cmantz Report post Posted March 1, 2013 I have been using Ever Tack from SLC to glue my lining to my leather. Seems to work good. But I am out and I need something TODAY so I can't order. Any suggestions on what to buy that might be available locally (Hobby Lobby for example)? I tried regular contact cement and that didn't work at all. I was able to pull apart the two layers of horse butt that I glue and put in my heat press (not turned on of course) overnight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted March 1, 2013 LePages or 3M contact cement, either water based or toluene type solvents should work for you. Follow the directions. Roughen the surfaces to be joined if they are smooth. Apply to both surfaces. Let dry until almost no tack, them carefully position the two parts together. If you accidentally get things misaligned, they may stay like that forever. Pulling it apart will damaged the surfaces. Press or use a roller to ensure full contact adhesion. There is another thread about contact cement that you should look at too. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=46282&hl= Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted March 1, 2013 thanks for the post. I tried some Weldwood and after setting in my heat press all night to be good even pressure, it was still able to pull them about. HOWEVER, I don't think I let them dry. Also, I am gluing two horse butts together and it really seemed to soak in very quickly. I reglued them again, let them stand for 10 mins and then put them together. We shall see if this works better. Now, I just need to figure out how to get two layers of horse butts (around 5 oz. each ) to fold over (ie: the tabs on my bronc halters) without cracking the surface of the leather. Suggestions??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted March 1, 2013 Now, I just need to figure out how to get two layers of horse butts (around 5 oz. each ) to fold over (ie: the tabs on my bronc halters) without cracking the surface of the leather. Suggestions??? Shape the pieces together, folded, then glue in the same position. Gluing flat then folding over normally won't work because the inside piece needs to be shorter (has a shorter radius). Possibly if you dampen the outer layer, it may stretch, but you are still going to get wrinkles on the inside, and it won't want to stay folder over. If it was iron or such, I'd say heat it on the side you want it to stretch on, or the side you want it to wrinkle on, then bend. But that's out of the question here. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnv474 Report post Posted March 24, 2013 By now you probably have some glue but my understanding is that PVA glue is quite good. This is commonly used as wood glue and, I believe, Elmers white glue just like in school. It dries strong and is water-soluble for cleanup. Most of the time the glue is just to hold in place before sewing anyway. I have been using white glue after using several others, and like it well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted March 24, 2013 The weldwood contact cement used to be good, however, the last can I bought, I believe they have changed the formula, it, as you said, wouldn't hold together. Hope it works better on counter tops than it does on leather or there is gonna be some mad wood workers around here. General warning, Weldwood is out as a leather glue. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted March 24, 2013 Chief, I use the Weldwood "Gel" for leather, haven't used anything but water based contact for laminate for years. I normally allow the glue to dry for at least 20 minutes with a 70 degree temp in my shop. I guarantee you the leather is not going to pull apart without damage UNLESS it is two pieces of chrome tanned glued face to face. The glue will just about peal off completely when you pull it As stated above, we use the glue to "tack" the leather together so we can sew a nice even joint. I would like to be able some day to sew as fast as some of the oriental ladies do in clothing factories. LOL ferg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted March 24, 2013 Yellow woodworking glue dries hard, not flexible. So when you bend the leather items glued with it, you will hear the glue cracking. White glue dries flexible. So will hold better where you expect flexing to take place. Woodworkers don't normally need their items to flex. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted April 1, 2013 I use the 3-M 77 spray adhesive for liners. the barge cement works well too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites