When To Use The Beveler?

[chriscraft]

Hi, I just started leather carving/tooling two days ago as soon as my new BK tools arrived in the mail.

The local Tandy shop personal doesnt tool leather so she was unable to answer my questions but recomended some of the Tandy books. My Grandfather was into this craft and left me some vintage late 50's Craftools & old Craftaide patterns for wallets/belts along with a bunch of rivets and snaps. I still need to pick up the rest of my Grandfather's old literature as I feel it's the same vintage as what Tandy offers today. Would prefer some newer Leather Tooling/Carving books if anyone has any good recomendations.

I'm a self taught artist so I decided to just dive into this craft and will be starting with custom work belts & suspenders. I plan to give away my first samples, at least till I improve.

Most of the tooling pictures i've seen here are not close up and I can't tell when the beveler is used when using the backgrounder or matter. So my question is, When using a backgrounder or Matter, Do I bevel my swivel cuts first? Chris

attatched is a picture of a freehand swivel knife cut skull using the new stainless steel Craftool-Pro with 1/4" angle blade on a scrap veg tan 7/8 oz. piece. I used the BK checked #0,#2 beveler then used a HideCrafter pebble matter.

[Cyberthrasher]

yes, for the most part you'll want to start with the beveler. This puts your background into relief and gives the artwork the 3d appearance.

As for the books, the one's that Tandy has are still valid so there's no real need to go looking for more. Pick up the figure carving and figure carving finesse books by Stohlman, as well as Peter Main's Australian Leather Carving if you want additional materials that will take you quite a ways. But, you seem to have a pretty good handle on things right now. Keep in mind, most of the learning material out there is geared toward the western toolers, but the concepts and techniques are the same and migrate over to the cool stuff as well

[Art]

You definately have the concept of bringing the subject to the foreground. Western carving is a little different, but not much. As far as books go, all the Stohlman stuff will be valid forever, also the other classic artists. Tandy doodle pages are also helpful and available from Tandy, but not free anymore. It is obvious that you have some art background, the piece looks good. I might have used a different background for the eyes and nose, but that is just me.

Art

[chriscraft]

Okay, Thanks.

As far as the background inside the skull. I hear ya, it was all I had to work with till I expand my tool selection. Sad excuse as it makes the piece look flat and 2D. Also not a great angle on that skull.

I'm also gonna take a stab at making my own tools out of SS bolts to get the effect each piece will require as I get more into this artform. Thanks for the kind words on my practice piece. Chris

[Cyberthrasher]

with a piece like that, I would have left the eyes and nose with no background. Just bevel them down to make the area behind the face look like it's empty. By backgrounding it, you made it look like the front of the skull is sitting there with nothing behind it. It still looks really good, just a bit of advice in thinking about the subject matter and letting it be your guide.

[chriscraft]

Cyberthrasher, here is a better one to break apart. Started this one today after your last post. It's still a work in progress and I'll have to come back and finish it in a few days as time permits. Again, still using scrap veg tan. Broke out Granpa's Old Craftool smooth bevelers and a few finishing nails for the smaller dots.

Would like to make a larger Pebble stone matter to use in the foreground under the skull to add a 3D effect and really make it pop. Chris

[Cyberthrasher]

And this is just your second piece????

The only thing I see is that you need a modeling spoon to round off the edges after beveling. But, that's minor when compared to the rest of the work. I love the look of smooth bevelers and how the really make a piece pop and look natural. You're rockin' it man!!

For a pebbler, I know some people grab a bit of wooden dowel and hammer the end into the concrete to make a nice tooling pattern in it. I just bought all 3 sizes of pebblers that are available and decided it works well enough for me.

Oh yeah, and usually you should go through and make all your cuts and then come back to start the tooling. It's not a hard rule, but once you get used to when you might want to hold off I'd get it all done first. Also, very the depths of your cuts to match the piece as it relates to the 3D depth. I think this is the lesson from Paul Burnett that really opened my eyes on thinking about the piece when cutting and tooling.

http://leatherworker...showtopic=19995

If you register here, there are some great free tutorials available. Paul passed away, but his site is still functional with lots of good resources.

http://paintingcow.com/content/index.php/publications/free_lesson_sign_up/

Edited January 29, 2013 by Cyberthrasher

[Cyberthrasher]

Ooops. The one I meant for thinking about the design was actually the swivel knife tutorial he has on his site once you sign up. Sorry about that.

[Bob Blea]

You are doing really well for your first attempts! It is very clear you already have some artistic skills and you are making good use of your tools already. Keep it up.

Bob

[chancey77]

WHAT THOSE GUYS SAID!!!!!!!!!

You got great instinct so just go with it and own it!

I cant wait to see you cranking out some guitar straps and motorcycle seats! This is going to be fun!

[Jazznow]

Your skill in this early Stage makes me Jealous....

[chriscraft]

again, thanks for the kind remarks. I posted an intro under " critique my work" and have posted the finished tooled skull practice piece with drawing layout there if ya want to see it. Chris