How Do I Line Up Stitch Holes With My Diamond Stitch Chisel?

[apriori]

So I got the craftsha 2.5 diamond chisel and am having trouble lining up the diamond pattern on the two pieces of leather I'm stitching. When I make the holes, I punch them from grain to flesh side making the diamonds face \ \ \ . But very soon i realized when punching both pieces like this the diamonds overlap like this \ /. I found that I can just punch one of the pieces from the flesh side out to the grain but the punch leaves a pretty unsightly gash.

I tried all sorts of combinations, so I come to you pros for advice. Do i just stick with punching one piece of leather through the flesh side or is there a way i can punch both pieces through the grain side and have my stitch diamonds line up? or do people just sew the leather with the diamond holes overlapping like this \ /

[mikesmith648]

try punching both pieces at the same time

[apriori]

I tried that but it still causes me to make the punch from the flesh side on the bottom piece leaving me with those gnarly exit holes

[Hombro]

I have one of those diamond stitching chisels and I glue both sides first before punching them on the grain side.

[bluesman1951]

Pictures would help . If you are bottoming out your chisel you have damaged the points. This makes ugly holes . Time to strop your chisel and use a little glycern before you punch the holes .

[electrathon]

it is really a pricking iron, not a hole punch. Mark the holes by driving it part way in. Use your awl to poke the holes.

[apriori]

it is really a pricking iron, not a hole punch. Mark the holes by driving it part way in. Use your awl to poke the holes.

Yeah. This would definitely make the holes cleaner.

But would I still have to mark the stitches on the flesh side? Is there anyway around working on the flesh side?

[electrathon]

You only mark the one side. Push your awl through carefully watching the exit to make sure it is straight on the exit.

[Dwight]

You can also use the iron like electrathon said, . . . to mark the holes, . . . put a very thin piece of cardboard under your piece, . . . and go through with your awl.

Then when you turn your product over, . . . you only have a little hole where the tip of your awl came through, . . . you can then go back the other way with your awl and you holes will look really nice.

THAT takes a bit of practice though, . . . knowing by feel, . . . "I got through", . . . and quitting that hole, . . . going to the next.

You also want to remember that if you want your product to last a good long time, . . . . you don't just sew it, . . . you also glue the pieces together before you do any punching and sewing.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Matt S]

I agree with the gentlemen above; don't try to punch all the way though, the tool is largely for marking. Punch on the 'best' side -- the one that will show most. For a case this will be the outside. The diamond holes will help guide the awl as you stitch, making everything nice and neat. Don't gouge a stitch groove when using this tool; a groove pulls the stitches into a straight line whereas a pricking iron creates the 'toppled domino' effect.

To line things up on the back side, of course you should glue first as already mentioned. To help each awl hole be in line, you need to have a sharp awl and a stitching clamp of some sort. Cutting a groove on the backside or even just scribing a light line helps you to know when it's going okay.

[Pablo27]

Hi all, just looking at Matt S.'s post and I am a little confused ( not unlike many other times) anyhow in the first paragraph he says not to make a stitch groove and the next paragraph he says to make one. What am i missing here?

[Matt S]

Sorry Pablo, perhaps I can explain myself a little better.

Stitch grooves are only necessary when you need to pull the stitches flush with the leather, where it would otherwise rub. Stitch grooves have the added effect of pulling all your stitches into a straight line. When using a pricking iron (as they are called over here) on ungrooved leather the stitches are proud of the surface, and look like a line of toppled dominoes. I like this look, but it's largely aesthetic preference. For instance on a knife sheath I would mark the top side of the leather with my pricking iron and groove the back side. This protects the stitching on the back side of the sheath from wearing in contact with my jeans but also means when I am stitching I can watch for the tip of the awl to make sure it is in line before stabbing all the way through. This helps to keep the backside of the stitching neat.

[Pablo27]

Thanks so much, really appreciate all of you.

[Stewart]

Thank you also. I haven't used my chisle yet and that bit of advice

will be used.

Joe