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spooky

Help! How Do I Put A Blade In My Strap Cutter? And Then Put It Back Together?

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Okay, doofus newbie question. I boight a wooden strap cutter before Christmas, but life got busy and it got put aside. I know that it came with instuctions on how to put a blade in (didn't come with a blade in), but i've managed to "file" the instructions in a very safe place.. ie I cannot find them! I have managet to pull the strap cutter apart (perhaps I shouldn't have!!!!), so know I have two separate wooden pieces, and a round metal disc thingy, that fell out, that should go "somewhere"! I'm sure it is the sort of thing that once you have done it once, it's easy, but I cannot figure it out.

So, once you have all finished laughing and splerking into your coffee, this newbie would be very grateful for some simple, clear instructions.

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pictures on the way :)

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Step one: The round metal thingy goes here (sounds like a good term to me) and is used to keep the crossbar solid with pressure from the main thumbscrew. Make sure your blade is on the side of the handle that has this round cutout on the side.

post-22094-0-50603700-1360731352_thumb.j

Step two: The blade goes here in the slot that's at the 0 mark on the ruler. It should go BEHIND the screws. These screws hold the blade in place and at the same time that keeps this end of the crossbar set at the proper thickness. You'll need to loosen that top blade screw in order to adjust the thickness. It can be really hard to get into the slot, so take your time and don't cut yourself.

post-22094-0-87282400-1360731353_thumb.j

another view to show where the blade sits.

post-22094-0-65336500-1360731355_thumb.j

This is the thickness adjustment for the otherside of the cross bar. You need to make sure that the thickness is equal across the entire length in order to get a nice clean cut. You will need to loosen 1 blade screw, this little thumbscrew, and the main thumbscrew in order to adjust the thickness.

post-22094-0-08388300-1360731357_thumb.j

Springfield leather has a good video on their youtube page that shows all kinds of stuff about this great tool :)

http://www.youtube.com/user/SpringfieldLeatherCo

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Thank you! I've manages to get the two wooden pieces back ogether... yay! So much easier when you have the orientation right and they fit! I assume that the divot thing on the metal thingy sits facing the screw? Also, does the blade go across both the skinny wooden bits? Off to find a screw driver.

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Yipee-yii-ya!!!!! I think I got it! One of the slots was so narrow you could barely see it, so struggled to get the blade in, but now in. Once you have the instructions, not that hard. Off to try cutting some scraps then watch that video.

Thank you sooooooo much for helping out a newbie. You may now return to splerking your coffee ;)

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Thank you! I've manages to get the two wooden pieces back ogether... yay! So much easier when you have the orientation right and they fit! I assume that the divot thing on the metal thingy sits facing the screw? Also, does the blade go across both the skinny wooden bits? Off to find a screw driver.

Yes, the blade should go through both pieces with none of it sticking out. I haven't had the plate out in a while, but I'm pretty sure there's a little dimple on the side that is pressed in with the screw, and the other side has a larger flat surface that contacts the crossbar. Just in case, all those pictures will expand to full screen if you open them up.

Yipee-yii-ya!!!!! I think I got it! One of the slots was so narrow you could barely see it, so struggled to get the blade in, but now in. Once you have the instructions, not that hard. Off to try cutting some scraps then watch that video.

Thank you sooooooo much for helping out a newbie. You may now return to splerking your coffee ;)

Nah, it's too late for coffee.

Almost bedtime, so you are splerking free :)

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And be careful how you handle your strap cutter. The exposed ends of the blade are hard on your fingers. I glued a small leather flap across both ends of the blade. Can still replace or move the blade by folding the flaps back. A little less blood on the strap too!

Tom

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And be careful how you handle your strap cutter. The exposed ends of the blade are hard on your fingers. I glued a small leather flap across both ends of the blade. Can still replace or move the blade by folding the flaps back. A little less blood on the strap too!

Tom

How long's your blade? I know some people leave a little exposed to pull up a fresh section, but I just put the whole thing in there so it's all covered by the wood.

