Some Basic Beginner Questions

[captain]

Hey guys!

I've always wanted to get into leather working but just have never gotten the opportunity.

I am launching a clothing brand this year and I really want to work leather in in a few places.

Ideally I want to have small leather hang tags for the shirts, and I possible want to make a small amount of leather portfolios to sell.

I know very very little about leather working in general.

I got some samples from a supplier and they are all very lightly colored. (tooling leather)

I want to get that deeper, rich, "leather" look to these pieces...as well as a slight vintage feel.

What is the best way to dye leather? Can this be done naturally? I tried to apply some vegetable oil to a few pieces but it really didn't do anything.

Also, do you guys have any tips on wearing down the leather to give it a slightly vintage look?

Can you buy leather like this or is it mostly "raw"?

I'm sure I'll have more questions in the near future and I look forward to hopefully contributing as well!

Thanks in advance.

ps...Ideally I want something that will get richer and get a patina with more handling/use.

And here are a couple images of the general look I am going for:

Edited February 1, 2013 by captain

[JustKate]

If I understand your question about "raw" leather, I believe you're referring to what we call vegetable tanned (or "tooling") leather that you would use if you're planning to do any stamping or tooling, such as you show in your photos of the tags. The samples you show would have been stained and finished after the tooling is done, so that type of leather normally comes unfinished. You can get it pre-dyed from some suppliers - ask about drum-dyed veg-tan - but to get that aged "vintage" look, you'd still need to stain and finish it after the stamping.

For the hang tags - especially if they're going to all be identical - consider ordering a custom stamp, a clicker die, and a clicker press. They are getting more affordable all the time, and they'll save you a ton of time and money in the making of them.

For the folios and bags, if you're not planning to do any tooling (or, you have major parts that won't require it), you can consider a range of chrome-tanned leathers that come completely finished - chap & upholstery leathers, for example. These are more soft and flexible, and you can just sew the pieces together and you're done.

Really, there's more to it than that, but hopefully this at least answers a couple of your questions.

[captain]

If I understand your question about "raw" leather, I believe you're referring to what we call vegetable tanned (or "tooling") leather that you would use if you're planning to do any stamping or tooling, such as you show in your photos of the tags. The samples you show would have been stained and finished after the tooling is done, so that type of leather normally comes unfinished. You can get it pre-dyed from some suppliers - ask about drum-dyed veg-tan - but to get that aged "vintage" look, you'd still need to stain and finish it after the stamping.

For the hang tags - especially if they're going to all be identical - consider ordering a custom stamp, a clicker die, and a clicker press. They are getting more affordable all the time, and they'll save you a ton of time and money in the making of them.

For the folios and bags, if you're not planning to do any tooling (or, you have major parts that won't require it), you can consider a range of chrome-tanned leathers that come completely finished - chap & upholstery leathers, for example. These are more soft and flexible, and you can just sew the pieces together and you're done.

Really, there's more to it than that, but hopefully this at least answers a couple of your questions.

Sorry, yea I was referring to vegetable tanned, tooling leather.

Ya, for the hang tags I was thinking hand stamping them...but a press would probably be better. Trying to keep the initial cost of the launch down as much as possible, but I think that would definitely make things easier.

And I will look into pre-dyed leather for the folios (I do not plan on doing any tooling with those. I will have to start another thread on those once I start because I have a few more questions regarding them)

Is there any easy way to dye or age leather in general?

Thanks again!

ps...Ideally I want something that will get richer and get a patina with more handling/use.

Edited February 1, 2013 by captain

[Beaverslayer]

Aging leather can be done so many different ways, it all boils down to how aged you want it, and the amount of time/money you want to invest in doing it.

The best way to age it (once it is dyed) is to get an old clothes dryer...disconnect the heating element before using it. Gather up a bunch of small river stones (rounded edged ones...not sharp edged) and place your leather and stones into the dryer...turn it on and let it run for a while. Check every 10 to 15 minutes and you'll get an idea of how long you need to run it to achieve the desired effect.

Cheaper ways of aging leather is you can "Beat It" with a multitude of items usually found in any home or garage.

[JustKate]

Is there any easy way to dye or age leather in general?

Creating that aged look is not a very difficult thing to master, and there are numerous ways to do it, using either dye or stain ("antique"). In general, dyes are used differently than stains, where dyes are usually applied only to certain areas of your piece, and penetrate the leather fibers to color the leather. Stains or antiques are usually applied over the entire piece, and stay more on the surface of the grain and pool in any impressions or irregularities of the leather.

