Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About chriscraft

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/12/1974

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milwaukee, WI
  • Interests
    Fly Fishing, Old Series Land Rovers and NOW This

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    day book covers
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

Recent Profile Visitors

5,755 profile views
  1. I know exactly what you mean by a yellow color not showing up when diluting honey or even saddle tan. One would think yellow was used to create these colors but it doesn’t separate back to a solid when diluted. I began airbrushing t-shirts in 1989. There just wasn’t much information on how to do it back then and most of the printed info would explain in what order to apply colors or even how much. I used transparent paints on a white background and I would always start with my warm colors first primarily due to only having one airbrush and cleaning it in between spaying colors was a pain.. so I would start with yellow, then swap to orange, red and so on all the way to black as my last color. it was very easy to overshoot (go overboard) when using the cool colors in this order because you just couldn’t see just how much color you were applying till it was a tad bit too late. the transparent colors were actually blending on the surface, my earlier work tended to be a little bit on the darker side of the color spectrum. Too much use of cool colors and too much black blending would be called “muddy”. Once I acquired a few more airbrushes and no longer had to clean between color changes, I began experimenting with how I laid down my colors. What I found was by applying my colors backwards... from darkest to lightest I could now see just how much pigment I was spraying on the surface and could stop before going overboard. It was weird at first looking at my work without the warm colors added but it would come together nicely once I was finished adding the warm colors and it stopped looking muddy from this point on. I just picked up some yellow and purple dye to practice laying down a traditional sunburst. A long winded explanation but I’ll experiment by following my old process of T-shirt painting and spray the yellow dye as my last color.
  2. I’m pretty sure I’m using the wrong colors as I’m not getting the results I’m after. I need to find a yellow dye to experiment with. I’m airbrushing in my base color, Angelus Honey as my center. Then using a diluted Fiebings Dark Brown that I fade in from the outer edge in towards center but not quite all the way in. Then using Fiebings Black lightly feathered around the outer edges. I am liking the way my brown and black turn out but just not liking that my “Honey” color isn’t looking so honey colored. I am airbrushing the honey color in heavy so that could be my issue. If this wasn’t on leather.. I’d start with a yellow center then fading in the honey color in followed by brown and black outer edges.
  3. I know Weaver offers the stainless steel tubular rivets but only in 1000 count packs. I’m only needing a handful ( about 40 to 50 pieces for a project) in 5/16” and 7/16” lengths. Also in need of about 20 Chicago Screws in stainless steel if anyone has any they would like to sell. chris
  4. finally had time to start on it
  5. Thanks... it’s a nice presentation case that I picked up used and I really didn’t pay much for it. It does make the belt look like it’s part of an exhibit. The belt will remain enclosed in this case as I’ll never be able to use it. It measures out to be a size 28” -29” belt and way too small for me. Must have been made for a very slim person.
  6. I picked up another enclosed display case for the belt. You weren’t able to get a good view of the belt while it was in the shadow box case. This new clear plexiglass case shows it off better and you get a view of the entire belt. I added a Ray Pohja doodle page copy for the background.
  7. I made these for a friend. Each year his department hands out a yearly pocket calendar that has the different shifts scheduled. It’s about the size of the field notes covers I’ve been making. The calendar is paperback and usually ends up getting torn up after months of use. These leather covers should protect it and at the end of the year, he can just refill it with the new calendar.
  8. Forgot to mention...... if I was giving this image to recreate on a field notes cover. I’d make work easier for myself by redesigning it so that it works with the few tools I have. I’d enlarge the badge so I can add a lot of detail since it’s the main focus. Somehow rearranging all the lettering so it fits inside the small space using 1/4” lettering. I understand no one wants their logo to be changed or messed with but you are only building a few small custom leather covers. You mentioned adding an eagle in there too. If redrawn and layed out correctly, it will look better than the original image.
  9. Brandsen, I replied to your pm about what tools I’m using and forgot to mention a swivel knife with hollow ground blade and hair blade. Your choice of going with Barry King for stamps and tools is good and even better once you figure out how to use them. I am making police and firefighter field note covers. I’m using about 12 stamps for most of my tooling along with modeling spoons. I use a 1/4” alphabet stamp set for most lettering and also hand stamp smaller lettering using a home made pointed SS rod with a 1mm flat point. This image you’ve provided will be challenging to hand tool it on a 4” wide cover. Will be even difficult for a beginner but not impossible. At this size, things are going to get pretty small so do it in steps to not get frustrated. my leather covers are 7.5” tall and fit a 4”x6 3/4” memo book/field note book. The standard thickness for leather covers is 4-5oz. I’ve used heavier 8oz. but makes for a thicker bulkier cover. Now I only use 5oz. for my covers and this includes the inside pockets too. It’s a preference on the officer as some want it built thinner. Have a paper copy printed with an actual size of your image on it. Study this and you’ll get an idea as to just how small of an area you have to work with. I’m assuming most or all of the lettering will need to be hand stamped using some small tool. Like I mentioned, I had to make a small 1mm tool and used it on this Fire badge lettering. Not impossible, just took a little figuring out. Chris
  10. Chuck, the belt is lined. The front side of the belt is filegree cut and inlayed with a dark colored lizard skin I believe.
  11. Finished my line drawing. Can’t wait to start tooling this project. I’m going to paint this one.
  12. For your use in building a firefighter radio strap, English Bridal takes alphabet stamps well. I found it hard to take a good impression when using a swivel knife and tooling saddle stamps. Much of the inner lighter color shows when doing this. At least it did for me and I wasn’t happy with my results. Some say it’s possible to tool bridal. i don’t buy English Bridal often and have only ordered a few straps from Zack White. I mostly tool and work with H.O tooling leather
  13. I was commissioned to build this cover for an Assistant Fire Chief. Hopefully he will like it as much as I did making it.
  14. Thanks for all the compliments. I’m really enjoying building these day book covers. There is something special about building a basic stationary item and using a little bit of my artistic ability to make these standard items stand out. Each piece will be unique and serve many years alongside the individual that owns it. I think I’ve found my new niche market.
  • Create New...