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I could have used this when I was putting mine together a few days ago as the instructions that come with them are not really clear at all. I called Tandy but when the guy that answered the phone started using words like dohickey and thingy, I just hung up on him. From the instructions posted here I seem to have installed the blade correctly.

I should have just checked here from the start.

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I should have just checked here from the start.

I just posted those last night as I was finishing up some pictures for customer updates. The first time I put the blade in mine I had put it in front of the screws because it was so tight I couldn't get it to go that far back. The second I tried cutting a strap the blade popped out. I ended up prying the slot open a little with a small screwdriver and using that screwdriver to push the blade once I got it started.

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Yeah I saw it was posted yesterday but you did a very good job at explaining it unlike the shop that sold it to me. My problem was that I could not get the blade to go into the bottom part, and I wasn't even sure if it was supposed to go there. I went to Youtube but only found videos of them being used, none of it being set up, so I just kept messing with it and finally I got the blade to slide in the bottom and was able to cut a strap I will use for my first camera strap.

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yeah, they could definitely use a hair wider slot on that. It holds the blade securely, but not very fun to get in there.

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How long's your blade? I know some people leave a little exposed to pull up a fresh section, but I just put the whole thing in there so it's all covered by the wood.

The blade is just slightly over 1", maybe a 64th if I could read it! When set to cut a 3 to 4 oz strip and with the blade flush with the bottom side, the top of the blade is proud by 1/8". When adjusting for thinner leather, if you accidentally place your finger or thumb above the blade (when the end is buried, not visible) and squeeze, you suddenly have a nice clean cut when the blade rises above the surface. Possibly the newer models have thicker guide bars, then there would be less chance of cutting yourself since the blade would be fully buried.

Any how, it hasn't got me since adding the little leather flaps!

Tom

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Any how, it hasn't got me since adding the little leather flaps!

Tom

put those photo skills to use and post some pictures :)

I think they might have made the crossbar bigger since I adjusted it for some thick paper once and don't remember the blade sticking out, but that was such a quick little use I don't really remember how it looked.

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I have my choice of strap cutters and still use a wooden cutter for some things. I like them for most chrome tans and soft leather, and narrow straps from latigo and veg tan. Places that are just a little tougher with a draw gauge or plough gauge. I use razor blades in mine, and strop them before I put a new one in. I have used these for up to skirting on one that tracks true (they don't all do that). The razor blades will definitely stick up. I put a new blade flush to the bottom and tighten the bottom screw. Then I squeeze the bars together and take a pliers and break off the excess that sticks above the top bar. I leave the top bar screw a little loose to allow some slide on the blade for adjusting to thickness.

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I leave the top bar screw a little loose to allow some slide on the blade for adjusting to thickness.

Do you ever find it opens up on you at all while you're pulling the leather through? I usually slip it over the end of my leather and then make sure the thickness is set right from there, but I also occasionally leave marks because it's not quite loose enough.

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The only time I have it open up is when the front screw wasn't tight. I use a pair of pliers now and haven't had a problem. That puts enough hurt on the bars they aren't moving.

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put those photo skills to use and post some pictures :)

Here are the pics.

post-16698-0-87542500-1360884736_thumb.j

post-16698-0-28061600-1360884760_thumb.j

post-16698-0-08080100-1360884778_thumb.j

So if the blade sticks out, either cover it to protect your fingers, or do as Bruce says and snap off the excess so it will be buried below the top of the bar.

Tom

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Your crossbars do appear to be quite a bit thinner (from memory since I'm at the office right now). I know some people who would still be able to cut themselves there, but that should do a fine job at preventing the common sense folks from an accident ;)

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Your crossbars do appear to be quite a bit thinner (from memory since I'm at the office right now). I know some people who would still be able to cut themselves there, but that should do a fine job at preventing the common sense folks from an accident ;)

Yup, the leather flap reminds you there is something under it that you need to watch out for.

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