Members Red Cent Posted July 19, 2013 Author Members Report Posted July 19, 2013 I bought the same pot as BillyMac. I use liquid saddle soap (contains glycerin) and I do not have any more skipped stitches. I purposely sew a little slow. No deadlines. The thread goes into the pot at the point where the roll of thread sits. Inside the pot there is a post on the bottom with a hole to keep the thread submerged, comes out of the little hole on the other end, goes through the black spring on top and on to the normal places. Almost no friction or stress is put on the thread. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Trox Posted July 19, 2013 Report Posted July 19, 2013 Hello, I have a Fedrco Pro 200 and have used it for about 15 years. I use the lube pot continuosly filled with 100% pure virgin olive oil, won't stain the leather and when I am done I always oil with the olive oil also, won't rot stitches and in light coats I can get the color I want. Anyway, I do a lot of repair work, sometimes 3 to 4 sets of relined skirts a week, plu all the oddball dirty breastcollars, rotten headstalls that haven't seen oil in thirty yearss, etc. etc.. When doing repair work I always run one needle size bigger, make sure the lube pot is filled and get to stitching. I think using the lube pot all the time helps stretch out the time in between needle changes, repair work or new build. I recently purchased a cobra class 4 and set it up with lighter thread for headstalls and lighter tack work, it is a fair machine for the money, guess I am to darn picky, so.I have done some tweaking on it and think I have it sewing almost up to the Ferdcos standards but will be adding a lube pot next as soon as possible. Just my opinion, hope it helps. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to give me a shout. Jake VanHorn Saddlery Ogallala, Ne 308-284-9928 Hello Jake, I find your post very interesting. I have a 441 clone bought in Europe, because of its large needle system (794) it creates allot of heat when you speed up a bit. I have been using silicon lube and I do not like it at all, It is messy and do not mix with paint. I have considered building on an air spot needle cooler, but have not done it yet. I have also tried other kinds of leather oil, but it makes the thread stick too much to the metal and causes occasional (many) skipped stitches. That’s brings me to the original question, do you experience any stitch errors using olive oil. If so, is that the reason you use a bigger needle, to get closer to the hook. Anyway, I love using natural product like that; I will definitely give it a shot. Thank you Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members GerryR Posted August 7, 2013 Members Report Posted August 7, 2013 Being new at this, I have seen two different approaches to lubricating the thread, one lubes the thread just ahead of the needle, and the second lubes the thread, basically, as it comes off the spool, allowing lubed thread to pass through all the mechanisms, including the tensioner. Having lube pass through the tensioner bothers me, as it seems it would be contrary to the purpose of having drag on the thread for the tensioning. I also read that getting thread lube on everthing is not necessarily good. Like I said, I'm new at this, so where is the best place to lube the thread? Quote
Members GerryR Posted August 17, 2013 Members Report Posted August 17, 2013 Any input about my remarks above? Quote
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