Beav's approach is a little different than mine, but we both agree there are many ways to do it.

Edited February 1, 2013 by JustKate

[captain]

Thanks guys!

Any recommendations on dyes or stains...or good resources for how to apply them, etc?

Also, are any of them "natural" or is it similar to a wood stain? For some reason I was always under the impression that that rich leather look was "natural" for some reason.

Thanks again!

[JustKate]

They're more similar to wood stains on the "natural scale". In other words, really not natural at all. A more natural method to color and age veg-tan leather is to leave it out in the sun for a few weeks, and maybe burnish it a little (rub or strike it firmly in a few places to create brownish spots), or similar to the way Beaverslayer suggests. Veg-tan turns brown with direct sun exposure. Also an item that is handled and exposed to elements and abrasion over time (like a saddle, a chair, or a wallet), will develop a natural burnish that is very appealing. These things take time, though.

As for dyes and stains, maybe a good starting point would be Fiebings products - dyes and antique paste. You can get them at Springfield Leather, Zack White, and other places. Then once dyed and/or stained, you always want to seal the color with a final finish of wax, lacquer, or acrylic. Fiebings Resolene seems to be a popular acrylic finish these days, although I mostly use a lacquer finish on my work. If you don't use any dye or stain, just a waxy conditioner will suffice as a finish.

[captain]

They're more similar to wood stains on the "natural scale". In other words, really not natural at all. A more natural method to color and age veg-tan leather is to leave it out in the sun for a few weeks, and maybe burnish it a little (rub or strike it firmly in a few places to create brownish spots), or similar to the way Beaverslayer suggests. Veg-tan turns brown with direct sun exposure. Also an item that is handled and exposed to elements and abrasion over time (like a saddle, a chair, or a wallet), will develop a natural burnish that is very appealing. These things take time, though.

As for dyes and stains, maybe a good starting point would be Fiebings products - dyes and antique paste. You can get them at Springfield Leather, Zack White, and other places. Then once dyed and/or stained, you always want to seal the color with a final finish of wax, lacquer, or acrylic. Fiebings Resolene seems to be a popular acrylic finish these days, although I mostly use a lacquer finish on my work. If you don't use any dye or stain, just a waxy conditioner will suffice as a finish.

I guess one of the reasons I'm concerned is I don't have a proper shop or anything...I don't really have the means to be working with a lot of chemicals.

I will look into it, and look into some pre-dyed leather as well.

For my hang tags I might just use regular veg-tanned leather. but for the folios I really want a different look

[Ferg]

You can get Chrome tanned leather with an aged look. Oiled leather comes to mind. You can actually make the lettering you wish to use with lead, don't anyone give me the "Lead Poisoning" bit, letter sets that are available on e-bay. Fake gold leaf is available at Craft Stores or you can get real Gold Leaf. Press the letter set into the Chrome tanned leather with the foil between, voila!! you have a beautiful imprint. You can actually press the letters with a simple clamp if you just wish to experiment.

The leather comes in various shades of brown and black if you wish the aged look. Chrome tanned leather is available in a multitude of colors.

ferg

Edited February 1, 2013 by 50 years leather

[captain]

You can get Chrome tanned leather with an aged look. Oiled leather comes to mind. You can actually make the lettering you wish to use with lead, don't anyone give me the "Lead Poisoning" bit, letter sets that are available on e-bay. Fake gold leaf is available at Craft Stores or you can get real Gold Leaf. Press the letter set into the Chrome tanned leather with the foil between, voila!! you have a beautiful imprint. You can actually press the letters with a simple clamp if you just wish to experiment.

The leather comes in various shades of brown and black if you wish the aged look. Chrome tanned leather is available in a multitude of colors.

ferg

Thanks!

I actually have a few old steel stamp sets I'd like to use. And I'm considering getting a few custom brass stamps made.

I will definitely look into chrome tanned leather and oiled leather.

On that note...does anyone know of a good place online to buy chrome tanned or other pre-dyed leather? Can't seem to find any suppliers that have anything other than regular vegetable tanned leather (and exotic leathers)

This is one good site I found http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm

but just curious if you guys have experience with others.

Edited February 1, 2013 by captain

[TwinOaks]

Look on the Springfield Leather site, and at the "Bag and Chap (and maybe upholstery)" leather. That is where you can find the chrome tanned leather.

[Cyberthrasher]

They also have lots of "miscellaneous" sections, or remnants and "gambler's choice" if you just want to get some to try out. Just go to "Leathers" on the side menu and take a look at all of the options there.