Making Sure Dye Won't Rud Off On My Thread

[J Hayes]

I've a customer that wants a black holster with contrasting white stitch. I dyed my horsehide with Fiebing's professional black oil dye and let dry 24 hours or so. Next I buffed it with a loose cotton buff on my buffing motor, jewelers type, 3450 rpm. I pressed pretty firmly. Am I on the correct path? I'll be stitching with Barbour's 7 cord white waxed with coad.

Usually I use black thread and dye when I'm done or with horse I leave it natural for the contrast with black stitching.

Thanks

Jeremy

[electrathon]

I would put your sealer on the leather before sewing and hopefully you did not yet punch your holes (I have had issues with color in the holes getting on the thread).

I think you are on track.

[J Hayes]

No holes yet, I stitch holding the awl and needles one hole at a time. I always stitch everything first then wet and mold, dry then seal.

[Dwight]

You may want to hold the stitching until after the molding.

I've had dye run in water.

Not so much with browns, . . . but when I get a black/white stitch order, . . . stitching is done just before the final, . . . final finish coat is put on.

YMMV, . . . but that is how I do it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[J Hayes]

I can't hold off on stitching, well some of it anyway, has a reinforced throat. Ugh, guess I'll just have to go for it.

[D Fingers]

In the future you could use vinegaroon just after you mold. Will not effect the thread in the least.

[J Hayes]

In the future you could use vinegaroon just after you mold. Will not effect the thread in the least.

Thanks, that was another question I had. You vinegaroon after everything is done?

Jeremy

[dickf]

If you use Angelus or Lincoln dye, there won't be an issue.

[J Hayes]

If you use Angelus or Lincoln dye, there won't be an issue.

Why does it seem nobody likes Fiebing's

[D Fingers]

Thanks, that was another question I had. You vinegaroon after everything is done?

Jeremy

Yes right after forming dip in vinegaroon, neutralize with baking soda rinse then double check forming set aside for drying. I have sometimes repeated the process to make sure I get it black.

[chiefjason]

Yes right after forming dip in vinegaroon, neutralize with baking soda rinse then double check forming set aside for drying. I have sometimes repeated the process to make sure I get it black.

And oil it. Groon dries out the leather over time. And the oil makes it blacker.

[SooperJake]

Watch your clear coat if you use Angelus. It WILL run into the white thread unless you use an airbrush. That's been my experience.

[dickf]

Why does it seem nobody likes Fiebing's

Because you inherit issues that you're describing. I dip holsters in black dye, dip in acrylic, and the thread stays bright white (same goes for brown leather, etc).

I don't see how you could properly form a holster if you sealed the leather first.

Edited February 5, 2013 by dickf

[J Hayes]

Because you inherit issues that you're describing. I dip holsters in black dye, dip in acrylic, and the thread stays bright white (same goes for brown leather, etc).

I don't see how you could properly form a holster if you sealed the leather first.

I use linen thread, so I'm sure my thread would dye too.

I seal very last thing, either mop n glo or beeswax neatsfoot oil mix

Edited February 5, 2013 by J Hayes

[dickf]

I use linen thread, so I'm sure my thread would dye too.

I seal very last thing, either mop n glo or beeswax neatsfoot oil mix

If you are saying that you stitch and mold BEFORE you dye, then of course the thread will get dyed.

My process goes: cut panels, dip in dye, glue, sand, stitch, mold, dip in sealer. Perfect white thread every time.

I only commented on the sealer-before-stitching because it was advice given to you in this thread and I don't see how it's possible.

Good luck!

Edited February 5, 2013 by dickf

[J Hayes]

If you are saying that you stitch and mold BEFORE you dye, then of course the thread will get dyed.

My process goes: cut panels, dip in dye, glue, sand, stitch, mold, dip in sealer. Perfect white thread every time.

I only commented on the sealer-before-stitching because it was advice given to you in this thread and I don't see how it's possible.

Good luck!

Thanks for clearing that up for me, not sure how I got lost. That's how I do it, usually use black thread though, and either dauber the dye or airbrush.

Do you hand stitch? What thread? Just curious.

Thanks

Jeremy

Edited February 5, 2013 by J Hayes

[RobDude30]

My basic method for holsters is as follows: cut, rough mold, glue, detail mold, edge, dye, 2 light coats of acrylic, stitch, final light coat of acrylic, polish with Kiwi neutral.

The sealing after the dye prevents any dye getting on the stitching. The final coat of acrylic seals the stitching holes. The polish actually dulls the finish to keep it from looking "plastic".

I hand stitch with waxed Irish linen, usually 7-cord on holsters.

[J Hayes]

This is what I'm making, can't do all the stitching at the end.

[SooperJake]

If you are saying that you stitch and mold BEFORE you dye, then of course the thread will get dyed.

My process goes: cut panels, dip in dye, glue, sand, stitch, mold, dip in sealer. Perfect white thread every time.

I only commented on the sealer-before-stitching because it was advice given to you in this thread and I don't see how it's possible.

Good luck!

No buffing?

[dickf]

No buffing?

Well, that was the abbreviated process. Buffing after dye takes maybe 20 seconds per panel. There's little to no excess afterwards.