique into the tooling, otherwise you risk it wiping out with use. You can use many different finishes for a resist. The two I use are either neatlac (clearlac now) or Fiebing's Resolene. I've also been hearing a lot of good things lately about RTC Sheridan Resist, so I've been thinking about giving it a try as well. So: 1.) dye 2.) seal with finish to "resist" 3.) antique 4.) seal again to protect the antique Very good explanation Quote
Members ReneeCanady Posted January 22, 2013 Author Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 Thank you so much everyone! I guess I was under the same impression as Feraud. I couldn't get it thru my head that if I actually sealed it how the antique would get in there Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted January 22, 2013 Members Report Posted January 22, 2013 Thank you so much everyone! I guess I was under the same impression as Feraud. I couldn't get it thru my head that if I actually sealed it how the antique would get in there Be sure to show us what you come up with Quote
Members mototech7 Posted January 23, 2013 Members Report Posted January 23, 2013 i just got some rtc yesterday! i did a test run and it seems so much easier to use than resolene, what i have been using lately! Quote
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