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How To Make A Leather Portfolio/envelope (Hand-Stitched)


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Posted

Hi guys.

I am very new to leather.

I want to make some simple, high quality leather portfolio/envelope/clutch pieces.

However, Ideally I would like to not have to use a sewing machine (1. because I want a more hand-done, authentic look, and 2 I don't have an industrial sewing machine ;)

So I was wondering what the best way to approach this would be.

I was thinking a tonging chisel/punch like this: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3008-00.aspx

Is there a better way? Is there a trick to lining it up so that the holes match on both sides for sewing?

I will be making my own template, but here is a rough idea of what I am looking to make: http://www.swellmayde.com/2011/03/diy-envelope-clutch.html

I'll also need help with correct thread, stitches, etc. But I'll take it one step at a time.

Thanks guys!

(I will most likely be using a 6oz weight leather)

Posted (edited)

Captain,

That's not the chisel you want. If you are looking for an alternative to using a stitching awl, then you want a Diamond Shaped Chisel. Tandy sells them as well. This is what they look like. http://www.tandyleat...s/88044-06.aspx.

I would get a 6 prong and a single prong http://www.tandyleat...s/88043-00.aspx

They come in three different SPI configurations.

The first one is the six prong and does about an inch of length at a time the other is to place holes that are offset due to not quite matching up (avoid that as much as possible, but it still happens), I also use a two prong for going around curves.

The thonging chisel is used to make slits for lacing. The diamond point is for sewing.

Hope that helps,

Chief

Edited by Chief31794
  • Members
Posted

Captain,

That's not the chisel you want. If you are looking for an alternative to using a stitching awl, then you want a Diamond Shaped Chisel. Tandy sells them as well. This is what they look like. http://www.tandyleat...s/88044-06.aspx.

I would get a 6 prong and a single prong http://www.tandyleat...s/88043-00.aspx

They come in three different SPI configurations.

The first one is the six prong and does about an inch of length at a time the other is to place holes that are offset due to not quite matching up (avoid that as much as possible, but it still happens), I also use a two prong for going around curves.

The thonging chisel is used to make slits for lacing. The diamond point is for sewing.

Hope that helps,

Chief

Thanks! That definitely helps (shows how much I know!)

Is there a trick for getting the holes on both sides to lining up perfectly when making holes with the chisel?

Posted

Thanks! That definitely helps (shows how much I know!)

Is there a trick for getting the holes on both sides to lining up perfectly when making holes with the chisel?

Nope, best to glue the two sides together temporarily and punch through both pieces at the same time. Use a stitch groover (also available from several places) glue just the edges together with either rubber cement or contact cement, or a good leather cement. I use tanner's bond white leather glue for this then clamp the pieces together. The tanner's bond gives you some working time to align the pieces, so let it set in the clamps for at least an hour. If the edges come out a little uneven you can sand them lightly to make them neat and aligned, it also removes any glue residue from the seam.

Chief

Posted

Thanks! That definitely helps (shows how much I know!)

Is there a trick for getting the holes on both sides to lining up perfectly when making holes with the chisel?

Yes, glue it together first.

Tom

Posted

I mentioned the three types of glue used most in the post above.

Chief

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Posted

There's a coincidence... I made an A4 sized one today...

It's only really two pieces for the main body. I pricked holes in the front part, then glued it to the back with PVA just to hold it while I punched through and stitched.

post-38532-0-60884900-1360274758_thumb.j

  • Members
Posted

There's a coincidence... I made an A4 sized one today...

It's only really two pieces for the main body. I pricked holes in the front part, then glued it to the back with PVA just to hold it while I punched through and stitched.

post-38532-0-60884900-1360274758_thumb.j

Very nice!

A4 as in a4 paper size?

Mine will be similar but I plan using old buttons as the "clasps"

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Posted

Thanks. Quite pleased with it as It's only my 4th project so far. The leather should darken with some conditioner and over time.

Yes, A4 paper. I used a bigger A4 folder to get the right size, so it wouldn't be too tight.

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